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      08-27-2008, 07:59 PM   #23
Jinxter
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well I figured out how to mount the rear sensors without drilling my bootlid!!!

I dont have a step by step but I have photo's installed however the lighting sucks so bare with me.

Its the same for both sides. I had to dremel the liceness plat lights and used a gummy rubber to fill the access space (to water proof) I think it came out well! and best location for rear sensors.

My front sensors I ran through my firewall just like many did with there 335i's (drivers side) however I also ran the fronts around the head ligths into the fender so that wires are invisible (almost at least there is a section of approx 3 inches where they are visible under factory wires).




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      11-10-2008, 03:55 PM   #24
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Would mounting the rear sensors in the lower grill above the muffler work?
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      11-15-2008, 07:15 AM   #25
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Here's my install
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      11-15-2008, 07:17 AM   #26
leederek
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Here's an lower grill install of the Laser Park Pro in front as well
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      11-23-2008, 05:18 PM   #27
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So is there a detailed DIY yet?
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      11-25-2008, 10:29 AM   #28
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I think the lower center grill or lower side vents will be the best location for the heads. The kidney grill seems too obstructive.
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      12-02-2008, 11:01 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cipher5 View Post
I think the lower center grill or lower side vents will be the best location for the heads. The kidney grill seems too obstructive.
It works just fine behind the kidney grilles. Many times has been proven

lower side vents - not a good location
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      12-02-2008, 11:48 AM   #30
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That license plate setup is pretty sweet.
Make it yourself?
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      01-09-2009, 03:15 PM   #31
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keep em rolling guys
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      02-20-2009, 08:46 PM   #32
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I remember reading that according to LI, it is not recommended to install the heads vertically for performance reasons. Anyone else heard this?
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      04-22-2010, 02:42 AM   #33
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Important information here:

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...er+interceptor

The rest is self explanatory. Drop the panel below the glovebox and follow the huge cable bundle at the far right corner - it runs through a grommet in the firewall. You'll run wires through there from the engine compartment. Remove all the plastic covers over the ecu compartment in the area where you suspect the grommet will pass into the engine compartment. You will then have a better view of the grommet. Then make a hole in the grommet (I used a screwdriver) and pass a coat hanger through the hole from the cabin into the engine compartment. Find the hangar in the engine compartment, attach the LI cord plugs to the hangar (I taped it tightly with electical tape so the plugs didnt snag) and pull it back into the cabin. Use the fuse box site I mention to power the unit, use whatever ground you want. I chose the switch location seen in the DIY because it was easy and pretty, but you can go anywhere with that.

As you run the wires along the edges under the hood, you may want to consider heat resistant tape or tubing in any areas adjacent to high heat. I'm not sure what the rating is on that telephone-cord type cabling.

Hope this helps.
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