easy upgrade for HIFI system

[kmarei]

i had started getting the audio upgrade itch
so first thing i did was replace the front tweeters
its easy and you don't need to pull off the door trim if you want to desolder the OEM tweeter and solder in the new tweeter

next step; AMP!
i bought a used soundstream on ebay as i am a little partial to them
it accepts balanded inputs so no need for a line output converter
i tried buying a used E46 amp to use the socket that accepts the OEM plug that has all the speaker wires, power etc
but its damn hard to solder when the pins are so close
so i just pulled out all the pins i need from the OEM plug (i wrote down where each one goes so i can take the car back to stock)
and just attached wires that hook up to the soundstream
i have 50 watts RMS per channel to front and rear
and 50 watts RMS to the OEM subs
and it definetly sounds better, much punchier, treble is way better
if you want a simple upgrade, you can't beat this
just an amp and tweeters
if you want more volume then you have to change the underseat subs first
as i think they will blow if you give them more than 50 watts

next step for me is to find a way to mount a 10" subwoofer onto a baffle board that fires through the ski hatch

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by kmarei

i had started getting the audio upgrade itch
so first thing i did was replace the front tweeters
its easy and you don't need to pull off the door trim if you want to desolder the OEM tweeter and solder in the new tweeter

next step; AMP!
i bought a used soundstream on ebay as i am a little partial to them
it accepts balanded inputs so no need for a line output converter
i tried buying a used E46 amp to use the socket that accepts the OEM plug that has all the speaker wires, power etc
but its damn hard to solder when the pins are so close
so i just pulled out all the pins i need from the OEM plug (i wrote down where each one goes so i can take the car back to stock)
and just attached wires that hook up to the soundstream
i have 50 watts RMS per channel to front and rear
and 50 watts RMS to the OEM subs
and it definetly sounds better, much punchier, treble is way better
if you want a simple upgrade, you can't beat this
just an amp and tweeters
if you want more volume then you have to change the underseat subs first
as i think they will blow if you give them more than 50 watts

next step for me is to find a way to mount a 10" subwoofer onto a baffle board that fires through the ski hatch

Which Soundstream amp? Did more power improve the mids too? The OEM tweeters are pretty much worthless IMO. Sounds like you got yourself a decent upgrade for not very much money.

[kmarei]

soundstream Reference 405s
yes, i think more power did improve the mids
i can hear the snap of the snare drum, its punchier now
honestly, if i didn't need more power, it sounds good as it is
i bought a set of used logic 7 speakers as i'd like to lower the crossover point for the door speakers
i'm using 120 now, and i'm hoping i can take it down to 90hz or so with the logic 7 speakers
i will only replace the front door ones, don't really care about the rear as much
i paid $200 for the soundstream incl shipping
i am going to mount it to the OEM amp mount
but i will need the trim panel for the cars with the changer due to the extra height
i have it mounted diagonally
the lower half towards the center of the car

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by kmarei

i'd like to lower the crossover point for the door speakers
i'm using 120 now, and i'm hoping i can take it down to 90hz or so with the logic 7 speakers

90 might be kind of pushing it but I'd like to know the outcome of that since I would want to try the same thing once I actually get around to installing the stuff I have. Staring at the equipment in the box for 4 months is not so fun.

[sun]

Which tweeters did you use?

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by sun

Which tweeters did you use?

i am using what, in my humble opinion, are the best tweeters ever designed by man.
Infinity EMITs
they are planar electro-magnetic induction
they go up to about 40khz,they sound amazing
very clear

you can actually fit any tweeter you want in the sail panel
the plastic guide for the OEM tweeter is removable
you just have to pull hard and the glue comes off
so you are left with the surround and the grill
just stick anything you want and the foam backing keeps it in place

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

90 might be kind of pushing it

unfortunately you were right
90hz caused too much buzzing
had to use about 105hz (i'm guessing( for the front
and 150hz for the back
so i gained 15hz by using the logic 7 speakers

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by kmarei

unfortunately you were right
90hz caused too much buzzing
had to use about 105hz (i'm guessing( for the front
and 150hz for the back
so i gained 15hz by using the logic 7 speakers

What's the slope of the x-over? I'm wondering if I could push 100 if I increase the slope to 18 or 24db/oct.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

What's the slope of the x-over? I'm wondering if I could push 100 if I increase the slope to 18 or 24db/oct.

i used 12db/octave
that's a good idea using 18 or 24
in my case i am limited by the amp
its 12db for high pass
and 24db for low pass

although you'd think it should be the reverse
you need higher slopes to protect midranges/tweeters from bass frequencies
woofers won't blow if they get a little midrange signal

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

90 might be kind of pushing it but I'd like to know the outcome of that since I would want to try the same thing once I actually get around to installing the stuff I have. Staring at the equipment in the box for 4 months is not so fun.

after listening to them for a few days
i realized the buzzing was not the speaker
it sounded like something vibrating against the speaker
sure enough, when i took the OEM grills off
i noticed the sound was not from the speaker
my guess is the foam water shield that is glued to the door frame is vibrating against the back of the speaker
keep in mind the OEM woofers have a very small circumference magnet
so they go into the recess int he foam shield
the logic 7 have a much larger magnet, so more contact area with the foam shield
when i tried pushing the speaker rim in
the vibration stopped
and my crossover was set to 60hz!!

so will try to use the soft side of velcro stuck to the back of the speaker
since that will illiminate the rattling