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      07-08-2014, 06:58 AM   #1
anom3
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What is the proper route to take when replacing OEM to OEM bearings?

Sometime down the line, I plan on replacing the rod bearings on my M3.

I was wondering what the proper route to take is when doing this. I dont mean the actual work, but as far as selecting from the available options.

Lets assume for a minute that its caught early enough so that the crank is completely undamaged and does not have to be removed.

My understanding as far as the available options are (updating this as most people view the first post, good reference in terms of choices):

a) No longer available (discontinued by BMW) : Replace with old OEM bearings (still lead coated?).
b) An option : Replace with new OEM bearings (no longer lead coated?).
c) Yes they are thicker... : Replace with VAC coated bearings, but the crank should be removed and filed down to compensate for the additional thickness the VAC coating provides?
d) Probably the best option : WPC treated bearings (in essence treated, but not thicker)

Frankly, if the above are all possible, I would most like to go with B. While I understand this probably means the rod bearings will in essence become a serviceable part, the initial financial hit will be much lighter and more importantly finding someone to do a major overhaul like removing the crank is no easy task (where I am located anyways).

So, if you were to replace your rod bearings knowing your crank is still in good shape, what route would you take?

---

Bonus round! Out of curiosity, strictly speaking about labor, how many hours are involved in a rod bearing swap on the S65?

Last edited by anom3; 07-08-2014 at 09:11 AM.
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      07-08-2014, 07:53 AM   #2
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although this has been discussed extensively I think this breaks it down nicely in terms of options, but hours of labor and pricing are all over other threads. I believe it was $1800-2700 with labor for most people that I have seen across the country.
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      07-08-2014, 08:48 AM   #3
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First one is a non option. The leaded bearings were discontinued 3 years ago and no one has any inventory left. The only bearings available are the new unleaded OEM ones. You can choose to have them VAC coated, but that's not a good idea since the coating reduces an already insufficient clearance. A better alternative is the WPC treatment. It thins the bearings slightly and improves retention of the oil film.
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      07-08-2014, 09:11 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
First one is a non option. The leaded bearings were discontinued 3 years ago and no one has any inventory left. The only bearings available are the new unleaded OEM ones. You can choose to have them VAC coated, but that's not a good idea since the coating reduces an already insufficient clearance. A better alternative is the WPC treatment. It thins the bearings slightly and improves retention of the oil film.
+1, this is what I plan on doing eventually.
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      07-08-2014, 10:04 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros View Post
First one is a non option. The leaded bearings were discontinued 3 years ago and no one has any inventory left. The only bearings available are the new unleaded OEM ones. You can choose to have them VAC coated, but that's not a good idea since the coating reduces an already insufficient clearance. A better alternative is the WPC treatment. It thins the bearings slightly and improves retention of the oil film.
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+1, this is what I plan on doing eventually.
Best option is the WPC bearings. Most pricing I have seen is $22-2400
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      07-08-2014, 12:55 PM   #6
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I'm buying 3 or 4 OEM sets, getting them measured and choosing 8 with best clearence
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      07-08-2014, 06:18 PM   #7
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Will you give me the rest?
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      07-08-2014, 06:45 PM   #8
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God Bless OP as from your posts you spend more time working on this car then driving and enjoying it.
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      07-08-2014, 06:45 PM   #9
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Will sell them at discount!
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      07-08-2014, 07:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coloradoe92m3 View Post
I'm buying 3 or 4 OEM sets, getting them measured and choosing 8 with best clearence
That is pointless because shell thickness is only one dimension that determines clearance. You can have a thinner shell but the shell height and crush numbers can actually make it tighter.
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      07-08-2014, 07:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I'm buying 3 or 4 OEM sets, getting them measured and choosing 8 with best clearence
Clearance is measured installed. What you're saying sounds silly.
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      07-08-2014, 07:46 PM   #12
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Oh shoot, I meant thickness obviously
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      07-08-2014, 07:48 PM   #13
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Well I'm not saying its perfect but thinner ones have higher chance at having more clearance when all other variables aren't measurable but likely not as key as thickness
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