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      06-25-2009, 05:08 PM   #67
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It is fine metal wire to my eyes. I didnt open that section, so I'm not sure what else is in there. I just see some metal hairs poking out.

[UPDATE; was able to reach in and feel some of them today, I think they are more a fiber of some kind.. fiberglass perhaps?!]

Sorry folks, no update tonight. We couldn't get together.
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      06-26-2009, 03:09 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subw00er View Post
It is fine metal wire to my eyes. I didnt open that section, so I'm not sure what else is in there. I just see some metal hairs poking out.
OK thanks...I was just wondering if modifications could be made to that area that would make the exhaust a little louder. Given that S/H std exhaust boxes are available quite cheaply I thought perhaps it might make for a better sound at a low cost without too much effort.
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      06-26-2009, 06:16 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants View Post
OK thanks...I was just wondering if modifications could be made to that area that would make the exhaust a little louder. Given that S/H std exhaust boxes are available quite cheaply I thought perhaps it might make for a better sound at a low cost without too much effort.
try it!!
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740
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      06-27-2009, 05:15 AM   #70
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try it!!
Heh heh...I would if I had the faintest idea what I was doing!!
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      06-28-2009, 05:26 PM   #71
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      06-28-2009, 06:34 PM   #72
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One cut-out actuator failed this weekend at the track. It was 105 degrees, and I was running about 5mpg (hot exhaust), it probably cooked. Glad they have a lifetime warranty

I was talking to a corvette tuner while hanging out between sessions, and he said it's common for the actuators to die prematurely when placed too far upstream (heat).
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      06-28-2009, 07:57 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jml View Post
One cut-out actuator failed this weekend at the track. It was 105 degrees, and I was running about 5mpg (hot exhaust), it probably cooked. Glad they have a lifetime warranty

I was talking to a corvette tuner while hanging out between sessions, and he said it's common for the actuators to die prematurely when placed too far upstream (heat).
Wow you only got a few months. The Kreissieg system is looking better and better. OP: You might want to consider a vacuum system! More complex but probably worth it.
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      06-28-2009, 09:53 PM   #74
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Quote:
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Wow you only got a few months. The Kreissieg system is looking better and better. OP: You might want to consider a vacuum system! More complex but probably worth it.
I think you're average hardparker is not going to have any trouble with the elec. cut-outs. It was really hot today, I think this may have been a freak incident.
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      06-29-2009, 07:42 AM   #75
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Ya, I'm not too worried about the actuators. If they fail I just get a new one installed. There wouldn't be any down time and they would take 10 minutes to swap out. Plus, vacuum systems dont allow partially open/closed operation.. they are all on or all off. Additionally I'm not too keen on running a vacuum line from my engine - seems like a warranty breaker there.
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740

Last edited by Subw00er; 07-07-2009 at 09:57 PM.
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      06-29-2009, 12:44 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jml View Post
One cut-out actuator failed this weekend at the track. It was 105 degrees, and I was running about 5mpg (hot exhaust), it probably cooked. Glad they have a lifetime warranty
The heat into the valve is much more related to how hard you drive rather than the external temperature. Thus I am thinking the valves, in the location you used are going to get too hot under track use. Do keep us posted on your replacement schedule.
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      06-29-2009, 06:24 PM   #77
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Quote:
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The heat into the valve is much more related to how hard you drive rather than the external temperature. Thus I am thinking the valves, in the location you used are going to get too hot under track use. Do keep us posted on your replacement schedule.
My point was that it was hot outside under track conditions with a near overheating motor, that's about as bad as it will ever get.
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      06-29-2009, 07:29 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorFunkyPants View Post
I'd give my left nut for an exhaust if it could make it sound like this car:
If you have ever heard one in person, they really are sick. I did the NYC Time Square Midnight run and heard on in person......so NASTY....You need an engine that revs over 10,000 RPM to get that sound.
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      06-29-2009, 08:56 PM   #79
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Quote:
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If you have ever heard one in person, they really are sick. I did the NYC Time Square Midnight run and heard on in person......so NASTY....You need an engine that revs over 10,000 RPM to get that sound.
Nah, unless you can get a really extreme chip to raise the redline, OEM redline is at 8200 and I'd bet this specimen is also. What you do need is very lightweight, race inspired V-10 with minimal balancing inertia, a light flywheel and the muffler removed. I'm fairly sure the last thing is the only mod this guy did. Either way, it is SICK, SICK, SICK sounding.
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      06-29-2009, 09:20 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2 View Post
Nah, unless you can get a really extreme chip to raise the redline, OEM redline is at 8200 and I'd bet this specimen is also. What you do need is very lightweight, race inspired V-10 with minimal balancing inertia, a light flywheel and the muffler removed. I'm fairly sure the last thing is the only mod this guy did. Either way, it is SICK, SICK, SICK sounding.
He has straight pipes on and I've loved this video for some sound. Best sound EVA, hands down!
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      07-04-2009, 07:21 PM   #81
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Ok, we had some time tonight to work on it, and we made great progress. Here are the pics..

This is the rough cut for the driver's side valve. This was super complicated to get right, and this side required a compound bend unlike the passenger's side single bend.


Parts are cleaned up, ready to weld


Spot welding them together to test fit


Test fitting looks almost perfect!




Just grinding a little at a time to get it perfect.


This shows the passenger's side before making the fish cut. We can make this bend in one piece.


Just getting a feel for how it will look and checking angles. The pipes are too long here. we trim them in the next shot


Test fitting


Obligatory awesome sparks picture - trimming the excess from the pipes.


Removing the flashing/rough edges by hand.


Now Sam's welding the inside.


Cleaning up the weld work - notice the nice bare weld near his thumb.


Closeup of the center weld - no sanding to make this look pretty, this is just how good Sam is!


Test fit inside the exhaust. Spot on!
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740

Last edited by Subw00er; 11-13-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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      07-07-2009, 09:44 PM   #82
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Wink

This is a quick check with the valve roughly in place. The valve sits below the centerline weld of the exhaust. Clearance is 1/2-1" away from the exhaust to allow for easy bolt connections later.


Now we're spot welding the passenger's side.


Next time we have to open the bottom side of the exhaust to allow us to weld in there, pop the holes in the exhaust tubes and then weld it all back together! We're going to try and work on it tomorrow. Stay tuned, we're getting close!!

On my end, I have to fab the wireless remote into the headlight switch (hopefully there is room in there), then I have to grab + power for the valves, and run the wiring. If anyone knows a good place to run the wiring to the battery or grab a 12v+ source back there, please let me know. I haven't sought a factory grommet out yet, but I'd hate to drill my trunk.

We have about 2 working-days left until it gets installed and I was chatting with a friend today and looks like I have a dyno near me. I'm toying with the idea of getting open vs closed runs. I would guess that it would be similar to the other valve-based dynos, but perhaps this would be closer to stock because I retain more of the stock piping (most dump right before the muffler). This is good because the other valve systems tend to loose HP down low, and gain some up high. I'm not going for HP with this MOD btw, just controllable sound. I figure it must gain something though because I am bypassing a bend, the split at the tips and the muffler section.
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740

Last edited by Subw00er; 11-13-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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      07-08-2009, 06:33 AM   #83
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Good to see this coming along. It looks great so far!
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      07-08-2009, 08:06 AM   #84
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Wow, very well done. Those welds are so nice. When can I order one
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      07-08-2009, 08:19 AM   #85
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We are still talking about making a few for sale. There are two unknowns:

1. Will it work as expected? - no drone, no change in oem feel/sound, but controllable/loud noise when open
2. Can we charge enough to make it worth our (ahem, Sam's) while? (parts costs is around $900, then shipping, then labor. Initial #'s come back at about $3-3500 to make it worth the effort, and we would have to work out a core charge or system for creating them. We obviously cant buy new oem exhausts to mod, so we'd have to either do one at a time, or get a group buy of some kind where we mod a few at once. I'd think turn around time might be a few weeks). If people are interested in this, let me know.


Thanks for all of the nice comments so far!


.
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740

Last edited by Subw00er; 07-09-2009 at 09:28 AM.
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      07-08-2009, 08:57 AM   #86
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cant wait to hear this thing
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      07-08-2009, 10:33 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiokenM3 View Post
cant wait to hear this thing
Me either!!

We were able to get together again tonight to work. We were hoping to finish today, but had some trouble with the welding in such tight spots. Looks like we'll have to get another type of tip to reach some of the spots behind where we can see. Sam had to weld blind in some spots.

Onto the pics!

These are the two valve ports that we're going to weld in today.


Sam is cutting out the access ports on the bottom of the exhaust now to gain access to the underside of the tubes for welding. We chewed through four cutting disks to get them open. The M3 exhaust is tough!


Just a test fit and view from the bottom side. Note we'll have to do a little bit of filling in there against the outer wall - not a big deal but doesn't make for the easiest of welds! We had to widen this hole because the valve tube wouldn't slide in after we welded it together - it was just hitting one of the interior tubes and wouldn't let us rotate it in. We'll do a little "bridging" here to fill it, but hey now we know for next time...


After marking around the tubes, Sam starts plasma cutting the interior stock tubes.


We turned the plasma torch way down to avoid over cutting. The walls were very thin as you can see. After this, we cleaned up the holes in preparation for welding.


The is the driver's side aligned, taped up and ready for tacking into place.


Tacks are done.


Passenger's side too


Looking good!


This is just a final test fit with the valves before welding. We aligned the gear reduction and motor to the back so it is less noticeable. I'm still deciding what to do about tips for the valves. Part of me wants to leave them without tips. It might look cool - you'll be able to see them from the rear perhaps when opening. If we do make a tip, it will be very shallow and point as downward as possible.


This is the driver's side. Note that the valve motor and gear reduction enclosure points the wrong direction. I will be taking this apart to flip the valve 180 degrees. Race Ready Performance says this is OK to do as long as I use Loctite when putting it back together.


Now Sam is welding the tubes on. We're in the final throws now.


You can see how tight it is in there between the pipes. This is why we need to get a different tip that is angled and will allow us to get into those super tight areas. Sam said this is one of the more difficult weld jobs he has done - he cant move, he cant see and the angles are weird! He commented he also liked to weld this sort of thing with Argon gas so there is less slag inside and it generally makes welding easier. This would be hard to do because the muffler section of the exhaust is not sealed and thusly we could not pressurize the tubes with argon.


Sam is welding up the outside to make it air/water tight again. This was sort of tricky to weld because of the double wall and the gap we needed to bridge. Sam was not too happy with the results, but I think it looks great.


Tacked and ready to go..


Looking good!


This is where we had to fill the gap. Looks pretty good considering. It will look a lot nicer after we clean it up with a wire brush.


Sam's well worn gloves appear to be caressing something as they lie on the table.


Thats it for now. Enjoy!
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DON'T BUY Race Ready Performance electronic cutout valves. Here's why: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...40#post9589740

Last edited by Subw00er; 11-13-2010 at 12:07 PM.
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      07-08-2009, 10:45 PM   #88
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