Girl Talk Needs Help Going To The Track!

[LiM3y]

Wheel alignment tool: HTTP://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp - 12.95

Cordless torque wrench: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2878_200342878

This has worked well all season, the stickers on the side come off. The 24V means it has plenty of power, the batteries charge quickly and there are two in the box. I haven't managed to over torque my lug bolts with this yet, so it is easy to use to tighten up and then finish with a torque wrench when the car is dropped.

[linsm3]

Thanks for the above info, I didn't think about the Brembos not fitting. Also, it sure does add up but what is life for if not to have fun.

[Gearhead999s]

Originally Posted by linsm3

Thanks for the above info, I didn't think about the Brembos not fitting. Also, it sure does add up but what is life for if not to have fun.

The TRMtorsports wheels in 18x10 @ 25p will clear the 380 BBK with no problems.I test fitted them on a huge AP setup and they had tons of clearance.




I think I paid $319 a wheel from Tirerack.They are a great buy for a dedicated trackwheel

[signes]

If the TE37s fit (sounds like they do from what aus said) I would go with those. Great track wheel, forged and very light. Curious to hear how much clearance there is.

[M3Rolly]

Originally Posted by signes

Tire Rack's statement is correct but refers to new rubber. A slick tire has the most grip and a shaved tire will also offer more grip than a comparable tire with full tread blocks. That all assumes new rubber. A tire worn down through use to the same tread depth as a shaved tire will not offer the same grip. Doesn't mean you can't use it, just be prepared for a potentially very slippery feel. For your first track day it should be fine.

Btw this is my first time on a race course. I just realized that my treads in the rear are just about down to their wear indicators. Should I worry about a tire blowing out on the race track? What's the worst that can happen. I also notice that the safety checklist asks if tires are more than 2/32". Will i be allowed on the track if rear treads are only 2/32"?

[skierman64]

Originally Posted by M3Rolly

Btw this is my first time on a race course. I just realized that my treads in the rear are just about down to their wear indicators. Should I worry about a tire blowing out on the race track? What's the worst that can happen. I also notice that the safety checklist asks if tires are more than 2/32". Will i be allowed on the track if rear treads are only 2/32"?

You can run the tires down until cords are showing with no risk of a blowout. Once you see cords then you need to stay off the track. I do this with every set of track tires I've ever owned (as do many others) with no issues.

Will you pass tech? I don't know, it depends on who's inspecting. Usually they don't look at the tread at tech, in fact many advanced guys and instructors use slicks with no tread at all. I'd contact the lead tech guy and find out his philosphy.

Tell him you will inspect the tires after every run and that you will stop running if you cord the tires.

What track are you running?

[M3Rolly]

Thanks for the advice, skierman. I'll be running on the Autoclub (aka California) Speedway in Fontana, CA. There will be instructors to teach first-timers like myself. Do you know how to look for tires worn down to their cords and what lb-ft do we torque our lugs to?

Thanks,
M3Rolly

[linsm3]

Originally Posted by Gearhead999s

The TRMtorsports wheels in 18x10 @ 25p will clear the 380 BBK with no problems.I test fitted them on a huge AP setup and they had tons of clearance.




I think I paid $319 a wheel from Tirerack.They are a great buy for a dedicated trackwheel

Thanks will look into this.

[aus]

The TRMotorsport wheels are only at TireRack. They've been known to be a little soft and easy to bend if you go off.

These D-Force are another option and are suppose to be pretty strong and are very light. http://store.bimmerworld.com/d-force...4690-p894.aspx

A jack pad is another thing to consider since you're getting a floor jack to fit into the jack pads under the car.

[Finnegan]

Since we're on the topic of track wheels for Lin, does anyone have experience with Apex? They're cast (but not gravity cast, think they're "flow formed"), lightweight, and reasonably priced. Certainly < forged, but you can probably replace three of these for what a forged wheel will cost....(~325/wheel for 18x10 @~20 lbs).

If you don't want to beat up your nice street wheels and want something for the track they seem like they might fit the bill. Or maybe not.

[linsm3]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Since we're on the topic of track wheels for Lin, does anyone have experience with Apex? They're cast (but not gravity cast, think they're "flow formed"), lightweight, and reasonably priced. Certainly < forged, but you can probably replace three of these for what a forged wheel will cost....(~325/wheel for 18x10 @~20 lbs).

If you don't want to beat up your nice street wheels and want something for the track they seem like they might fit the bill. Or maybe not.

Thanks Ron and now I am totally confused about the wheels, would like to get them if I go again before the season is over as I agree I don't want to beat up my new PS2'S, not to mention my lovely BBS-LM's

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by linsm3

Thanks Ron and now I am totally confused about the wheels, would like to get them if I go again before the season is over as I agree I don't want to beat up my new PS2'S, not to mention my lovely BBS-LM's

Well that makes two of us Lin! I'm not concerned about tires, but my "nice" stock 19s are in perfect condition and I'd like to keep it that way.

I don't want to pay 3-4K for a set of wheels so that they're "forged" (which I know are > cast) for what will amount to a few track days/year if, for example, the Apex wheels will do the job and are safe.

I also think it's probably a reality that if you track the car whatever wheels you have aren't going to be bulletproof and you'll probably bend or damage a wheel sooner or later. A ~300 dollar vs. 1K dollar replacement seems to make more sense.

But only if these are safe wheels. Since neither you nor I are competitive racers they may be just the ticket until we hit the big league (yeah, like that's going to happen to me ).

Here's the link to the Apex vendor thread. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401416 They're not bad to look at either, but with your 380 Brembos finding a wheel to fit the brakes becomes the biggest hurdle. I'll have to search a bit, but now I seem to recall the Apex wheel will not work with those monster brakes. That means you have to search mainly on fitment not price.

EDIT: Apex will not work for you Lin! "All the 18" wheel barrels were modifed in order to clear a stoptech 380mm BBK. They do not clear brembo 380mm kits." Gearhead999 make a recommendation for wheels that would fit. If so, that's the advice to take!

EDIT 2: If you plan to track more than a couple times, then wheels probably make sense. For a single outing, or for your first outing, you'll be fine with what you're running now IMO. Others in this thread seem to agree. Does that simplyfy things for the first day a couple weeks from now? Just do it, then figure out where to go with wheels and tires next....

[skierman64]

Originally Posted by M3Rolly

Thanks for the advice, skierman. I'll be running on the Autoclub (aka California) Speedway in Fontana, CA. There will be instructors to teach first-timers like myself. Do you know how to look for tires worn down to their cords and what lb-ft do we torque our lugs to?

Thanks,
M3Rolly

It will be quite obvious. The tire will look something like these examples. These examples are further than you will take your tires if you check them after each 20-30 minute session.

BMW recommends 88 ft-lbs I believe. I set my wrench on 90 ft-lbs. Be sure not to look at the metric scale on your wrench as I did one time.

http://ca.wrs.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0WTf2h...nid/749183744/

http://www.pbase.com/jeffdoble/image/92401214/large.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/grant_subaru/3988924266/

[aus]

The APEX wheels are well regarded by many people who track their cars on Bimmeforums. There's 10.5" version coming out that will work for our cars with a small spacer. They would work well with the 9.5" in front that they already have.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1496045

I decided to get the APEX wheels (9.5" front/10" rear) since I could get a set of wheel/TPMS/tires NT05) for around $2,000 total, vs. the $2,700 for CCW's or $3,000 for the TE37-SL. Obviously they're not forged so it's not a fair comparison. The D-Force are a good comparable wheel if you have a Brembo kit; I think you'll need a small spacer with them though.

If you're only going to do a couple events a year, you're probably better off just using your stock wheels or getting a set of stock 18" used. If you really want to save your tires, then you need camber plates, especially with PS2's. They have really soft sidewall's and roll over easily.

[garek]

Originally Posted by linsm3

Also, it sure does add up but what is life for if not to have fun.

I hope this suggestion is not too late, but I think maybe you should perhaps only get the bare essential stuff now. Go through the track day, and make sure you like tracking your car. Then if you decide you like it, and will do it again, then start getting the other stuff. Otherwise, you could end up spending a fair amount of money on stuff you won't use.

This is what I'd consider essential for the first time:

1. Helmet
2. Torque wrench + 17MM socket + 3 inch extension
3. Ice chest with water/sports drinks
4. Foldable chair
5. Sunscreen + Hat

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by aus

The APEX wheels are well regarded by many people who track their cars on Bimmeforums. There's 10.5" version coming out that will work for our cars with a small spacer. They would work well with the 9.5" in front that they already have.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1496045

I decided to get the APEX wheels (9.5" front/10" rear) since I could get a set of wheel/TPMS/tires NT05) for around $2,000 total, vs. the $2,700 for CCW's or $3,000 for the TE37-SL. Obviously they're not forged so it's not a fair comparison. The D-Force are a good comparable wheel if you have a Brembo kit; I think you'll need a small spacer with them though.

If you're only going to do a couple events a year, you're probably better off just using your stock wheels or getting a set of stock 18" used. If you really want to save your tires, then you need camber plates, especially with PS2's. They have really soft sidewall's and roll over easily.

Thanks Aus! Good info for Lin and for me as well!

Originally Posted by garek

I hope this suggestion is not too late, but I think maybe you should perhaps only get the bare essential stuff now. Go through the track day, and make sure you like tracking your car. Then if you decide you like it, and will do it again, then start getting the other stuff. Otherwise, you could end up spending a fair amount of money on stuff you won't use.

This is what I'd consider essential for the first time:

1. Helmet
2. Torque wrench + 17MM socket + 3 inch extension
3. Ice chest with water/sports drinks
4. Foldable chair
5. Sunscreen + Hat

+1 Totally agree.

[drivendriver]

Originally Posted by garek

I hope this suggestion is not too late, but I think maybe you should perhaps only get the bare essential stuff now. Go through the track day, and make sure you like tracking your car. Then if you decide you like it, and will do it again, then start getting the other stuff. Otherwise, you could end up spending a fair amount of money on stuff you won't use.

This is what I'd consider essential for the first time:

1. Helmet
2. Torque wrench + 17MM socket + 3 inch extension
3. Ice chest with water/sports drinks
4. Foldable chair
5. Sunscreen + Hat

Best advice in this thread.

The others got a bit carried away because we rarely see women in this forum, and women don't usually ask for our advice anyway .

[LiM3y]

Originally Posted by garek

I hope this suggestion is not too late, but I think maybe you should perhaps only get the bare essential stuff now. Go through the track day, and make sure you like tracking your car. Then if you decide you like it, and will do it again, then start getting the other stuff. Otherwise, you could end up spending a fair amount of money on stuff you won't use.

This is what I'd consider essential for the first time:

1. Helmet
2. Torque wrench + 17MM socket + 3 inch extension
3. Ice chest with water/sports drinks
4. Foldable chair
5. Sunscreen + Hat

Garek - linsM3 has been and gone...she's hooked...LOL!

I think a set of track rims, tires and the equipment to change are next, then the brake pads...which nedds a hex wrench, G-clamp and a couple of screw drivers on top of the rest.

[linsm3]

Originally Posted by drivendriver

Best advice in this thread.

The others got a bit carried away because we rarely see women in this forum, and women don't usually ask for our advice anyway .

all advice is not too late, it's not till next monday. I have the basics, helmet and all that other stuff but am concerned about the tires and my wheels/rims. The BBS are really nice and I haven't nicked them and would be really upset if I did. You guys have given me great advice, I actually copied everything including the links and have it in a binder and will bring to the track and look it over more during my sit out times in the pit! I am afraid I am already hooked, the one day at M school did it and now I look for the sight line or whatever its called whenever I approach a turn. I think one suggestion of getting coilovers will be next along with a different set of wheels. From what I get taking the PS2's out for once or twice won't hurt but it makes sense to not use them. I can have the guys at IND help me with the drop and spacers I have on, that is definitely not something I feel qualified to even talk about with a wheel set up. I have so much to learn but I already have the love of driving fast so at least that's something.

[Crazy Bimmer]

I personally think your wheels will be fine, you wont ruin them.

I'd assume they get more abuse from these Chicago roads more than the pavement on the track.

[drivendriver]

Originally Posted by linsm3

all advice is not too late, it's not till next monday. I have the basics, helmet and all that other stuff but am concerned about the tires and my wheels/rims. The BBS are really nice and I haven't nicked them and would be really upset if I did. You guys have given me great advice, I actually copied everything including the links and have it in a binder and will bring to the track and look it over more during my sit out times in the pit! I am afraid I am already hooked, the one day at M school did it and now I look for the sight line or whatever its called whenever I approach a turn. I think one suggestion of getting coilovers will be next along with a different set of wheels. From what I get taking the PS2's out for once or twice won't hurt but it makes sense to not use them. I can have the guys at IND help me with the drop and spacers I have on, that is definitely not something I feel qualified to even talk about with a wheel set up. I have so much to learn but I already have the love of driving fast so at least that's something.

IMO, you should learn to drive the car as it is, on street tires. Once you become consistent and your times reach a plateau, then you should think of upgrading. But, frankly, the car does not NEED coilovers, or track tires, or 275 tires all around, or stiffer springs, etc, etc. All these things may give you more confidence but, because they will make your life easier, they will slow down your development. The truth is, the car is fine as it is. Of course, it can be improved for the track, but making the car better is the easy part. I think many drivers don't set their priorities right. If your car is never good enough for you and you're focusing on improving it, you're probably not focusing enough on improving your driving skills.

Think of Top Gear's "reasonably priced car". Almost any car is track-worthy as long as you know its limit. And the M3's limit is pretty high, even 100% stock.

Having said that, if you want to change something, I think that brake pads and tires should be at the top of your list. When your instructor thinks that you can benefit from track tires, he will probably let you know (if he hasn't done so already). One of the most important things about driving is learning to feel how much grip is left in your tires, and you will learn that much quicker on street tires.

Really, all you really need at this point are your car and lots of liquids. Personally, I also find 5-Hour Energy shots very effective when I have to get up at 5AM .

[linsm3]

ok counting the days till this monday heard it is going to be 93 with chance of rain, GREAT