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      07-08-2013, 10:59 PM   #1
Day Laborer
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2 post lift - safe lift points

I recently installed my MaxJax and realized that the traditional plastic jack point in the front isnt the best place for the front arms.

Can anyone confirm this picture I found from EAS?

As you can see, the rear arms are using the rear plastic jack points. but not the front.

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/1...nstallpan2.jpg


Can anyone please confirm that the area forward of the "E92" section is a safe lift point?



Thanks!
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      07-08-2013, 11:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day Laborer View Post
I recently installed my MaxJax and realized that the traditional plastic jack point in the front isnt the best place for the front arms.

Can anyone confirm this picture I found from EAS?

As you can see, the rear arms are using the rear plastic jack points. but not the front.

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/1...nstallpan2.jpg


Can anyone please confirm that the area forward of the "E92" section is a safe lift point?



Thanks!
The car is being lifted from the jack pads - just further down on the lift arm. The yellow pads are not touching the car in that image.

Just hard to tell from that angle.
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      07-08-2013, 11:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
The car is being lifted from the jack pads - just further down on the lift arm. The yellow pads are not touching the car in that image.

Just hard to tell from that angle.
Thanks Tom!

I guess its safe to lift the front jack pads with the arms?

Any suggested sleeve or rubber pads to put on the arms?

I've been having trouble matching each end to the plastic jack pads.
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      07-08-2013, 11:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day Laborer View Post
Thanks Tom!

I guess its safe to lift the front jack pads with the arms?

Any suggested sleeve or rubber pads to put on the arms?

I've been having trouble matching each end to the plastic jack pads.
Yes, jack pads are where to lift from. A strategically placed hockey puck works well as a spacer if needed (depending on lift arm length).
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      07-08-2013, 11:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Yes, jack pads are where to lift from. A strategically placed hockey puck works well as a spacer if needed (depending on lift arm length).
Thanks!
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      07-09-2013, 08:16 AM   #6
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follow up question to raising the car

So I was trying to lift my car to bleed the brakes for the first time myself, and I was unable to get to the rear diff with either of my jacks, so I used some plywood as buffers and lifted from the circled points (under the coil springs). A little bit from either side using my 2 jacks until the car was high enough to get jack stands under the rear side jacking points.....

now I'm reading about jacking up the car (after the fact), and I'm finding threads where folks are saying this is a bad idea....

So....did I mess up my car???? Going to the track this weekend....do I need to have a dealer check it out before I go?


Last edited by gan1hck; 07-09-2013 at 08:18 AM. Reason: front vs rear
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      07-09-2013, 09:12 AM   #7
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Probably no damage, but don't do that again. Lifting from 6 inches further in at the suspension mounting point would be better. I have adapters for the outer factory lift points, the rectangular black plastic pieces. The adapters are round pieces of metal with a metal rectangle on top to fit into the black plastic pieces. You can buy a set of 4 on ebay for about $50. If I jack one factory point, I can then slip another jack under the front or rear of the car to jack the subframe. Once up, I put jackstands under the car, at either the factor jack points or at suspension mount points. Obviously, when lowering, you will again need to use the second jack.

When using my two post lift, I lift from those outer rectangular black plastic pieces. If the lift arms cannot be positioned perfectly, I will lift from the inner part of the arm rather than the pad at the end of the arm.
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      07-09-2013, 09:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Probably no damage, but don't do that again. Lifting from 6 inches further in at the suspension mounting point would be better. I have adapters for the outer factory lift points, the rectangular black plastic pieces. The adapters are round pieces of metal with a metal rectangle on top to fit into the black plastic pieces. You can buy a set of 4 on ebay for about $50. If I jack one factory point, I can then slip another jack under the front or rear of the car to jack the subframe. Once up, I put jackstands under the car, at either the factor jack points or at suspension mount points. Obviously, when lowering, you will again need to use the second jack.

When using my two post lift, I lift from those outer rectangular black plastic pieces. If the lift arms cannot be positioned perfectly, I will lift from the inner part of the arm rather than the pad at the end of the arm.
Thanks for the feedback!!!

Boy...what a pain to jack this car up....wish it had a real central lift point in the rear like it has in the front.
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      07-09-2013, 12:44 PM   #9
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I have been doing the two jack method on lowered cars for years. My little $59 aluminum HF jack is the started jack that I use at a stock side jack point and my big $79 steel Michelin jack is the one I then slide under one end of the car.

With the lift, I have some 2x12 board sections that I drive onto so I have enough height to slide the arms under a seriously lowered car.
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      07-09-2013, 10:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
If the lift arms cannot be positioned perfectly, I will lift from the inner part of the arm rather than the pad at the end of the arm.
Thanks for the tip. I was a little worried about doing that at first.
I bought a bunch of hockey pucks from amazon so that I don't damage my side skirts.

I just hope these hockey pucks are strong enough.
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      07-10-2013, 09:52 AM   #11
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Of course you want to make sure your car's center of gravity is mid way between your posts as well! On my Bendpak XPR9 one pair of arms is longer than the other. I have to put the longer arms towards the front of the car to get my E90 balanced.
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      07-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Day Laborer View Post
Thanks for the tip. I was a little worried about doing that at first.
I bought a bunch of hockey pucks from amazon so that I don't damage my side skirts.

I just hope these hockey pucks are strong enough.
I would not jack on the side skirts. I always jack from just behind the plastic. The stock jacking points are hollow rectangles designed to fit a metal rectangle jack. The proper fitting is not a hockey puck but a jack pad adapter with a metal rectangle on top that fits into the hollow rectangle on the car.

Look under there and you will see. If you jack against the hollow plastic rectangle on the car, you will eventually crack it and chip away at it. You can buy new ones.

Check for BMW jack pad adapters on ebay. When jacking from a point on the lift arm that is inboard of the lift arm pad, I put the jack pad adapter on the arm so the arm does not contact the side skirt. To keep everything fairly level, I may use blocks of wood as I fit the other lift arms to the car.
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      07-10-2013, 04:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidZ View Post
Of course you want to make sure your car's center of gravity is mid way between your posts as well! On my Bendpak XPR9 one pair of arms is longer than the other. I have to put the longer arms towards the front of the car to get my E90 balanced.
You probably have a nice asymmetrical top post lift. With asymmetrical arms, you have more fitting options. I have less space and less height so I have a symmetrical two post floor plate lift. Not perfect, but cheap at $1400 and it works but I have to fiddle more to fit the arms and often find the driver's door opening into the post with limited clearance.
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