Jerez Black Detail Question

[kmac1980]

Thanks for the great advice!

Originally Posted by Apollo Auto Detailing

The option of using Menzerna Nano first depends entirely on the buffer/pad system you are planning on using. After a clay procedure you will inevitably add fine scratches to the paint. Since these need to be removed, and depending on the cut of the clay, will show you the pad/polish to use. It is all subjective and at the same time dependent on experience.

My best guess on a clean paint surface is to use the Porter Cable random orbital set at 50% with a Green Lake Country polishing pad to see how it best removes swirls. If it doesn't "cut it" (pun intended), move up to the Green Cutting/Polishing pad with the Nano.
If THAT doesn't do it, it would be better to PM me with photos of a light reflection or direct sunlight reflection.

You might need to move up to Menzerna PO85U or even PO91E. It all depends on the buffer/pad/polish that you have on hand. Since speed also is a factor, maybe you just needed to give it more umph.. Random Orbitals tend to leave ghosting on the surface if used incorrectly (FYI) (Cyclo Dual Orbitals do not)

That is why I recommend using the Lake Country White or Gray pads depending on the color of the paint to finish the surface to a high degree of reflection. (and Nano).


Take photos, PM me and I offer my advice freely. (read: Opinion!)

As for glazes. At the moment I am not convinced on the need for a glaze IF you are prepping the paint to a fine degree of polish. Glazes tend to hide defects (their main purpose). Remove the defects and no glaze should be required. Traditional Carnuaba waxes are of such quality as to add incredible depth to any paint color, completely negating the need for a glaze. I prefer a sealant over a glaze.

A glaze sits on the surface of the paint. A sealant attempts to reside below the surface, bonding with the open pores of the paint. Waxing right after applying a glaze will inevitably remove a good portion of the glaze.

So which is better? My opinion... A sealant and a high grade wax.
NEVER, EVER trust an auto dealership with a sealant BTW.

There isn't a possibility of any sealant on the planet that can protect your car for more than a few days unprotected with a barrier of wax. It is just the nature of sealants. Since they reside below the paint surface, what about the actual surface?

Glazes are good for a few hours at most, unprotected by a barrier of wax.

5 year Sealant Never Wax your car again? This is rant waiting to happen, eh?

The bottom line is to treat your paint surface well, polish it as needed and you should not have to concern yourself with removing too much clearcoat with a random orbital and Menzerna Nano or Micro Polish (PO87MC). At the most it would remove a small fraction of a micron each time, and you should have at the minimum of 55 microns of clearcoat on the shallowest of places. With Menzerna Micro Polish PO87MC and a random orbital used correctly this equates to +150 deep polishes.

[Mystic195]

I finally got around to start the detail of my car today. I got the car washed, clayed, and a coat of nano on it. The nano with a white pad took out most of the light swirls but the roof still has some water spots on it. Do you guys recommend stepping up to the SIP for the water spots? What pad? I planned on doing another coat of Nano using a black pad. Their are a few other scratches that the Nano didnt get out. I am thinking the SIP with a green/white pad may do the trick on everything. Let me know your thoughts.

[Apollo Auto Detailing]

Ahh.. Water Spots. The nemesis of most detailers.

The issue here is that you can't guess how bonded the spots are, nor can you guess how many applications of Nano to use. Give it another go on the Nano and Green pad...

Good luck on your detail! It sounds like you accomplished the majority of the problems with just Nano.

About that Black pad... If it's is a Lake Country, then it won't do anything to remove water spots.


A photo or two is worth thousands of words.

.

[Mystic195]

I spent a few more hours today detailing out the car. After spending the afternoon frustrating myself, here is what I found is working.

SIP with Orange lc pad on speed 4
SIP with White lc pad on speed 4.5
Nano with White lc pad on speed 5

That got rid of 99% of the scratches and swirl marks but not everything. I am going to follow up with another coat of Nano and a black pad, then menzerna glaze and see where I am at.

As for the water spots I can't get them out for the life of me. I have tried two times with the SIP and an orange pad and they are still there. Any suggestions? I tried taking some pictures and they wont show the spots. Its only on the roof of the car but they are driving me nuts.

I tried a few different cominations of pads and polishes but this is the only thing I could get to work. Here are a few before and after pictures of the side I got done.

[kmac1980]

not that im an expert, but I notice you're using a porter cable with a pretty big pad... I've heard that the PC doesnt have the grunt to properly work heavier polishes like SIP.... perhaps using a smaller pad would help? (less resistance)

looks good though!!!

[Mystic195]

The orange pad I am using with the SIP is 5.5" and the rest are 6.5". Even with the 5.5" pad and SIP it won't remove the water spots.

[Apollo Auto Detailing]

My guess is that the "water spots" might not have been water in the first place. If you are positive that it was water and SIP didn't remove it then I would consider leaving them for now.

Try to take photos and post them here.. Suggestion is to take it outside and shoot the reflection of the sun to the edge of the spots. Use a tripod if you have one tall enough and zoom in.

You did a great job of removing those swirls ! In order to go to the next level you have to start with a clean pad (wash in the washing machine) and keep it clean when you are using it by covering the pad with a cloth when you set it down. A piece of dirt in the pad can be maddening at this level of polish.

Nano and away you go ! (P.S. if you still have small lines after this second pass of Nano, then you need to focus only on the lines with a heavier cut like SIP)



.

[Mystic195]

Maddening is right!!! What soap/detergent do you use to wash the pads? I used XMT Polishing Pad cleaner and water to clean them after every use. Do you think the black pad and nano will take it to the next level or should I do another pass with the white pad and nano?

There are a few minor scratches left over after the process but are very very minor. When you get one out it seems to make a new one in a different place!!!! I am going to try and do the whole process over again on the "water spots" and see what that does. If it doesnt remove them then I may just leave them. I just hate doing all this work to leave an imperfection!!!

[SpecC]

i wash my pads by letting them soak in some CG CWG then massaging it all out. let it soak some more, rinse all the soap out and let them dry or spin them dry

[Apollo Auto Detailing]

Seriously, I use Tide with no fragrance or dyes. Pop them in the washing machine and let 'em agitate a while. They come out like new. Dry them in the dishdrainer, then put them back in the plastic bag or the plastic case. I have two, one for foam, one for wool.

SpecC. Excellent White 335i detail. I havn't been to a garage in SF that was anywhere near as roomy as that one! LOL.

As a detailer I can say that we have techniques that are out of the ordinary to remove swirls. Once we have it to a specific grade of cut, we move to the Nano and might do two passes on the whole car, but at this level two passes would go pretty quickly.

The safest method to remove swirls for the non-detailer is to go slowly. It takes extra time, but it won't damage the paint irreparably, either. Your remaining swirls are not actual swirls anymore. They are minor scratches. Minor scratches require either extra effort with the Nano, or a new technique altogether. I think it is best to keep up with the Nano and a stiffer pad, but only on the specific scratches. Then re-polish with a the Softer Green Lake Country dual action pad.

The Black Lake doesn't have any cut at all. It really just removes buffer shimmer, unless you load it with a polishing agent stronger than Nano.

I am sure one of the detailers on this site (me included) can answer direct PM's with corresponding photos of what bugs you.!

[SpecC]

+1 nano + some more pressure should have some decent cut

apollo - the garage just looks bigger because of the lens my friends' were using. i did have about 2 feet on each side to work though because he came in slanted

[Mystic195]

Well after 4 days of work I finished the car up late Thursday night. I went out of town early Friday morning and didn't get time to take pictures. I will do that asap when I get home. I am still going to jack the car up and pull the rims to wax the inside.

Thanks again for everyones help!!!