pass inspection after code cleared?

[JamesKilcarr]

thanks everyone for all the help

[AW750Li]

Hey guys I'm having trouble passing new york state inspection. I have a bpm sport stage 2 tune and I passed inspection last year with the same exact set up and tune with no problems at all. The car was sitting for a couple of days and I drove it up the block to get inspected. It said readiness fail, monitor o2 not ready, and monitor secondary air not ready. I hope someone can lead me in the direction, thank you in advance.

[BrewRifle]

Contact Benvo and I'm sure he'll get it all sorted out.

[AW750Li]

Originally Posted by BrewRifle

Contact Benvo and I'm sure he'll get it all sorted out.

I did a couple days ago and haven't received a response yet

[Flea7]

Originally Posted by AW750Li

Hey guys I'm having trouble passing new york state inspection. I have a bpm sport stage 2 tune and I passed inspection last year with the same exact set up and tune with no problems at all. The car was sitting for a couple of days and I drove it up the block to get inspected. It said readiness fail, monitor o2 not ready, and monitor secondary air not ready. I hope someone can lead me in the direction, thank you in advance.

Did you read post #7 by Mike?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by AW750Li

I did a couple days ago and haven't received a response yet

Getting to your PM now.. If you can't reach me, always try email or my cell - I check PM's last and they often build up over a week.

Since your secondary air is not ready, all you should have to do is start the car cold and let it idle for 10 minutes, drive it around normally until operating temp, and then park it. Wait for it to be cold again and repeat. After a couple cycles of this, the SA system will go ready and you'll be able to pass no problem. This is provided that there isn't any issue with the secondary air system. Based on your PM, it looks like you passed without any issues last year with the same setup.

Anyway, try what I outlined above and keep me updated. Of course we will help you with this even though it's not related to the software.

I also suggest purchasing an over the counter OBD II scanner because then you will have a definite answer before heading to the station.

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3160-Di...eywords=innova

But for an end user, this will work just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3030-Di...eywords=innova

[jahn_baakus]

This is really helpful.

Does anyone know whether you can split up step 1 from the rest? For example, if I go over 3K RPM or can't stay in the one of the speed bands, can I stop, turn the car off, turn the car back on immediately and then restart at step 2, 3, or 4 as needed?

Steps posted by Mike Benvo earlier:
1. Engine cold start, idling, approximately 3 minutes.
2. Constant driving at 20 to 30 MPH, approximately 4 minutes.
3. Constant driving at 40 to 60 MPH, approximately 15 minutes (sufficient vehicle coasting phases included).
4. Engine idling, approximately 5 minutes.

I've tried following different drive cycle instructions a few nights in a row now but my o2 sensor is STILL not ready. Sigh.

[Godchild14]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

Many people have asked me:
1) How long will it take for the light to come on?
2) Why do some cars trigger the light sooner than others?
3) Will my driving style affect how long it takes to trigger the light?

Here are the answers of how setting readiness works. The CEL is thrown after readiness FAILS and may require MULTIPLE drive cycles to ensure that all testing conditions are met:

An example of a drive cycle is as follows:
1. Engine cold start, idling, approximately 3 minutes.

Evaluated:

• Secondary Air System
• Evaporative Leak Detection (LDP Equipped Vehicles)

2. Constant driving at 20 to 30 MPH, approximately 4 minutes.

Evaluated:

• Oxygen Sensors - Achieved “Closed Loop” Operation
• Oxygen Sensors - Response Time and Switching Time (Control Frequency)

3. Constant driving at 40 to 60 MPH, approximately 15 minutes (sufficient vehicle coasting phases included).

Evaluated:

• Catalytic Converter Efficiency
• Oxygen Sensors - Response Time and Switching Time (Control Frequency)

4. Engine idling, approximately 5 minutes.

Evaluated:
Tank-Leak Diagnosis (DMTL Equipped Vehicles after KL 15 is switched OFF) US Spec M3's are DMTL Equipped and KL15 means ignition on.

Now the reason of why some cars take MUCH longer than others to throw the error light - Driving Style!

The diagnostic sequence illustrated above will be interrupted if:
• The engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM.
• Large fluctuations in the accelerator pedal position.
• The driving speed exceeds 60 MPH.

The Service Engine Soon / Increased Emissions! warning will be illuminated under the following conditions:
• Upon the completion of the next consecutive driving cycle where the previously faulted system is monitored again and the emissions relevant
fault is again present.

• Immediately if a “Catalyst Damaging” fault occurs (Misfire Detection).

The illumination of the light is performed in accordance with the Federal Test Procedure (FTP) which requires the lamp to be illuminated when:

• A malfunction of a component that can affect the emission performance of the vehicle occurs and causes emissions to exceed 1.5 times the standards required by the (FTP).
• Manufacturer-defined specifications are exceeded.
• An implausible input signal is generated.
• Catalyst deterioration causes HC-emissions to exceed a limit equivalent to 1.5 times the standard (FTP).
• Misfire faults occur.
• A leak is detected in the evaporative system, or “purging” is defective.
• ECM fails to enter closed-loop oxygen sensor control operation within a specified time interval.
• Engine control or automatic transmission control enters a "limp home" operating mode.
• Ignition is on (KL15) position before cranking = Bulb Check Function.

There you have it. Everything you need to know about readiness testing, how it's tested, and why some cars take longer than others to record an error.

Thanks for the info

[WiFiGuy]

Originally Posted by jahn_baakus

This is really helpful.

Does anyone know whether you can split up step 1 from the rest? For example, if I go over 3K RPM or can't stay in the one of the speed bands, can I stop, turn the car off, turn the car back on immediately and then restart at step 2, 3, or 4 as needed?

Steps posted by Mike Benvo earlier:
1. Engine cold start, idling, approximately 3 minutes.
2. Constant driving at 20 to 30 MPH, approximately 4 minutes.
3. Constant driving at 40 to 60 MPH, approximately 15 minutes (sufficient vehicle coasting phases included).
4. Engine idling, approximately 5 minutes.

I've tried following different drive cycle instructions a few nights in a row now but my o2 sensor is STILL not ready. Sigh.

I would like to know the same thing. I've been trying the past couple nights myself late at night and no dice. I'm wondering if a dyno is the best way to get this done?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by WiFiGuy

I would like to know the same thing. I've been trying the past couple nights myself late at night and no dice. I'm wondering if a dyno is the best way to get this done?

You can split them up. Drive normally for a week with a number of full cold to warm cycles and that should be enough to do the trick.

Also note that heavy throttle fluctuations, high rpm use, and speeds above 60 will slow this process.