want it lower and ride/handle like stock

[Z K]

Originally Posted by W Cole

I believe Ohlins states 30k kilometers. I am not sure why this is so soon. When I spoke to the KW reps at bimmerfest they said they have dyno'd V3s with over 100k miles that were still fine. They said to only service them if they started to leak. I see no reason why the Ohlins would be any different - they are probably just being conservative. I would think that as long as they aren't leaking and the fluid hasn't worn out so much that you are underdampened then there would be no reason to service them.

Ohlins is 30k kilometers which is about 20k miles. It makes sense as they are higher end dampeners, the road feeling and reaction is much faster and smoother than the KW. The Ohlins is very street friendly offering comfort and performance in a sleek package but you pay the price for that in the more frequent servicing.

KW V3 is designed primarily for street use so the service intervals are longer (about 60k miles). They do not have as much road feel and smoothness as the Ohlins. No dampener I've driven sucks up bumps as well as the Ohlins. It gives you great confidence on uneven roads and on track.

How long a shock lasts also depends on the roads you drive. The more bumpy the roads, the faster the shock will wear out. Generally you will feel the degradation in shock dampening and rebound well before the shocks start to leak... if the shocks are leaking, they are blown - pushed well past the point of "worn out".

[Hujan]

I'm enjoying this discussion, guys. Learning a lot.

I talked to MRF and they recommended going with H&R springs, shaved guide supports, and the E36 bump stops. (Said the Dinan rear shock mounts are unnecessary.)

I've noticed that a lot of people seem to enjoy the combo of springs, E36 bump stops, and shaved guide supports.

[Black Gold]

Good luck man, but those springs are too low and will cause deteriorated handling and ride.

You reqlly should go with dinan. Others will drop the car too much and not do enough to counteract the lost suspension travel and compromised suspension geometry.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Z K

Ohlins is 30k kilometers which is about 20k miles.

If that's the case, they should not call it a street setup. Servicing that frequently make it pretty much a track setup because everytime you have to service it that means downtime for your car. Can't have a daily driver that needs to be down for at least a week to get dampers rebuilt.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by KennyPowers

Good luck man, but those springs are too low and will cause deteriorated handling and ride.

You reqlly should go with dinan. Others will drop the car too much and not do enough to counteract the lost suspension travel and compromised suspension geometry.

That was my original intent, but I'm hearing conflicting information regarding whether it will actually lower a ZCP car at all. I originally thought it would give me 0.5" drop relative to the stock ZCP setup, but others have indicated it won't lower a ZCP car.

Lots of conflicting info.

Edit: The photos of the LMB E90 in this thread suggest, at least to my eye, that there's at least a modest drop.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Hujan

That was my original intent, but I'm hearing conflicting information regarding whether it will actually lower a ZCP car at all. I originally thought it would give me 0.5" drop relative to the stock ZCP setup, but others have indicated it won't lower a ZCP car.

Lots of conflicting info.

Edit: The photos of the LMB E90 in this thread suggest, at least to my eye, that there's at least a modest drop.

The pictures of the car on the track are deceiving because the side of the car shown in the picture is being pushed down from the force of the weight shifting during the turn. Look at the other pictures where the car is off the track and it looks like pretty much OEM ride height.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

If that's the case, they should not call it a street setup. Servicing that frequently make it pretty much a track setup because everytime you have to service it that means downtime for your car. Can't have a daily driver that needs to be down for at least a week to get dampers rebuilt.

It is the R&T - Street and Track. They recommend servicing it every 20k miles but your mileage may vary. If you drive on very smooth roads, the interval may be 30k... it really depends on the roads you drive on. Any high end dampener set up is designed for no more than 30k service intervals. Everything from Motons to JRZ to Ohlins etc.

Unfortunately for the dampener to work so well, it needs to be serviced often. Call it more of a "track" set up if you will but that is price you pay for a great performing and comfortable set up. Ohlins are OEM for Ferrari, Lamborghini and Pagani but maybe those owners don't mind the frequent servicing?

I went with KW V3 for the M3 but the Ohlins on my previous car were so much better it isn't even a comparison. But I can live with the rougher ride on the KWs and save some money.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by Z K

It is the R&T - Street and Track. They recommend servicing it every 20k miles but your mileage may vary. If you drive on very smooth roads, the interval may be 30k... it really depends on the roads you drive on. Any high end dampener set up is designed for no more than 30k service intervals. Everything from Motons to JRZ to Ohlins etc.

Unfortunately for the dampener to work so well, it needs to be serviced often. Call it more of a "track" set up if you will but that is price you pay for a great performing and comfortable set up. Ohlins are OEM for Ferrari, Lamborghini and Pagani but maybe those owners don't mind the frequent servicing?

I went with KW V3 for the M3 but the Ohlins on my previous car were so much better it isn't even a comparison. But I can live with the rougher ride on the KWs and save some money.

When was the last time you heard of someone using their Ferrari, Lambo or as a DD? If its not a Dd, the servicing is not an issue because you can withstand the downtime.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

The pictures of the car on the track are deceiving because the side of the car shown in the picture is being pushed down from the force of the weight shifting during the turn. Look at the other pictures where the car is off the track and it looks like pretty much OEM ride height.

Bah, you might be right. Especially when you look at photos of cars lowered on Eibach, which uses springs that are a touch lower than Dinan (at least in front). Check out the pics AW E92 in this post. It is ZCP lowered on Eibach springs. That's pretty much the drop I had in mind with Dinan.

[Black Gold]

Originally Posted by Hujan

That was my original intent, but I'm hearing conflicting information regarding whether it will actually lower a ZCP car at all. I originally thought it would give me 0.5" drop relative to the stock ZCP setup, but others have indicated it won't lower a ZCP car.

Lots of conflicting info.

Edit: The photos of the LMB E90 in this thread suggest, at least to my eye, that there's at least a modest drop.

And that's fine. But it's like anything, you have to live with the consequences. You cannot drop the car past dinan / zcp heights, keep the oem shocks and maintain the same quality handling and ride quality.

The lower ride height you are seeking WILL cause ride quality and handling issues. The only question is, is the benefit of being lower worth it.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by KennyPowers

And that's fine. But it's like anything, you have to live with the consequences. You cannot drop the car past dinan / zcp heights, keep the oem shocks and maintain the same quality handling and ride quality.

The lower ride height you are seeking WILL cause ride quality and handling issues. The only question is, is the benefit of being lower worth it.

I'm beginning to think you're right. So what would you do if you were in my shoes: Go with a Dinan Stage (1/2/3) or leave it bone stock?

[Black Gold]

Originally Posted by Hujan

I'm beginning to think you're right. So what would you do if you were in my shoes: Go with a Dinan Stage (1/2/3) or leave it bone stock?

if your car has the competition package I would leave it totally stock. I personally think that ride height with those wheels are perfect looking.

if you want better handling, the best mod is likely camber plates

beyond that, I wouldn't do anything unless you wanted to step all the way up to an ohlins coilover. anything less will require handling or ride comfort compromises

stick with OEM

[Denk]

Originally Posted by KennyPowers

if your car has the competition package I would leave it totally stock. I personally think that ride height with those wheels are perfect looking.

if you want better handling, the best mod is likely camber plates

beyond that, I wouldn't do anything unless you wanted to step all the way up to an ohlins coilover. anything less will require handling or ride comfort compromises

stick with OEM

+1 Leave that poor ZCP suspension alone, it's a beautiful thing.

[Hujan]

I think you guys have convinced me. In looking over the threads on spacers, I like how the ZCP cars look with stock suspension and some spacers. Thinking maybe I'll stick with that and not tinker with what M Division did to the suspension.

I assume you guys don't see an issue with spacers?

[Black Gold]

Spacers are fine as long as you stay with 10mm or larger. U need the hub centric lip in order to have enough surface area for he wheels to mount on so there is no issues with wobbling.

Turner makes nice spacers

[W Cole]

I think you'll probably want to run 15/12mm spacers, but FYI I have 5mm on the front of my car with no issues. There is still enough hub protruding for positive fitment. This is with HRE wheels, depending the bevel/chamfer of the wheel and amount of hub protruding your experience may vary.

[Hujan]

Thanks guys. I appreciate you talking me back from the ledge of suspension modification. I've been flogging my M all day (thanks BPM Sport!) and really loving the stock ZCP configuration.

I was planning on Turner spacers in either 12.5 all around or 15/12.5. Both setups look pretty dang good to me.

I'm assuming they are easy enough to install yourself? (I am a reasonably competent mechanic.) I was planning on following EAS's how-to.

[Denk]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Thanks guys. I appreciate you talking me back from the ledge of suspension modification. I've been flogging my M all day (thanks BPM Sport!) and really loving the stock ZCP configuration.

I was planning on Turner spacers in either 12.5 all around or 15/12.5. Both setups look pretty dang good to me.

I'm assuming they are easy enough to install yourself? (I am a reasonably competent mechanic.) I was planning on following EAS's how-to.

Piece of cake to install.

I know that TMS and MS 10mm spacers fit flush on OEM wheels and hub...they don't sit flush on some aftermarket wheels...if you find yourself looking at that size. TMS spacers are tits! I've got 2 sets of 12.5mm TMS spacers available, PM me if interested.

[Hujan]

Originally Posted by Denk

Piece of cake to install.

I know that TMS and MS 10mm spacers fit flush on OEM wheels and hub...they don't sit flush on some aftermarket wheels...if you find yourself looking at that size. TMS spacers are tits! I've got 2 sets of 12.5mm TMS spacers available, PM me if interested.

Aw, man. Just ordered 2 sets of 12.5 mm TMS spacers last night.

[W Cole]

Originally Posted by Hujan

Aw, man. Just ordered 2 sets of 12.5 mm TMS spacers last night.

You should be fine with the 12mm. FWIW I have ran MS 12mm spacers with HRE wheels without issue.

10mm are a "tuner size" since IIRC the hub itself is 10mm long they rely on the chamfer in the wheel for clearance. If the wheel does not have a large enough chamfer to accept the spacer you may run into issues.

[Black Gold]

Originally Posted by W Cole

You should be fine with the 12mm. FWIW I have ran MS 12mm spacers with HRE wheels without issue.

10mm are a "tuner size" since IIRC the hub itself is 10mm long they rely on the chamfer in the wheel for clearance. If the wheel does not have a large enough chamfer to accept the spacer you may run into issues.

correct

[OerdingE93]

Not trying to thread jack...

But I'm selling a kw sleeve kit that I need to move fast to support a few new mods I just purchased (akra slip on / CKS coilovers) PM me for details.