Help: Crossover has 4 inputs, amp output only 2 wires!

[adc]

I think I know how to connect it, but don't want to blow something up.

I'm installing a set of Rainbow speakers in the front doors of my sedan, and the crossovers have 4 inputs (labeled + tweeter, - tweeter, + woofer, - woofer) - but there are only 2 wires coming out of the door. Using (for now) the stock HiFi amp.

My instinct is to connect the 2 wires from the door in parallel, giving the woofer and tweeter each the same signal.

Does this make sense, or am I making a big mistake?


Any ideas are much appreciated...

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by adc

I think I know how to connect it, but don't want to blow something up.

I'm installing a set of Rainbow speakers in the front doors of my sedan, and the crossovers have 4 inputs (labeled + tweeter, - tweeter, + woofer, - woofer) - but there are only 2 wires coming out of the door. Using (for now) the stock HiFi amp.

My instinct is to connect the 2 wires from the door in parallel, giving the woofer and tweeter each the same signal.

Does this make sense, or am I making a big mistake?


Any ideas are much appreciated...

Do you have the manual for the speakers? Typically crossovers that allow for bi-amping (separate inputs for woofer and tweeter) will have a way of feeding both from one input. It usually has to do with an internal jumper. Most I've seen use the woofer input as the single input and then the jumper has to be set so the signal can be routed to the tweeter as well.

[adc]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Do you have the manual for the speakers? Typically crossovers that allow for bi-amping (separate inputs for woofer and tweeter) will have a way of feeding both from one input. It usually has to do with an internal jumper. Most I've seen use the woofer input as the single input and then the jumper has to be set so the signal can be routed to the tweeter as well.

No manual - I looked everywhere in the box but no luck.

Edit: And the Rainbow website is less than worthless.

[808MGuy]

What model components do you have? I just looked up the Rainbow line and even some of the higher end sets don't have bi-amp capability through the passive crossover? Do you have a picture of the crossover?

[adc]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

What model components do you have? I just looked up the Rainbow line and even some of the higher end sets don't have bi-amp capability through the passive crossover? Do you have a picture of the crossover?

Rainbow Sound Line 210.25. Here are the pics...

BTW the crossovers are massive, but that's a different story altogether.

[808MGuy]

See the four black tabs on the left side of the crossover. Those look like some kind of jumper for setting various things. Each one probably has a different function which could include input selection, output attenuation, and even sound shaping. If you can't find the manual, I suggest you contact VP Electricity via PM since he's a Rainbow dealer and he might be able to give you more insight on exactly how to set those up.

[adc]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

See the four black tabs on the left side of the crossover. Those look like some kind of jumper for setting various things. Each one probably has a different function which could include input selection, output attenuation, and even sound shaping. If you can't find the manual, I suggest you contact VP Electricity via PM since he's a Rainbow dealer and he might be able to give you more insight on exactly how to set those up.

Thanks! I figured those jumpers are for setting the crossover, but without a manual I'm not sure I should play with them.

I got the speakers from VP Electricity and he is trying to obtain a copy of the manual from Rainbow (which may take a little while). But in the meantime, I'm trying to find some more info...

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by adc

Thanks! I figured those jumpers are for setting the crossover, but without a manual I'm not sure I should play with them.

I got the speakers from VP Electricity and he is trying to obtain a copy of the manual from Rainbow (which may take a little while). But in the meantime, I'm trying to find some more info...

If you want to just chance it I can tell you that in my experience, the factory default setting of the jumpers is for a single input. You can just try running the single input into the woofer input terminals and see what happens. Every other bi-ampable component set I've seen uses that configuration for the single input. Of course, you might want to test it with the volume way down just in case my past experience is not the case.

[VP Electricity]

Those need jumper wires across the inputs. PITA but it does allow biamping. I love those xovers but hate the housing and packaging.

Will call in a couple.
________
Kawasaki ZL1000A

[Technic]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Those need jumper wires across the inputs. PITA but it does allow biamping. I love those xovers but hate the housing and packaging.

Will call in a couple.

VP... do you have any function information about those S2-S5 jumpers there?

[adc]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Those need jumper wires across the inputs. PITA but it does allow biamping. I love those xovers but hate the housing and packaging.

Will call in a couple.

Originally Posted by Technic

VP... do you have any function information about those S2-S5 jumpers there?

So I got the information from VP Electricity regarding the jumpers, although by careful experimentation (read cursing) I had already figured out that the inputs needed jumpers across the + and - terminals.

I received instructions regarding the internal jumpers too - I think S2 is a tweeter attenuator, S3 the filter slope and S4/S5 tweeter polarity. I may have gotten the S2 and S3 names confused. In any case I'll receive a manual shortly and will double-check this.


I also found a great spot for the huge crossovers, I'll post pics tomorrow. Impressions also tomorrow.

Guys, I appreciate your help and willingness to work with me - should you find yourselves in the DC area, the beer is on me.

[VP Electricity]

All handled. Had to comed into the shop and pull the hard coy - no online manual (!).

There are 4" LP filter curve, tweeter HP filter and attenuation, and tweeter polarity jumper settings.

He's bringing the tweeter output down two clicks, engaging the notch filter in the HP output, using the lower level output of the LP curve (since the 4" is so high in the door), and maintaining the same polarity.
________
Ducati Apollo

[VP Electricity]

S1 (inside the inductor) changes the mid LP point and alignment a bit.

S2 is a notch filter on the tweeter. Engage it in our cars. If it's off axis, leave the notch filter on.

S3 is tweeter attenuation. 5 levels available.

S4 and 5 change the tweeter polarity relative to the mid.
________
iolite portable vaporizer

[808MGuy]

Wow. Pretty nice set of adjustments on such a moderately priced speaker set.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Wow. Pretty nice set of adjustments on such a moderately priced speaker set.

Indeed...

[adc]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Wow. Pretty nice set of adjustments on such a moderately priced speaker set.

Not to mention, the crossover is heavier than the OEM speaker...

[Sirrus]

Are these going to be mounted in the doors? I'm looking to get a set for my e92, but I was expecting something a lot smaller for the crossover.

[adc]

Originally Posted by Sirrus

Are these going to be mounted in the doors? I'm looking to get a set for my e92, but I was expecting something a lot smaller for the crossover.

In the doors - check out the location in the pic, it's a very good place to put them. All I did was dig 1/2" into the black foam block and then to strategically place industrial-grade double-sided foam. I then topped it with some dynamat material.

I might be able to install the amp & subs this weekend, after which I'll post a full report.

[ersin]

That pocket in the door almost looks like it was made for the x-over. Please do give us your impressions of the speakers when done. Thanks.


Cheers.

P.S. It's pretty cool how you duct taped the components to the door panel

[adc]

Originally Posted by ersin

P.S. It's pretty cool how you duct taped the components to the door panel

I've duct taped before and had mixed results - some tapes degrade over time and can come undone. So this time I've used dynamat-style material - that uses a very sticky tar-like substance as the "glue" (and it's not really tar since it does come off if you insist and doesn't smell).

The dynamat is much stronger, thicker and stickier than duct tape, I'd recommend it to anyone. (Plus needless to say, helps with sound insulation).

If you are referring to the speaker, that's not the main support for it - I used VP Electricity's metal rings to secure the speaker to the door panel. The dynamat is added on to complete the sound insulation, that's all.

[ersin]

It was joke really. That's what the LOL smiley was there for. It's pretty clear that you used dynamat. It just looks like duct tape in the pics. I don't think I'd ever seriously use duct tape or dynamat to mount a speaker. But in case of emergency ...


Cheers.

[adc]

Originally Posted by ersin

It was joke really. That's what the LOL smiley was there for. It's pretty clear that you used dynamat. It just looks like duct tape in the pics. I don't think I'd ever seriously use duct tape or dynamat to mount a speaker. But in case of emergency ...


Cheers.

Wasn't sure... Anyway, cheers.