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      07-01-2014, 02:56 AM   #1
downtowncb
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DIY: Motor Mount Replacement

The following is how to replace your worn out motor mounts on an E9x M3 using just basic tools, two floor jacks, and some 4x4s. Sorry I didn’t get photos of every step, but hopefully you can get the idea. The OEM mounts are part number 11812283798.

1. Pop the hood and remove the airbox. We need to remove this because it is the first thing the engine will contact when raised up in the engine bay. The lower half is only held in by the two screws near the driver’s side fender.



2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels and then place a jack under each jack pad behind the front tires and raise the vehicle. Once the tires are off the ground remove them.


3. Remove these fender liners at the rear bottom of both wheel wells.



4. Under the car, remove the black felt plastic piece covering the transmission, and remove the three bolts holding the front black felt to the skid plate. Picture borrowed and cropped from EAS.



5. Remove the 6 bolts holding the skid plate on, two of which are covered by the front black felt, but you can get to them by pulling down the front felt a little.


6. Remove the nuts from the top and bottom of both motor mounts. You can reach in the hole in the inside of the fender to the top of the mounts.


7. There are a total of 8 bolts holding the K member to the frame. Remove the two rear most bolts on both sides.


8. Stack the 4x4’s under the oil pan and then very slowly lower both jacks a little at a time until the engine is resting on the 4x4’s. Continue to lower the jacks about an inch, paying very close attention to the engine in the engine bay, stop lowering before the top of the intake manifold contacts the aluminum strut bars. You should see that the engine has separated from the top of the mounts at this point, but not enough to remove them. Alternatively, if you have access to an engine stand you could make this process much easier by just lifting the engine by the lifting ring on the front of the engine.


9. Now back the four bolts remaining in the K member out approximately 1”. This should allow you enough wiggle room to lift the mounts out and pull them out the side holes. It is very tight here, and you will have to back the screws in the K member most of the way out to get the mounts out of the hole.





1” gap between the K member and the frame:


10. Place the new mounts in the lower seat on the K member making sure to rotate them so the key pin on the mount lines up with the alignment hole on the K member. Screw on the lower nut attaching the mount to the K member.

New mount going in:




11. Tighten the four bolts in the K member; while raising, guide the top stud of the mounts into the holes on the motor brackets. Reinstall the four bolts that were removed from the rear of the K member. First tighten the M12's to 80 ft lbs (108 Nm) and then the two rear stretch bolts to 41 ft lbs (56 Nm) plus 90 degrees.


12. Using the jacks, raise the vehicle back up so that it is holding the full weight of the engine. Install the nuts on the top stud of the mount and tighten them to 41 ft lbs (56 Nm).


13. Reinstall the remaining components in reverse order.


This is how worn mine were after 70k miles:


Last edited by downtowncb; 01-10-2015 at 12:40 AM.
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      07-01-2014, 10:50 AM   #2
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Very nice!! Thanks so much for doing this, it's going to be useful for tons of members (luckily had mine already replaced for free)
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      07-01-2014, 01:17 PM   #3
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No problem, happy to share. This forum has provided a ton of useful info to me, so trying to give back a little.
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      07-15-2014, 05:03 PM   #4
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Wow thank you so much for posting this. I just bought an e92 with 72k miles and in PPI it said it would need new mounts ASAP and that it would cost ~$700 parts and labor, so I'm more than happy this is sunday project worthy.
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      07-17-2014, 02:54 AM   #5
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Psh $700, that is why I do as much as I can myself. I know owning an M is an expensive endeavor, but I would rather save the money for fun stuff. A pair of mounts was ~$140 shipped from BMW of Morristown, cheapest OEM parts I've found.

https://www.trademotion.com/storefro...&siteid=214320
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      07-17-2014, 11:10 AM   #6
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Thanks for posting this, OP. Curious, how did you tell your mounts were worn before you decided to replace them? TIA.
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      07-17-2014, 04:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_H_E92_M3 View Post
Thanks for posting this, OP. Curious, how did you tell your mounts were worn before you decided to replace them? TIA.
You're welcome.

Just found out visually, I had the wheels off doing some work and I could see torn rubber through the little hole into the engine compartment behind the wheels.

See this thread:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=988055
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      08-29-2014, 05:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downtowncb View Post
You're welcome.

Just found out visually, I had the wheels off doing some work and I could see torn rubber through the little hole into the engine compartment behind the wheels.

See this thread:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=988055
Gotcha. Thanks again!
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      12-24-2014, 05:54 PM   #9
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Nice write up and helpful. I just changed my motor mounts today. I found your write up after I started my procedure and write up so I'll include my approach here as well.


M3 Motor mount change:
Evidently the motor mounts on the M3 should be considered a wear item and particularly if you track your car a fair amount. I have nearly 80,000 miles on my car and plenty of track use so it seemed like a reasonable thing to do. I replaced my motor mounts with Bimmerworld high performance street mounts. Quality of the item appears to be just like OEM and is supposed to be more durable.

Overall, not a difficult project but you’ll need some oddball sockets that many of your typical metric sets don’t include like a 16 mm socket, preferably a short one as you don’t have much room to get at the upper nut on the motor mount.

Tools / supplies needed
Patience – needed for all BMW repairs.
16 mm socket and 16 mm combination wrench
Torx, reverse (female) style which I don’t have, used a 3/8” 12-point socket
3/8” and ” drive ratchets
Small allen wrench for the fender liner bolt

Start by jacking up your car, you’ll need 2-3’ under the car to maneuver around, though you can do 90% of the job from the side through the fender, less than that and you’ll probably be pretty miserable. Remove the front wheels, remove the aluminum cover plate that covers the oil pan/sump as well as the two very bottom plastic fender liner covers (they make the 90 degree turn at the bottom) so you have access to the rear most sub-frame bolts. The two flat fasteners on this plastic liner loosen by hex wrench and are easy to remove once you loosen them a few turns.

This may not be necessary but I loosened the steering rack because I didn’t want any stress on the rack, (torx bolt) and you’ll need a 16 mm combination to hold the nut on the top of the steering rack bolt on the passenger side. On the driver’s side there’s just enough room for the combination or use a small 3/8” ratchet and 16 mm socket on the driver’s side to hold the upper nut while you loosen the torx bolt. Don’t remove the nuts just get it a bit loose so there’s no stress on the rack when you loosen and lower the subframe (again this might not be needed but I didn’t want to take a chance on the hard lines).

If the bottom of you car is grungy then spray the upper motor mount studs with WD-40 or some other lubricant as the studs probably will have junk on them, clean this off as best you can. The driver’s side mount is tighter and harder to get at, be careful of the wired connection on the driver’s side. You don’t need to remove it but you don’t want to damage it either. I found the best access through the driver’s side fender, same on the passenger side but there’s more room and even adult sized hands are fine. Also, don’t loosen the top nuts on either side motor mount too much or you won’t be able to remove your ratchet. If your ratchet gets stuck then use a long, flat blade screwdriver to pop the socket off the nut and you should be able to turn the nut off the rest of the way by hand.

Once you have the motor mounts loose or even with the nuts off (it's not going anywhere) then you need to support the motor with a floor jack with a piece of wood under the sump. I raised the floor jack so that the motor was raised approximately 1/4".

Remove the two rear most subframe bolts and loosen the front two, the middle one right next to the mount can probably be removed too. I didn’t raise the motor up but perhaps ” as you’re still connected to the trans plus you have all the lines coming from the back. You’ll need to finagle the motor mount out of its position but with a little leverage down on the subframe you can make clearance to remove the old mount and replace it with a new one.

Make sure the locator pin fits into its hole on the bottom side of the mount. Start the nuts top and bottom on the motor mount and then go around and put all the subframe bolts back in and tighten. Then you’ll spend another 20-30 minutes if you just have regular tools tightening the top nut on the motor mount as there’s very little room and you can only move the wrench a few degrees at a time. Make sure everything’s tight, put the plastic fender corners back on, tighten the steering rack if you loosened it and then recheck everything one more time before you admire your work.
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      12-24-2014, 06:25 PM   #10
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Do you have any noticeable NVH at idle with the Bimmerworld street mounts? I tried the Rogue mounts and removed them due to added NVH that I did not want in my entirely street car, and installed fresh Corteco stock mounts (Corteco makes the BMW mounts).
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      12-24-2014, 06:36 PM   #11
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Don't know yet, I'm in the middle of a DCT trans fluid change and I'm waiting for a part from the dealer so it will be a few days before I know. From what I understand it's a firmer mount and will transmit a bit more vibration, but that some of the stiffness and vibration will go away over time. We'll see.
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      01-05-2015, 01:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb
Do you have any noticeable NVH at idle with the Bimmerworld street mounts? I tried the Rogue mounts and removed them due to added NVH that I did not want in my entirely street car, and installed fresh Corteco stock mounts (Corteco makes the BMW mounts).
I can answer this as I just installed the bimmerworld mounts yesterday. Yes, they add nvh at idle and low rpm's. I'm very sensitive to adding noises but I actually like these. You can feel a more direct mechanical feel to the V8 now. Even at startup it sounds a bit more raw. My orig mounts were in bad shape so the car feels much better now.
I'll report back if the idle smooths out as I rack up some miles.
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      01-06-2015, 06:17 PM   #13
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I just want to add the info here. If you loosen the subframe bolts, the torque for the 6 M12 (non-stretch) in front (including 2 that are slanted) are 108 Nm. The 2 rear-most ones M10 are stretched bolt. The torque values for these 2 M10 are 56 Nm + 90 degree. 45 ft-lbs are NOT enough for these bolts to tighten up the subframe and the last thing you want is for the subframe to shift around on you. Just FYI. Cheers.
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      01-09-2015, 06:52 AM   #14
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thank you and the OP for the info, do you happen to know the torque value for the nuts on the motor mounts themselves?

thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by e92zero View Post
I just want to add the info here. If you loosen the subframe bolts, the torque for the 6 M12 (non-stretch) in front (including 2 that are slanted) are 108 Nm. The 2 rear-most ones M10 are stretched bolt. The torque values for these 2 M10 are 56 Nm + 90 degree. 45 ft-lbs are NOT enough for these bolts to tighten up the subframe and the last thing you want is for the subframe to shift around on you. Just FYI. Cheers.
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      01-09-2015, 12:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonardo629 View Post
thank you and the OP for the info, do you happen to know the torque value for the nuts on the motor mounts themselves?

thanks
The motor mounts nuts (1 top and 1 bottom) are both 56 Nm.
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      01-10-2015, 12:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92zero View Post
I just want to add the info here. If you loosen the subframe bolts, the torque for the 6 M12 (non-stretch) in front (including 2 that are slanted) are 108 Nm. The 2 rear-most ones M10 are stretched bolt. The torque values for these 2 M10 are 56 Nm + 90 degree. 45 ft-lbs are NOT enough for these bolts to tighten up the subframe and the last thing you want is for the subframe to shift around on you. Just FYI. Cheers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e92zero View Post
The motor mounts nuts (1 top and 1 bottom) are both 56 Nm.
Edited the original post to include those values. Thanks!
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      01-10-2015, 05:01 PM   #17
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np and yw.
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      10-22-2015, 12:41 PM   #18
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Thanks for posting this. Just did this and the transmission mounts yesterday. It was very helpful. Took less than two hours to do both working at a steady but not fast pace.

Engine mounts were collapsed and cracked at 69k miles. Car has never been tracked. Transmission mounts looked like new and probably did not need to be replaced but was easy since I was already in there. I'm glad I checked it out however as one was the upper nut on the mount and the other nuts 3 were barely finger tight. Not sure how that would have happened but fortunately the transmission brace was torqued down properly.
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      10-31-2015, 08:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urnzvay View Post
Thanks for posting this. Just did this and the transmission mounts yesterday. It was very helpful. Took less than two hours to do both working at a steady but not fast pace.

Engine mounts were collapsed and cracked at 69k miles. Car has never been tracked. Transmission mounts looked like new and probably did not need to be replaced but was easy since I was already in there. I'm glad I checked it out however as one was the upper nut on the mount and the other nuts 3 were barely finger tight. Not sure how that would have happened but fortunately the transmission brace was torqued down properly.
I did my engine and transmission today and my transmission mounts looked brand new but my engine mount was completely split in half at 43k miles 5k have been boosted.

Be careful when tightening the transmission mounts. Not much torque required.
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      11-12-2015, 03:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettfordE92 View Post
Wow thank you so much for posting this. I just bought an e92 with 72k miles and in PPI it said it would need new mounts ASAP and that it would cost ~$700 parts and labor, so I'm more than happy this is sunday project worthy.
Can you tell me if you had any engine vibrations or how did you figure you need a new set of months?
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      11-12-2015, 03:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
I did my engine and transmission today and my transmission mounts looked brand new but my engine mount was completely split in half at 43k miles 5k have been boosted.

Be careful when tightening the transmission mounts. Not much torque required.
Did you have any vibrations from the engine?

How hard was the DIY with these instructions?
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      11-12-2015, 03:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbozz
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettfordE92 View Post
Wow thank you so much for posting this. I just bought an e92 with 72k miles and in PPI it said it would need new mounts ASAP and that it would cost ~$700 parts and labor, so I'm more than happy this is sunday project worthy.
Can you tell me if you had any engine vibrations or how did you figure you need a new set of months?
On cold starts the car would shake like crazy, I know they always do that a little bit on cold startups, but it was really bad. And every once in a while I heard something similar to what the 6mt guys hear when their mounts are bad, a kind of grind that would happen on a shift if the trans and motor weren't lined up. In any case, they needed to be replaced as you can see.
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