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      02-23-2009, 06:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuniorDee View Post
if an alignment is not done, what kind of tire wear would we see?
Do the alignment. The toe will be completely off after the drop. What's the point of having an M3 if it doesn't handle well?
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      02-24-2009, 02:46 PM   #24
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the toe. OK thanks
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      03-11-2009, 09:26 AM   #25
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nice DIY. but 6 hours. ouch!
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      03-17-2009, 06:47 AM   #26
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great pictures! but 6 hours? ouch! The rear is very simple compared to cars where the rear spring sits on the shock absorbers like the front does.
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      03-17-2009, 04:31 PM   #27
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Is any shop equipped to do an alignment on our cars? An alignment at BMW runs $200+
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      03-17-2009, 05:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDCTFTW View Post
Is any shop equipped to do an alignment on our cars? An alignment at BMW runs $200+
Most independent alignment shops can do it. Are you asking about Norcal tuners in particular?
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      03-17-2009, 07:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDCTFTW View Post
Is any shop equipped to do an alignment on our cars? An alignment at BMW runs $200+
Yes, but they may not have the latest specs, procedures, etc.
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      05-24-2009, 04:50 PM   #30
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Does anyone know where I can get the torque specs for the bolts? I'm looking to start the install, but wary to do it without the torque specs.
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      05-24-2009, 05:22 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeldorian View Post
Does anyone know where I can get the torque specs for the bolts? I'm looking to start the install, but wary to do it without the torque specs.
Aren't they all in here:


Torque specs: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183005
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      05-27-2009, 12:24 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonggi View Post
nice DIY. but 6 hours. ouch!
It did not take me 6 hours. I started at about 11:00 AM and was done by 2:00 PM and we ate lunch after we did the fronts and then started the rear. (following this DIY of course...)
but there was 2 of us.
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      06-11-2009, 12:49 PM   #33
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Your pics show a removal of the upper spring hat before wrestling the front shock/spring assembly out of the fender. This must have been a pain. Didn't the shock rod extend out?

I followed the approach outlined in the first link by keeping the assemblies intact while removing them from the car. Unbolted the entire shock from the car to avoid any contact with the body.

The Autozone in my area charges for the spring compressor value but refunds the whole amount when you return them.


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      06-14-2009, 12:39 PM   #34
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Just finished the front. I removed the three nuts at the top and dropped the whole spring/shock combo and then compressed the spring to give me more room to work. Took me about 3 hours for the fronts. The backs will be after lunch and rehydration.
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      06-14-2009, 12:54 PM   #35
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The rears are a breeze compared to the front. Should take an hour tops!
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      06-14-2009, 02:45 PM   #36
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Yeah it should except I was finishing up the 4th quarter after just torquing the bolts, and I notice that the H&R logo is upside down. God damn it, I put the spring in upside down. So now I get to tear it back down and do it again. It was the side with the leveler sensor too so that is even more work. I'm taking a break before tackling it again. Note to others always check and make sure your spring is in correctly before reassembling everything.
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      06-24-2009, 01:23 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonggi View Post
nice DIY. but 6 hours. ouch!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989baby View Post
It did not take me 6 hours. I started at about 11:00 AM and was done by 2:00 PM and we ate lunch after we did the fronts and then started the rear. (following this DIY of course...)
but there was 2 of us.
yep ... it took us 2h to get it done ...
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      07-29-2009, 07:00 AM   #38
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how tight are the bolts? Will I have some trouble loosening some of them?
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      07-29-2009, 01:19 PM   #39
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Depends on the size of your muscles and the tools you have to work with. It's a pretty typical suspension install.

I helped a friend do his springs recently and we left the front assemblies connected at the bottom while swinging the top hats out. This is much easier but requires two people. Someone needs to hold the assembly while the helper compresses/decompresses the spring. I still recommend undoing the hats once the assemblies are pointed away from the car.


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      12-08-2009, 10:34 PM   #40
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thanks again! took me 4 hrs to do it myself. boy was i sore! bump for those that might need it.
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      01-01-2010, 09:46 PM   #41
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is it really that easy? Last time i saw a thread it was like 1800 bolts to remove and shit..

this is pretty easy..
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      01-03-2010, 06:24 PM   #42
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updated...
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      03-26-2010, 05:59 PM   #43
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" BMW recommends replacing all nuts and bolts"

Where are people buying the nuts and bolts from? Is your friendly dealer the best place?
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      03-26-2010, 10:23 PM   #44
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You dont need to replace the bolts. Give me a break, just put loctite back on the 3 bolts that hold the strut brace and on the main center bolt that holds the hat to the strut.
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