Problem! - Codes - Throttle Actuator?

[happos2]

So, on my way home from work today, about to pull into my driveway, engine goes into limp mode. My car is tuned so I was able to read the codes with the tuning software. I have the following codes:

1) 2B39 Combustion misfire with cut-out cyl 5
// 2) 2B3A Combustion misfire with cut-out cyl 6
// 3) 2B3B Combustion misfire with cut-out cyl 7
// 4) 2B3C Combustion misfire with cut-out cyl 8
// 5) 2B41 Combustion misfire with cut-out several cyl
// 6) 2B57 Motor emergency programm activated
// 7) 2796 Motor emergency programm activated
// 8) 2B21 Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1

Prior to my car being tuned, it was pointed out the the 2B21 code was already stored (which tells me my throttle actuator was on its way out).

That being said, are these likely the codes that it will throw if the TA goes, or is there something else that I am missing?

Also, if I turn off the car and start it back up, I don't get this problem (haven't driven it out of the driveway though).

I was suppose to go down to Kentucky this weekend, might be taking the wife's car...

[edwinm3]

That's a handful of codes there, are you still on warranty? I wouldn't drive her far without checking the issue first

[BPMSport]

Actuator is bad. Replace and you'll be good to go.

This is a common failure point with these cars (same with the idle control valve and fuel pressure sensor).

Edit: A bad throttle actuator/ICV/fuel pressure sensor will cause misfires in many cases, and this will trigger the emergency program.

[09GT]

What year and mileage do you have on the car? Any prior symptoms?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by 09GT

What year and mileage do you have on the car? Any prior symptoms?

I think he has about 55K IIRC

[MilehighM3]

Well you have throttle actuator faults for bank 1, and misfires for bank 2. So either both are failing and you have no faults for bank 2, or something else is going on. How old are your plugs? What's your fuel quality like?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

Well you have throttle actuator faults for bank 1, and misfires for bank 2. So either both are failing and you have no faults for bank 2, or something else is going on. How old are your plugs? What's your fuel quality like?

Throttle actuators failing on one side can potentially cause misfires on the opposing bank.

As another example, a bad valve in bank one will probably cause the car to throw misfire faults for the cylinders in some of the cylinders in the other bank as well. It depends on the specific moment in which the fault was recorded.

First replace bad actuator, clear faults and then readdress is the proper diagnostic procedure.

If plugs have > 30k, recommended to replace them as well.

[happos2]

Originally Posted by edwinm3

That's a handful of codes there, are you still on warranty? I wouldn't drive her far without checking the issue first

CarMax warranty with a $500 deductable. Will take it over there when it happens again (new Actuator is $800, so I save $300)

Originally Posted by 09GT

What year and mileage do you have on the car? Any prior symptoms?

03/08 with 55k miles on it. I had this similar of a problem last year sometime. Restarted the car and it was gone. This time I actually read the codes before restarting the car (even though they would be stored). I have since cleared the codes and haven't had a problem again (drove about 300 miles this weekend, no problem!!

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

Well you have throttle actuator faults for bank 1, and misfires for bank 2. So either both are failing and you have no faults for bank 2, or something else is going on. How old are your plugs? What's your fuel quality like?

I think mike answered before. I bought the car with 40,000 miles on it, I need to go ask for the sevice history before hand (I lost my copy) to determine when the plugs were changed. They are getting close to be changing anywas so when I replace the TAV, I will do the plugs as well. Fuel is 93 Speedway / Shell. Never had a problem with fuel in any other cars using this combo.

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

Throttle actuators failing on one side can potentially cause misfires on the opposing bank.

As another example, a bad valve in bank one will probably cause the car to throw misfire faults for the cylinders in some of the cylinders in the other bank as well. It depends on the specific moment in which the fault was recorded.

First replace bad actuator, clear faults and then readdress is the proper diagnostic procedure.

If plugs have > 30k, recommended to replace them as well.

Thanks Mike for keeping up with the thread and explaining what we discussed. I didn't have service where I was.

Now I got an increased emmisions light, no limp mode. Sounds like O2 sensor might be going bad since I have Stage II which should stop this from happening with my test pipes (but not if the actual sensor goes bad). I will read the codes tonight and let you know what they are!

[happos2]

And thanks for everyone trying to help me out. I will say that since I cleared the codes and driven a few hundred miles. I haven't had a problem. I am sure the problem still exists, but it will take some time to resurface. I will take the car in for the TVA at that time!

[Lorde]

Originally Posted by happos2

Now I got an increased emmisions light, no limp mode. Sounds like O2 sensor might be going bad since I have Stage II which should stop this from happening with my test pipes (but not if the actual sensor goes bad). I will read the codes tonight and let you know what they are!

After my throttle actuator code/limp mode went away (after restarting the car), I had a presistant increased emissions light that went away on the next start that went away after the car sat for awhile. In the three times I have had the throttle actuator error pop up, the same increased emissions light occured in the same pattern.

Did your errors occur under low fuel / under 1/4 tank of gas conditions? Keep an eye out for the fuel level if it happens again (trying to see if that is a factor). You seem to be experiencing what I am, only I am on the stock tune and 240E.

Odds are that the code will return again in a week or two.

[happos2]

Originally Posted by Snig

After my throttle actuator code/limp mode went away (after restarting the car), I had a presistant increased emissions light that went away on the next start that went away after the car sat for awhile. In the three times I have had the throttle actuator error pop up, the same increased emissions light occured in the same pattern.

Did your errors occur under low fuel / under 1/4 tank of gas conditions? Keep an eye out for the fuel level if it happens again (trying to see if that is a factor). You seem to be experiencing what I am, only I am on the stock tune and 240E.

Odds are that the code will return again in a week or two.

I had a full tank when it occured (though I had filled up from a 1/8 tank left about 15 minutes prior). Thanks for the advice though.

[happos2]

New codes:

27C7 - Lambda sensor trim control AD diagnoticc Bank 2
2772 - Lambda sensor dynamic diagnotic VKAT bank 2
2B21 - Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1
SB57 - Motor emergency programm activated

With the pending 2B21 code again, I am taking the car to get serviced under CarMax warranty which my clear the other codes (resulting) potentially. We will see what they say since I have Test Pipes on.

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by happos2

New codes:

27C7 - Lambda sensor trim control AD diagnoticc Bank 2
2772 - Lambda sensor dynamic diagnotic VKAT bank 2
2B21 - Throttle valve actuator predrive check bank 1
SB57 - Motor emergency programm activated

With the pending 2B21 code again, I am taking the car to get serviced under CarMax warranty which my clear the other codes (resulting) potentially. We will see what they say since I have Test Pipes on.

Definitely take the car in with all of those codes... Maybe youll get lucky and get the oxygen sensors replaced too.

Just Fyi, VKAT = VOR (before) Cat (Important Sensor)
NKAT = NACH (after) Cat (Not as important)..

I've seen the top two codes on multiple stock cars. My suggest is to get them to replace the actuator (and whatever else you can get them to) and then monitor the codes. Chances are its the actuator causing the majority of this.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

Definitely take the car in with all of those codes... Maybe youll get lucky and get the oxygen sensors replaced too.

Just Fyi, VKAT = VOR (before) Cat (Important Sensor)
NKAT = NACH (after) Cat (Not as important)..

I've seen the top two codes on multiple stock cars. My suggest is to get them to replace the actuator (and whatever else you can get them to) and then monitor the codes. Chances are its the actuator causing the majority of this.

Mike, can the stage II cause the o2 sensors to deteriorate over a period, and eventually to the point of replacing?

[happos2]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

Definitely take the car in with all of those codes... Maybe youll get lucky and get the oxygen sensors replaced too.

Just Fyi, VKAT = VOR (before) Cat (Important Sensor)
NKAT = NACH (after) Cat (Not as important)..

I've seen the top two codes on multiple stock cars. My suggest is to get them to replace the actuator (and whatever else you can get them to) and then monitor the codes. Chances are its the actuator causing the majority of this.

Ah, good to know! I did drop the car off, we will see what they say!!

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by aussiem3

Mike, can the stage II cause the o2 sensors to deteriorate over a period, and eventually to the point of replacing?

No, the software has no effect on oxygen sensor life.

I've seen them last 5,000 miles and some 100+ K.

There are good and bad batches of them. Many people that have exhausts installed wind up getting faults for them if they are not handled properly. The element inside is not very resistant to "aggressive" installations/handling.

[aussiem3]

Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

No, the software has no effect on oxygen sensor life.

I've seen them last 5,000 miles and some 100+ K.

There are good and bad batches of them. Many people that have exhausts installed wind up getting faults for them if they are not handled properly. The element inside is not very resistant to "aggressive" installations/handling.

I am planning to get my Turner test pipes installed at the stealer so hopefully shouldn't have post installation issues. Thanks Mike

[happos2]

I was very gentle with my O2 sensors! I have done exhaust work before and learned they can be fragile.

That being said, car is at the dealership to be diagnosed. Thanks for the 3 series recalls, it might be there for some time. I just need them to diagnose the problem (which I already know) and write up a ticket so I can get a free rental car. Until then, pedal power it is!!

[happos2]

Update: Confirmed.
Throttle Valve Actuator is the cause of all my problems (as 100% expected).

Yay for $250 detuctable (CarMax - 6 yr; 125k mi) since the labor and parts was going to be just north of $1800.

[metro44m3]

Originally Posted by happos2

Update: Confirmed.
Throttle Valve Actuator is the cause of all my problems (as 100% expected).

Yay for $250 detuctable (CarMax - 6 yr; 125k mi) since the labor and parts was going to be just north of $1800.

just proves that an aftermarket warranty is just as good as spending twice as much for the BMW extended warranty.

[happos2]

Car is back in my hands, everything is good to go.

I did have an moment where I thought I screwed up tuning my car (laptop decided to go to sleep halfway through the tuning process). I was able to reload the tune and the car is healthy again!

[luiscarlos59]

what the hell is going on recently with the ICV/Throttle actuators on our cars...