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      01-16-2013, 08:43 PM   #1
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8600 rpms is fun

Not much to say other than I changed the ess tune to the 8600 rev limit tune as initially kept original limit. Love seeing the needle plow past the 8500 mark well into the red and here even more of a high pitch scream sustained for that extra 200 rpms.

I mean seriously-how much better does it get. Individual throttle bodies, 8600 RPM's, beautiful equal length headers and high flow cats with a straight back minimal bend exhaust system.

I mean come on-does engine tech get much more aural of an experience than that!
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      01-16-2013, 09:01 PM   #2
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Amen. I wonder how many people have raised RPM limit and experienced zero issues with regard to warranty (when something went wrong with car and had to take in). I know 'Benvo has not, but wonder if others had similar experiences?
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      01-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #3
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Revs climb too fast in the upper rpms to notice 200 more rpms. I had it for a short time but didn't feel any difference so it wasn't worth potential warranty risks.
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      01-16-2013, 10:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munit
Not much to say other than I changed the ess tune to the 8600 rev limit tune as initially kept original limit. Love seeing the needle plow past the 8500 mark well into the red and here even more of a high pitch scream sustained for that extra 200 rpms.

I mean seriously-how much better does it get. Individual throttle bodies, 8600 RPM's, beautiful equal length headers and high flow cats with a straight back minimal bend exhaust system.

I mean come on-does engine tech get much more aural of an experience than that!
8,800 is more fun. Another pointless thread.
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      01-16-2013, 11:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
8,800 is more fun. Another pointless thread.
Would you go higher than 8,800 Mike on the N/A motor? Just curious as instead of doing a low compression build ESS VT3 like Drew or IMG, I'm contemplating doing a build to allow for the motor to rev beyond 9,000 RPM with the blower. Would only make sense if it's (significantly) less costly than a $30K+ low compression build.
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      01-16-2013, 11:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
Another pointless thread.
+1
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      01-16-2013, 11:50 PM   #7
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Don't get me wrong I love the high revving engine we have and I laught at anything that doesn't go as high...yes even my own daily. However i sometimes just sit there and am like wow it just keeps going so I never understood why people like raising the limit even more especially for a lousy 200rpm
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      01-17-2013, 12:20 AM   #8
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i have mine raised with the stage 2 evolve and honestly i dont know if i have ever used that extra 300rpms. i track regularly but how the track is set up most places a short shift works better due to my placement on the track.
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      01-17-2013, 12:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Would you go higher than 8,800 Mike on the N/A motor? Just curious as instead of doing a low compression build ESS VT3 like Drew or IMG, I'm contemplating doing a build to allow for the motor to rev beyond 9,000 RPM with the blower. Would only make sense if it's (significantly) less costly than a $30K+ low compression build.
The motor is probably strong enough for it. But you would probably have to change camshafts / remap vanos to really take advantage of it up there. I've seen frezeframe data as high as 9,114 RPM and the motor still runs 20K miles later. Another member here said that his hit 12K and he only needed to replace one valve spring.

Bottom end stress is going to significantly increase at higher RPM. With a boosted setup without cams it might not be the best bang for the buck @ high RPM. I had to have custom cams made by Schrick for my S/C 330 to address valve overlap. It made a huge difference but wasn't set up for a high RPM setup. Then of course other things come into play - head flow, etc.. BMRLVR on the forum might have more insight on this.
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      01-17-2013, 12:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd598 View Post
Don't get me wrong I love the high revving engine we have and I laught at anything that doesn't go as high...yes even my own daily. However i sometimes just sit there and am like wow it just keeps going so I never understood why people like raising the limit even more especially for a lousy 200rpm
Because it holds power or makes more power there. Which means you're making more HP when the other car has to shift, and then you're already higher up in the band because you shifted at a higher point to begin with.

Not going to make a big difference in 1st, 2nd, or even 3rd really.. but 4th - 6th gears you could have a noticeable difference during a race just from that advantage alone. The more time you spend in that particular area due to gearing the more you're going to realize the advantage it affords you.

Another advantage is on the track when you're full throttle and need that extra couple hundred RPM. Happens to me sometimes when an up-shift isn't really feasible and you don't want to sit at the limiter when you could have a little more room there without shifting.
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      01-17-2013, 06:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
Because it holds power or makes more power there. Which means you're making more HP when the other car has to shift, and then you're already higher up in the band because you shifted at a higher point to begin with.

Not going to make a big difference in 1st, 2nd, or even 3rd really.. but 4th - 6th gears you could have a noticeable difference during a race just from that advantage alone. The more time you spend in that particular area due to gearing the more you're going to realize the advantage it affords you.

Another advantage is on the track when you're full throttle and need that extra couple hundred RPM. Happens to me sometimes when an up-shift isn't really feasible and you don't want to sit at the limiter when you could have a little more room there without shifting.
Another advantage is if you swap out your stock 3.15 FD diff (DCT) for a 3.62 FD diff
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      01-17-2013, 10:55 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
Another advantage is if you swap out your stock 3.15 FD diff (DCT) for a 3.62 FD diff
Very good point - or putting a 4.10 in a 6MT. Having that extra RPM would keep the speed per gear pretty much the same between the previous diff and stock redline, and new diff + raised redline.
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      01-17-2013, 01:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
Another advantage is if you swap out your stock 3.15 FD diff (DCT) for a 3.62 FD diff
I love my 8600 RPM limit. If I had a diff this would also be a no brainer option.
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      01-17-2013, 01:50 PM   #14
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I'm considering getting a 4.10 but I already have serious traction issues in 1st and 2nd..

Maybe after I get the 295/30/19's it will be more feasible.. With the 275/35/19 it's not happening.
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      01-17-2013, 02:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
I'm considering getting a 4.10 but I already have serious traction issues in 1st and 2nd..

Maybe after I get the 295/30/19's it will be more feasible.. With the 275/35/19 it's not happening.
I never understood this. I never had a signle traction issue with my M3 from completely stock all the way to FBO+tune. Maybe I'd spin first gear in sub-50 degree temps, but anything over that it was always a dead hook. Even with a blower I would hook perfect from 2nd gear on in anything over 50 degrees Maybe the super sports are that good !
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      01-17-2013, 03:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erm324 View Post
I never understood this. I never had a signle traction issue with my M3 from completely stock all the way to FBO+tune. Maybe I'd spin first gear in sub-50 degree temps, but anything over that it was always a dead hook. Even with a blower I would hook perfect from 2nd gear on in anything over 50 degrees Maybe the super sports are that good !
Lol, I have the supersports too.

It's about 50 degrees here. Definite traction issues in first and a good squeal and sideways action for a sec shifting into second. Sometimes punching it in 2nd mid rpm will cause them to break loose too. If I floor it in first anything above 3,000 ish RPM it will just spin the tires instantly. Although today I got a surprisingly good launch and hooked up in first (rev's dropped under 3k during clutch engagement).

Which tune? one of the benefits of our tune is the massive torque increase midrange, particularly on cars with changes to the stock primaries.
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Last edited by BPMSport; 01-17-2013 at 03:22 PM..
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      01-17-2013, 03:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erm324 View Post
I never understood this. I never had a signle traction issue with my M3 from completely stock all the way to FBO+tune. Maybe I'd spin first gear in sub-50 degree temps, but anything over that it was always a dead hook. Even with a blower I would hook perfect from 2nd gear on in anything over 50 degrees Maybe the super sports are that good !
Although I agree with you, Mike does run the Super Sports on his as well.
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      01-17-2013, 03:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
I'm considering getting a 4.10 but I already have serious traction issues in 1st and 2nd..

Maybe after I get the 295/30/19's it will be more feasible.. With the 275/35/19 it's not happening.
I'm currently running PSS in 255/285 widths (18" wheels) and I don't have traction issues. However, I'm also not running the stock suspension (RS1's with 500/800 lbf/in spring rates) so perhaps the different spring rates and different damper setting have helped with traction in the lower gears?

With an 8600 rpm redline and 285/35-18 rear tires, 2nd gear hits 60 mph at redline with the 3.62 diff
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      01-17-2013, 03:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckRodgers View Post
I love my 8600 RPM limit. If I had a diff this would also be a no brainer option.
Diff swaps are one of my favorite mods! On my old track prep'd e46 M3 the 4.10 diff was by far my favorite mod - made the gearing perfect for Summit Point Main and VIR
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      01-17-2013, 03:24 PM   #20
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Here it is.. going to be more aggressive when I try next time, or maybe I will change the LC RPM to 3,800 - 4,000. Pretty damn good launch though.. usually I get wheel hop which drives me nuts. Probably could have done better if I wasn't video taping my own launch and shifting too! lol



Here's a vid one of our customers sent us that we tuned a couple days ago.. You can see how much traction he has
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Last edited by BPMSport; 01-17-2013 at 03:30 PM..
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      01-17-2013, 11:22 PM   #21
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Have to agree with others. Have the 3.45 diff and the raised redline definitely helps on or off the track. Rocking 295's in the back and rarely have traction issues
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      01-17-2013, 11:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klammer View Post
Have to agree with others. Have the 3.45 diff and the raised redline definitely helps on or off the track. Rocking 295's in the back and rarely have traction issues
i agree as well. the point to going fast is to not spin the tires. if i try and make my car do crazy stuff it will. if im modulating the throttle properly to get maximum forward momentum not just putting it on the floor it hooks. its the same with corners. if you yank the wheel and stand on the throttle it will oversteer thats what we did when we were 16 and didnt know any better.
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