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      07-04-2013, 11:50 PM   #111
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[QUOTE=Dub A;14230886]Just got my KW sleeves put on - im at 3/4's of the way down, believe that equates to 1.5" drop in the front and 1" in the rear.

How does the car ride? I'm about to get my KW sleeves put on in a few weeks.
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      10-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #112
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2011 BMW E92 M3  [10.00]
Stock ZCP suspension. Just put on new super sports and alignment resulting in...

Front:
Camber -1.4 L/R
Toe 0.00 L/R
Caster 6.7/6.6 L/R

Rear:
Camber -1.6/-1.4 L/R
Toe 0.05/0.03 L/R
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      10-21-2013, 08:30 PM   #113
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2013 BMW M3 ZCP w/ Eibach Pro-Kit

Need some help on this one guys. I have a 2013 BMW M3 ZCP w/ Eibach Pro-Kit. 15mm/12.5mm Macht Schnell Spacers. 245/265's. So what alignment specs should I go with on the street w/o getting overly complicated with plates? Never track it. You guys seem to know your stuff...
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      11-12-2013, 09:04 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Matz View Post
Need some help on this one guys. I have a 2013 BMW M3 ZCP w/ Eibach Pro-Kit. 15mm/12.5mm Macht Schnell Spacers. 245/265's. So what alignment specs should I go with on the street w/o getting overly complicated with plates? Never track it. You guys seem to know your stuff...
I'm more or less the same setup as this. 2008 M3 with 220M wheels, 15/12 spacers, EDC and just installed some Swift sport springs, pulled alignment pins. Getting a wheel alignment on friday. Can anyone help me wtih suggested settings for optimal handling street/occasional track day
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      11-14-2013, 02:56 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsv4dan View Post
I'm more or less the same setup as this. 2008 M3 with 220M wheels, 15/12 spacers, EDC and just installed some Swift sport springs, pulled alignment pins. Getting a wheel alignment on friday. Can anyone help me wtih suggested settings for optimal handling street/occasional track day
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
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      11-14-2013, 05:58 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsv4dan View Post
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
I would go by what Malek posted since the guys who have had their alignment done by MRF rave about the way he set up their cars. If I lived in LA I'd be at MRF everyday.

However the fact that you are going with that setup, don't you have to take into account the size of your wheels, ride height etc? I'm in the same position, mostly street and 1 or 2 track days a year.
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      11-23-2013, 04:58 PM   #117
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K, this is what i was able to do since I didn't pull the alignment pin when we installed the springs.

Lowered on swift springs, 18 inch wheels, with 265 square setup for winter

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-1.4* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.5* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


Comments welcome...
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      11-24-2013, 11:37 AM   #118
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^ why would you want toe out in the front for street? On track it might give you better turn in but for everyday its a tire killer and less stability under heavy braking.
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      12-05-2013, 02:54 PM   #119
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^ Are you saying toe should be set to 0? Isn't that worse for stability?

I'm not an expert but hopefully Malek and others can chime in.
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      12-07-2013, 01:23 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsv4dan View Post
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
Depending on how much you track the vehicle, I wouldn't do 1/32" toe out on the front if it will be used on the street. Those specs are geared more toward a track car. These settings will of course vary greatly depending on ride height, and wheel and tire setup.

Given you are on Swift Spec-R lowering springs and the stock 18's with spacers, I would try neutral toe in the front and not toe out.

If you have more questions, let me know, I will be more than willing to help you.

Also, the post of mine you are referring to is based on a completely different wheel and tire setup as well as the suspension itself. I don't want that post to be taken the wrong way and everyone thinking those are the best settings to use. Those settings were used for a specific setup. Alignment is not a one size fits all subset of settings. Driver, car, track and tires all play a roll in what alignment is best for the car.
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Last edited by Malek@MRF; 12-07-2013 at 01:29 PM..
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      12-09-2013, 09:36 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
Depending on how much you track the vehicle, I wouldn't do 1/32" toe out on the front if it will be used on the street. Those specs are geared more toward a track car. These settings will of course vary greatly depending on ride height, and wheel and tire setup.

Given you are on Swift Spec-R lowering springs and the stock 18's with spacers, I would try neutral toe in the front and not toe out.

If you have more questions, let me know, I will be more than willing to help you.

Also, the post of mine you are referring to is based on a completely different wheel and tire setup as well as the suspension itself. I don't want that post to be taken the wrong way and everyone thinking those are the best settings to use. Those settings were used for a specific setup. Alignment is not a one size fits all subset of settings. Driver, car, track and tires all play a roll in what alignment is best for the car.
Thanks so much for the feedback ... Pm'd you just now. Will appreciate all the help you can provide.
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Last edited by swifty; 12-09-2013 at 09:41 AM..
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      12-13-2013, 09:44 PM   #122
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How do these look? :

E92
KWV3
Pins Pulled
ZCP Wheels OEM tire sizes
15/12 Spacers

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      12-14-2013, 05:57 AM   #123
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Here u go
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      12-14-2013, 05:58 AM   #124
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Here u go!

Sways, lowered, spacers, camber/caster plates
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      01-18-2014, 02:34 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsv4dan View Post
Anyone got any input? Appointment is tomorrow morning. With the pins pulled and the strut tops all the way in the front LOOKS like its got a stack of camber, but will have to wait and see how it measures up.

I've been reading through everyone's setup and over on the last page Malek posted this:

Front:
1/32" toe out per side
-2.0* camber per side

Rear:
1/16" toe in per side
-1.8* camber per side.

Thrust Angle = 0.00


I'm thinking i'll go for this - or as close as i can get, probably won't get that much camber up front.
Depending on how much you track the vehicle, I wouldn't do 1/32" toe out on the front if it will be used on the street. Those specs are geared more toward a track car. These settings will of course vary greatly depending on ride height, and wheel and tire setup.

Given you are on Swift Spec-R lowering springs and the stock 18's with spacers, I would try neutral toe in the front and not toe out.

If you have more questions, let me know, I will be more than willing to help you.

Also, the post of mine you are referring to is based on a completely different wheel and tire setup as well as the suspension itself. I don't want that post to be taken the wrong way and everyone thinking those are the best settings to use. Those settings were used for a specific setup. Alignment is not a one size fits all subset of settings. Driver, car, track and tires all play a roll in what alignment is best for the car.
Ok so I set the toe in the front to neutral and rear toe to 1.2mm. Does feel more planted.


My only issue is that they could get 1.9 camber in the front right but only 1.3 on the left side. Without camber plates and since it's lowered on swifts they said it's impossible to get it to match. Can someone confirm this is infact the case.
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      02-10-2014, 05:12 PM   #126
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2008 E92 M3  [9.50]
Here are my specs. Lowered on springs approx 1" drop front and .5" back. The front struts were pushed in. Riding on 19x9.5" w/ 255/35/19 fronts and 19x10" w/ 295/30/19 rears.


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      03-30-2014, 04:45 PM   #127
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Alignment tech said he couldn't get the front driver side camber to match the pass side. Suspension mods are Bilstein/Eibach B12 kit, Rogue tension rod bushings, DEFIV brace and TMS solid sub mounts. Can anyone tell just by looking at the current sheet what might be the issue?
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      04-29-2014, 11:43 AM   #128
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So I recently had my alignment done and my camber seems real high to me. The tech suggested these settings. I am running KW V3 and the rear is pretty much all the way down. Car sits just off the tires front and rear.

Front is 2.0 on both sides
Rear is 2.4 on both sides. He said he was having problems getting the driver side any more positive but he couldn't see anything physically damaged.

Any ideas or comments?
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      04-30-2014, 11:32 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmk08
So I recently had my alignment done and my camber seems real high to me. The tech suggested these settings. I am running KW V3 and the rear is pretty much all the way down. Car sits just off the tires front and rear.

Front is 2.0 on both sides
Rear is 2.4 on both sides. He said he was having problems getting the driver side any more positive but he couldn't see anything physically damaged.

Any ideas or comments?
is there a reason he has the back that negative?
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      04-30-2014, 12:18 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowSaloonM3 View Post
is there a reason he has the back that negative?
Yeah like I said he couldn't get the driver side anymore positive than that he said. Maybe I need to raise up my KW some?
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      04-30-2014, 12:35 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmk08 View Post
Yeah like I said he couldn't get the driver side anymore positive than that he said. Maybe I need to raise up my KW some?
the more drop you have the easier it should be to get negative camber. your settings dont make sense. slow saloon was trying to point that out. your front should have a higher negative camber than your rear, or at least thats the only way i have seen it besides rear engine car.
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      04-30-2014, 01:08 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
the more drop you have the easier it should be to get negative camber. your settings dont make sense. slow saloon was trying to point that out. your front should have a higher negative camber than your rear, or at least thats the only way i have seen it besides rear engine car.
Yeah and what i'm saying is he said he couldn't get it anymore positive on the rear on the drivers side. So for instance he couldn't make it -2.0. Thats why I asked if maybe I need to raise up my rear to get more positive.

He could get it to go more on the passenger side but not the driver. He said maybe something in the top of suspension was warped but he couldnt find anything.

EDIT: Unless you're just saying -2.4 isn't a problem in the rear my front should just be more?

Last edited by dmk08; 04-30-2014 at 01:14 PM..
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