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      12-13-2008, 12:22 PM   #1
GregW / Oregon
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SST brake lines

Stoptech now has stainless lines available for our cars. These are good because they are plastic covered to reduce the risk of fraying from rubbing. Picked them up from Zeckhausen ($55 front, $54 rear). I'll probably remove the CDV when I do the lines.

http://zeckhausen.com/BMW/E92_M3.htm
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      12-13-2008, 12:48 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
Stoptech now has stainless lines available for our cars. These are good because they are plastic covered to reduce the risk of fraying from rubbing. Picked them up from Zeckhausen ($55 front, $54 rear). I'll probably remove the CDV when I do the lines.
I installed these last summer and the pedal firmed up nicely. I'd found on the track that heel-toe was a harder than it needed to be because the brake pedal would move quite a bit as you modulated the brakes. It felt like it was never in the same place twice. With the Stoptech lines the pedal was repeatable and firm - shifting is a lot easier.

That said, the front brake hoses are long, so there's more opportunity for them to flex and soften the brake pedal. The rears are short, so changing them might not be so noticeable.

The other change I made at that time was to Castrol SRF. I'd been using Motul RBF 600 in other cars but I've been happy with the Castrol.

I thought there was consensus that the M3 didn't actually have a CDV?

By the way, did both kits come with flat washers for the hard line bracket? Mine were early production and didn't have the washers, but I had four from another car that I used. I can see them in the photo for the rears, but not the front.
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      12-13-2008, 12:54 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
I thought there was consensus that the M3 didn't actually have a CDV?
+1
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      12-13-2008, 01:31 PM   #4
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CDV, I think the M3 clutch is awesome the way it is. Kills my previous TL
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      12-13-2008, 02:47 PM   #5
GregW / Oregon
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CDV

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
I thought there was consensus that the M3 didn't actually have a CDV?
Maybe I'm not keeping up--point me to the evidence, please.
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      12-15-2008, 01:11 AM   #6
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The e9x m3 does have a cdv and removing it does make a difference. Clutch feels a lot better with out it.
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      12-15-2008, 11:18 PM   #7
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I had those on my STi and liked them - no problems.
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      12-15-2008, 11:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singletrack View Post
I had those on my STi and liked them - no problems.
Me too.
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      12-15-2008, 11:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
The e9x m3 does have a cdv and removing it does make a difference. Clutch feels a lot better with out it.
well, seeing that there is no CDV, it is interesting that you think the clutch feels a lot better without it...

greg, check out this thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153462
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      12-16-2008, 12:00 AM   #10
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greg again, check out this one. Even more definitive:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...8&postcount=10
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      12-16-2008, 12:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niterider View Post
The e9x m3 does have a cdv and removing it does make a difference. Clutch feels a lot better with out it.
So you removed up CDV ha. Would you be so kind and guide me on a DIY? I want to do it myself this weekend but don't know where to look..

Many thanks,
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      12-16-2008, 01:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
Maybe I'm not keeping up--point me to the evidence, please.
I recalled reading it on the forum but I didn't remember where. Big Windy found the posts I was thinking of. Other than that, I don't really know - I've left mine alone.

Now, about those washers... Did you get them or not?

Thanks!
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      12-16-2008, 08:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
I recalled reading it on the forum but I didn't remember where. Big Windy found the posts I was thinking of. Other than that, I don't really know - I've left mine alone.

Now, about those washers... Did you get them or not?

Thanks!
JJ
I'll look and let you know JJ
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      12-17-2008, 02:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkyg View Post
I'll look and let you know JJ
Thanks!
JJ
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      12-17-2008, 02:34 AM   #15
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I got the GruppeM brake lines and I can tell you it makes a difference. Especially on the initial biting when you hit the brakes!
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      12-17-2008, 12:07 PM   #16
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Greg, can you do a DIY when you put these in?
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      12-17-2008, 01:39 PM   #17
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Brake line DIY

Quote:
Originally Posted by JuniorDee View Post
Greg, can you do a DIY when you put these in?
I will if I do it myself. I may have my dealer do it if I have the car in for another reason.
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      12-18-2008, 04:10 AM   #18
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thanks for the info greg
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      12-29-2008, 01:21 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon View Post
I will if I do it myself. I may have my dealer do it if I have the car in for another reason.
Thanks for the thread, looking for the little things I can do to improve the breaking. I also agree with letting the dealer do it. I talked to my mechanic at my dealer and want someone who does this sh*t all the time doing it so I don't have to worry I didn't do something wrong.


I know, I know, I'm sure its not that difficult, but I like the peace of mind knowing that a pro did it

Cheers,
e46e92
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Last edited by e46e92love; 01-15-2009 at 06:48 AM.
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      01-14-2009, 12:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post
I got the GruppeM brake lines and I can tell you it makes a difference. Especially on the initial biting when you hit the brakes!
I was just looking at those, do they make a difference even when just cruising?

I assume you know the car (as many others) brings the pads right to the rotor when there's acceleration followed by sudden throttle liftoff. So in that scenario they would always bite, and with new lines even harder.

I've never had problems when following on the track, but in the city when going at city speeds and someone cuts me off it feels like there's more pedal travel to get the same braking power compared to other times. This I assume is the exact symptom that people get the lines for.
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      01-14-2009, 12:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argonboy View Post
I was just looking at those, do they make a difference even when just cruising?

I assume you know the car (as many others) brings the pads right to the rotor when there's acceleration followed by sudden throttle liftoff. So in that scenario they would always bite, and with new lines even harder.

I've never had problems when following on the track, but in the city when going at city speeds and someone cuts me off it feels like there's more pedal travel to get the same braking power compared to other times. This I assume is the exact symptom that people get the lines for.
Generally brake lines are pretty subjective. But my feel is that with the steel braided brake lines, the modulation IMHO becomes perfect. The brake pedal sits higher and much more linear right from the top unlike the stock that somewhat had half an inch of deal travel. Cruising is more or less the same but recently when i had to jam brake when some jack ass cut into my lane with no indicator, I realised that the braking was perfect and about 30% better than stock.

Like i said, its subjective and I have it in my car for almost 3 months now and must say its a relatively effective mod. Make sure you use good brake fluids like Castrol SRF and bleed out the old one completely. That as a package makes quite a difference.

Hope this helps!
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      01-15-2009, 12:00 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argonboy View Post
I assume you know the car (as many others) brings the pads right to the rotor when there's acceleration followed by sudden throttle liftoff.
The M3 doesn't do that, nor does it have the brake drying function. It has DSC and ABS but does not have pre-braking or wet-braking assistant technology.
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