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      08-16-2021, 09:34 AM   #1
LakeSurfer
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New battery issues

Ive been working on the car and keeping it in the garage for the past several months. the battery was 5 years old and for some reason I neglected to put it on the charger until it was to late and the voltage went down to almost nothing. so I replaced the battery with a new OEM style replacement.

I have not registered the new battery yet.

I've lost comfort access and my charger now reads "bad battery, charging aborted" The car starts with the key fob inserted and runs and drives as usual and when I checked the volts with my multi meter it was reading around 12.6 volts while the car was not running. My charger is also of the cheaper varieties but it also works as it should on my other cars.

does the "bad Battery" have something to do with the registration? and after I register it will I be able to retrieve the comfort access options?

I appreciate your feedback

Mark
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      08-16-2021, 09:49 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Ive been working on the car and keeping it in the garage for the past several months. the battery was 5 years old and for some reason I neglected to put it on the charger until it was to late and the voltage went down to almost nothing. so I replaced the battery with a new OEM style replacement.

I have not registered the new battery yet.

I've lost comfort access and my charger now reads "bad battery, charging aborted" The car starts with the key fob inserted and runs and drives as usual and when I checked the volts with my multi meter it was reading around 12.6 volts while the car was not running. My charger is also of the cheaper varieties but it also works as it should on my other cars.

does the "bad Battery" have something to do with the registration? and after I register it will I be able to retrieve the comfort access options?

I appreciate your feedback

Mark
Yes, get the battery registered and give it a few on off cycles to reset and return to operating normally. Just as a precation, I'd pick up a chanrger/tender that can correctly charge/maintain the AGM battery in our cars. I have the CTEK 7002
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      08-16-2021, 10:50 AM   #3
LakeSurfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagasan41 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Ive been working on the car and keeping it in the garage for the past several months. the battery was 5 years old and for some reason I neglected to put it on the charger until it was to late and the voltage went down to almost nothing. so I replaced the battery with a new OEM style replacement.

I have not registered the new battery yet.

I've lost comfort access and my charger now reads "bad battery, charging aborted" The car starts with the key fob inserted and runs and drives as usual and when I checked the volts with my multi meter it was reading around 12.6 volts while the car was not running. My charger is also of the cheaper varieties but it also works as it should on my other cars.

does the "bad Battery" have something to do with the registration? and after I register it will I be able to retrieve the comfort access options?

I appreciate your feedback

Mark
Yes, get the battery registered and give it a few on off cycles to reset and return to operating normally. Just as a precation, I'd pick up a chanrger/tender that can correctly charge/maintain the AGM battery in our cars. I have the CTEK 7002
That's what I figured. I'll look into a new charger as well.

Appreciate it.
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      08-16-2021, 08:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagasan41 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Ive been working on the car and keeping it in the garage for the past several months. the battery was 5 years old and for some reason I neglected to put it on the charger until it was to late and the voltage went down to almost nothing. so I replaced the battery with a new OEM style replacement.

I have not registered the new battery yet.

I've lost comfort access and my charger now reads "bad battery, charging aborted" The car starts with the key fob inserted and runs and drives as usual and when I checked the volts with my multi meter it was reading around 12.6 volts while the car was not running. My charger is also of the cheaper varieties but it also works as it should on my other cars.

does the "bad Battery" have something to do with the registration? and after I register it will I be able to retrieve the comfort access options?

I appreciate your feedback

Mark
Yes, get the battery registered and give it a few on off cycles to reset and return to operating normally. Just as a precation, I'd pick up a chanrger/tender that can correctly charge/maintain the AGM battery in our cars. I have the CTEK 7002
That's what I figured. I'll look into a new charger as well.

Appreciate it.
My fully charged AGM battery reads about 13.25V or sometimes higher. There's a lot of forum battery threads but in my experience batteries with voltage below 12.4V start to cause glitches and the car starts to throw odd codes. When you're not driving it keep it on the tender. The E9X series cars are like rolling cyborgs with numerous ECUs. The new battery amperage needs to be properly registered so the alternator can charge it properly unless it's specifications are identical to the previous battery.
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      08-17-2021, 09:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagasan41 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Ive been working on the car and keeping it in the garage for the past several months. the battery was 5 years old and for some reason I neglected to put it on the charger until it was to late and the voltage went down to almost nothing. so I replaced the battery with a new OEM style replacement.

I have not registered the new battery yet.

I've lost comfort access and my charger now reads "bad battery, charging aborted" The car starts with the key fob inserted and runs and drives as usual and when I checked the volts with my multi meter it was reading around 12.6 volts while the car was not running. My charger is also of the cheaper varieties but it also works as it should on my other cars.

does the "bad Battery" have something to do with the registration? and after I register it will I be able to retrieve the comfort access options?

I appreciate your feedback

Mark
Yes, get the battery registered and give it a few on off cycles to reset and return to operating normally. Just as a precation, I'd pick up a chanrger/tender that can correctly charge/maintain the AGM battery in our cars. I have the CTEK 7002
That's what I figured. I'll look into a new charger as well.

Appreciate it.
My fully charged AGM battery reads about 13.25V or sometimes higher. There's a lot of forum battery threads but in my experience batteries with voltage below 12.4V start to cause glitches and the car starts to throw odd codes. When you're not driving it keep it on the tender. The E9X series cars are like rolling cyborgs with numerous ECUs. The new battery amperage needs to be properly registered so the alternator can charge it properly unless it's specifications are identical to the previous battery.
.
Yes sir, I was able to pick up the charger via Amazon prime that the was recommended, took Amazon only 3 hours from the time I ordered it to delivery to my doorstep, so crazy and it's been charging since. Haven't checked voltage yet but in a few hours it read fully charged and was on maintenance charging. After I registered it and "coded" through Carly app everything is back to normal with the car.

What a relief. It's been 4 months since I've driven it and I'm going through withdrawals now. Time to ring it's neck.

-Mark
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      08-17-2021, 10:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
My fully charged AGM battery reads about 13.25V or sometimes higher. There's a lot of forum battery threads but in my experience batteries with voltage below 12.4V start to cause glitches and the car starts to throw odd codes. When you're not driving it keep it on the tender. The E9X series cars are like rolling cyborgs with numerous ECUs. The new battery amperage needs to be properly registered so the alternator can charge it properly unless it's specifications are identical to the previous battery.
.

Good info and to the cyborg reference. BMW's in general seem to throw tantrums when they detect low voltage. On another note, what is that around your power steering reservoir? Could be the photo but it looks like you're cloning Yoda. LOL


Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Yes sir, I was able to pick up the charger via Amazon prime that the was recommended, took Amazon only 3 hours from the time I ordered it to delivery to my doorstep, so crazy and it's been charging since. Haven't checked voltage yet but in a few hours it read fully charged and was on maintenance charging. After I registered it and "coded" through Carly app everything is back to normal with the car.

What a relief. It's been 4 months since I've driven it and I'm going through withdrawals now. Time to ring it's neck.

-Mark
Gotta love Amazon in FL!
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      08-17-2021, 10:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagasan41 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
My fully charged AGM battery reads about 13.25V or sometimes higher. There's a lot of forum battery threads but in my experience batteries with voltage below 12.4V start to cause glitches and the car starts to throw odd codes. When you're not driving it keep it on the tender. The E9X series cars are like rolling cyborgs with numerous ECUs. The new battery amperage needs to be properly registered so the alternator can charge it properly unless it's specifications are identical to the previous battery.
.

Good info and to the cyborg reference. BMW's in general seem to throw tantrums when they detect low voltage. On another note, what is that around your power steering reservoir? Could be the photo but it looks like you're cloning Yoda. LOL


Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Yes sir, I was able to pick up the charger via Amazon prime that the was recommended, took Amazon only 3 hours from the time I ordered it to delivery to my doorstep, so crazy and it's been charging since. Haven't checked voltage yet but in a few hours it read fully charged and was on maintenance charging. After I registered it and "coded" through Carly app everything is back to normal with the car.

What a relief. It's been 4 months since I've driven it and I'm going through withdrawals now. Time to ring it's neck.

-Mark
Gotta love Amazon in FL!
Around my power steering fluid reservoir is one of those towel material disposable hospital socks with the toe end cut off. It's similar to an athletic sock or tennis wrist band. It's done to absorb the excess fluid that sometimes leaks from the hole vent in the reservoir cap. This can happen in higher ambient temperatures or with cavitation of the fluid. Well spotted.
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      08-17-2021, 04:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFerry View Post
Around my power steering fluid reservoir is one of those towel material disposable hospital socks with the toe end cut off. It's similar to an athletic sock or tennis wrist band. It's done to absorb the excess fluid that sometimes leaks from the hole vent in the reservoir cap. This can happen in higher ambient temperatures or with cavitation of the fluid. Well spotted.
Nice idea! That damn reservoir is the only thing under my hood that will not stay clean, lol! Every time I open the hood it has a snail trail running from the cap. I need to do something like this or run a tube from the vent.
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      08-17-2021, 09:39 PM   #9
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1. Don't go 4 months without using your M unless you completely disconnect the battery.
2. Use a trickle charger if you're more of a every week or every other week use person.
3. Registering a new battery is a must, and don't use Carly. If not, you'll get increased discharged CELs and it could affect the electronics in your M.
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      08-18-2021, 08:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
1. Don't go 4 months without using your M unless you completely disconnect the battery.
2. Use a trickle charger if you're more of a every week or every other week use person.
3. Registering a new battery is a must, and don't use Carly. If not, you'll get increased discharged CELs and it could affect the electronics in your M.
Has anyone proven that registering batteries with Carly can damage electronics?

How could they trace it back to the battery registration?

My car has 50k miles and had an OEM battery installed by BMW 5 years ago and I had plenty of electronic components fail. I feel like BMW electronics are just fail happy and to sensitive to blame it on anything other than that. But I'm open and interested in facts.

Not trying to argue. Just curious.

-Mark
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      08-18-2021, 10:09 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
1. Don't go 4 months without using your M unless you completely disconnect the battery.
2. Use a trickle charger if you're more of a every week or every other week use person.
3. Registering a new battery is a must, and don't use Carly. If not, you'll get increased discharged CELs and it could affect the electronics in your M.
Has anyone proven that registering batteries with Carly can damage electronics?

How could they trace it back to the battery registration?

My car has 50k miles and had an OEM battery installed by BMW 5 years ago and I had plenty of electronic components fail. I feel like BMW electronics are just fail happy and to sensitive to blame it on anything other than that. But I'm open and interested in facts.

Not trying to argue. Just curious.

-Mark
Carly doesn't actually register the battery. There's quite a few posts around here regarding that. You'll need a real diagnostic tool like Autel, Foxwell, and Schwaben.
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      08-18-2021, 10:24 AM   #12
LakeSurfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSurfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBimmer2011 View Post
1. Don't go 4 months without using your M unless you completely disconnect the battery.
2. Use a trickle charger if you're more of a every week or every other week use person.
3. Registering a new battery is a must, and don't use Carly. If not, you'll get increased discharged CELs and it could affect the electronics in your M.
Has anyone proven that registering batteries with Carly can damage electronics?

How could they trace it back to the battery registration?

My car has 50k miles and had an OEM battery installed by BMW 5 years ago and I had plenty of electronic components fail. I feel like BMW electronics are just fail happy and to sensitive to blame it on anything other than that. But I'm open and interested in facts.

Not trying to argue. Just curious.

-Mark
Carly doesn't actually register the battery. There's quite a few posts around here regarding that. You'll need a real diagnostic tool like Autel, Foxwell, and Schwaben.
Good call. I have a foxwell that I totally forgot that it can register the battery.
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