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      02-15-2009, 12:09 PM   #1
V1.47fan
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I replaced my stock PS2's with Bridgestone RE-01's.

The Bridgestone RE-01's are holding up pretty good, at 40 psi front and 36 psi rear cold,there's almost no tire rollover.
I highly recommend em for people who don't want the hassle and cost of having a set of dedicated track wheel/tires.

It's not hard to ruin Michelin PS2's especially the front tires on the E92 M3,the RE-01 gives you better performance and hold up pretty good,wearing evenly and they're also just as quiet as the PS2's.

I got 245/35-19 front;275/30-19 rear,yes it's a compromise 265's all around would've been ideal.

I Also did the camber pin removal (madrussian M3 DIY) so I got about -1.6 deg neg camber at the front wheels on stock springs.

My first choice would've been Dunlop star spec Z1's but they don't come in 19's and the RE-01's is not that far behind in performance and durability better than PS2's tho.
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      02-15-2009, 08:15 PM   #2
JAJ
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Are you using them for auto-x or road course?

I have a set of RE-01R's in 265/35x18 that I've used for road course track sessions for a couple of years, first on an E39 M5 and now on my M3. I found that they're great for the first five laps or so then they get greasy. You have to keep the pressure below 35 pounds or they get even greasier.

They look like they'll wear forever (sigh) and the wear is super even. By the way, I've had two separate installers cursing like sailors with them - apparently they're brutal to install or remove for some reason.

They're great tires but they're not comparable to an R-comp.
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      02-15-2009, 08:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
Are you using them for auto-x or road course?

I have a set of RE-01R's in 265/35x18 that I've used for road course track sessions for a couple of years, first on an E39 M5 and now on my M3. I found that they're great for the first five laps or so then they get greasy. You have to keep the pressure below 35 pounds or they get even greasier.

They look like they'll wear forever (sigh) and the wear is super even. By the way, I've had two separate installers cursing like sailors with them - apparently they're brutal to install or remove for some reason.

They're great tires but they're not comparable to an R-comp.
AX,R-comp are better it's just I hate swapping wheels. There's not much out there in 19's.I ran Yokohama Neovas on my 335i,liked em a lot. I think the RE-01's are a good alternative to the stock PS2's.
It's better than the risk of running out of tire during an event,before I changed my PS2's they looked pretty bad.

Yes they tend to get greasy after a few runs or laps.After a year or two their grip significantly decrease but that's with any tire.
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      02-16-2009, 01:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V1.47fan View Post
It's not hard to ruin Michelin PS2's especially the front tires on the E92 M3,
I agree with this. On a tight track with hard breaking zones it is really easy to ruin them. My fronts wore out before the rears. PSCs did much better on the stock rims obviously.
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      02-16-2009, 08:56 PM   #5
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that psi is quite high

i have them on my e46 m3 and run 33 front 30 rear w/no TC on

great tire tho
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      02-16-2009, 09:03 PM   #6
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Y r u guys running more psi on the front then rears? I always thought the rear should hold more then the front.
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      02-16-2009, 09:17 PM   #7
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when you disable traction control you run lower PSI

i was told the reason you do this, when you disable traction control, the lower psi would result in less inflated tires for you to gain more traction when your rear tires are spinning looking for traction.

the way i see it, when you drive on sand, u lower your PSI so you have more of the rubber on the ground, resulting in better traction - since there is more surface area between tire and ground.
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      02-17-2009, 11:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKumarM3 View Post
when you disable traction control you run lower PSI

i was told the reason you do this, when you disable traction control, the lower psi would result in less inflated tires for you to gain more traction when your rear tires are spinning looking for traction.

the way i see it, when you drive on sand, u lower your PSI so you have more of the rubber on the ground, resulting in better traction - since there is more surface area between tire and ground.

It really depends on the track and your suspension settings. Lower pressures result in additional sidewall flex, which can help rotation. In autocross this can be very useful. You can go pretty low with little danger and might consider using a pyrometer to make sure you're getting a full contact patch. At high speed this can be very dangerous because the flex can cause the tire to overheat and fail. You still want to rotate on certain fast corners, but you sidewall flex can make it too unpredictable at high speed.

I suspect that the 40 in the fronts is a little high, unless you're not able to dial in enough negative camber. Check with a pyrometer for even contact.

Dave
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      02-20-2009, 06:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcstep View Post
It really depends on the track and your suspension settings. Lower pressures result in additional sidewall flex, which can help rotation. In autocross this can be very useful. You can go pretty low with little danger and might consider using a pyrometer to make sure you're getting a full contact patch. At high speed this can be very dangerous because the flex can cause the tire to overheat and fail. You still want to rotate on certain fast corners, but you sidewall flex can make it too unpredictable at high speed.

I suspect that the 40 in the fronts is a little high, unless you're not able to dial in enough negative camber. Check with a pyrometer for even contact.

Dave
You guys are right about the front tires psi,I have a higher psi because the e92 is somewhat heavy,with lower psi around 35 on a tight AX course you might see excessive tire rollover.
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      02-20-2009, 07:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthirtyfizle View Post
Y r u guys running more psi on the front then rears? I always thought the rear should hold more then the front.
I run higher psi up front to also keep understeer to a minimum.
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      02-21-2009, 11:16 AM   #11
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Almost forgot,wheel hop decreased significantly depending on the launch of course very little to none a huge improvement over the PS2's.
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      03-17-2009, 02:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V1.47fan View Post

I Also did the camber pin removal (madrussian M3 DIY) so I got about -1.6 deg neg camber at the front wheels on stock springs.
http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_camber.shtml

Is this the DIY you are talking about?
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      03-18-2009, 04:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnell325 View Post
http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_camber.shtml

Is this the DIY you are talking about?

Yep!
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      03-18-2009, 07:30 PM   #14
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you want to find the optimum hot pressure that gives the best traction - then tune by adding or decreasing front to rear to get the desired balance. for track reducing pressure for less traction and for autocross increasing pressure for less traction.
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      03-18-2009, 09:03 PM   #15
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you want to find the optimum hot pressure that gives the best traction - then tune by adding or decreasing front to rear to get the desired balance. for track reducing pressure for less traction and for autocross increasing pressure for less traction.
I agree with this good advice, in general; however, for autocross, particularly with wide rims like 10" or so, then there are times when I'll drop the rear pressure to make the car rotate more easily under trail braking, even as low as the low twenties. With stiff sidewalled, R-compound tires and wide rims, then appropriate pressures are considerably lower than with the stock rims. So, the fronts might be at 32 and the backs at 23 on particularly tight autocross courses.

No one should just jump to the pressures that I just mentioned. You move up and down, progressively, starting at safe, conservative pressures. There are lots of things to consider, including tire stiffness, wheel width, camber settings, etc.

Dave
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