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      10-16-2013, 07:57 PM   #1
theturtle
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Buying an Out of Warranty M?

Hey guys,

I was just curious. When buying a performance vehicle such as an M3, how do you actually convince yourself/feel comfortable on buying a vehicle that is out of warranty. I see alot of nice used M3's for about 40k (many of them 08) and all of them are out of warranty. Isn't it safe to assume when shit hits the fan with one of the parts, the OOW costs would be astronomical?

Plus with the cars having 30-50k miles. You never know.
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      10-16-2013, 08:03 PM   #2
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No. The S65 engine has its problems and can be covered under warranty; however, it can be reliable if properly taken care of. You could go to your local BMW dealership and ask for a CPO for 2 more years and $3K+, or you could do the maintenance yourself. You can easily have the oil changed and do other maintenance yourself as well, such as spark plugs, differential fluids, etc. Keeping on top of this stuff can result in a long-running M3 and a happy owner.
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      10-16-2013, 08:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theturtle View Post
Hey guys,

I was just curious. When buying a performance vehicle such as an M3, how do you actually convince yourself/feel comfortable on buying a vehicle that is out of warranty. I see alot of nice used M3's for about 40k (many of them 08) and all of them are out of warranty. Isn't it safe to assume when shit hits the fan with one of the parts, the OOW costs would be astronomical?

Plus with the cars having 30-50k miles. You never know.
Purchase an aftermarket warranty. Simple fix here.
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      10-16-2013, 08:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got da booze View Post
No. The S65 engine has its problems and can be covered under warranty; however, it can be reliable if properly taken care of. You could go to your local BMW dealership and ask for a CPO for 2 more years and $3K+, or you could do the maintenance yourself. You can easily have the oil changed and do other maintenance yourself as well, such as spark plugs, differential fluids, etc. Keeping on top of this stuff can result in a long-running M3 and a happy owner.
But isn't that only from a dealership? Im talking about the instances where you purchase from a private seller and the factory warranty is completely gone.

I want to pull a trigger on a M but the lack of warranty and what issues may arise is a concern to say the least.
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      10-16-2013, 08:12 PM   #5
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Yes, a CPO would be through the dealership. You could also get a third party warranty through a third party as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theturtle View Post
But isn't that only from a dealership? Im talking about the instances where you purchase from a private seller and the factory warranty is completely gone.

I want to pull a trigger on a M but the lack of warranty and what issues may arise is a concern to say the least.
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      10-16-2013, 08:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theturtle View Post
But isn't that only from a dealership? Im talking about the instances where you purchase from a private seller and the factory warranty is completely gone.

I want to pull a trigger on a M but the lack of warranty and what issues may arise is a concern to say the least.
I believe that certain credit unions will offer an extended warranty plan, indepdent of the source of the purchase. USAA appears to at least. You may want to look into that as an option.
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      10-16-2013, 08:15 PM   #7
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USAA will present a warranty for around $3k and 6 yr/75k miles.

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Originally Posted by osteome View Post
I believe that certain credit unions will offer an extended warranty plan, indepdent of the source of the purchase. USAA appears to at least. You may want to look into that as an option.
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      10-16-2013, 08:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dashman View Post
Yes, this is a costly car to maintain if something goes wrong, more so with a DCT
Step 1 to a DCT vs 6MT derail!
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      10-16-2013, 08:39 PM   #9
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I would HIGHLY recommend buying one with a CPO warranty.

To date, my car has been to the dealer 3 times and has had replaced:
1. Transmission
2. Rear Diff Fluid due to clicking
3. Valve Spring (4 weeks in dealership)

The 3k I paid in the price of the vehicle was WELL worth it. All this work would have cost over $10k with parts and time. My cost you ask? $50 x 2 ($100) for the copays...diff fluid I was not charged.

Oh and also if your engine bearings pop...you have that covered as well.
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      10-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #10
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My car is a 2008 CPO and I still have about 15 months left. Recently my SA said "Keep the car indefinitely but budget around $2k per year for repair and maintenance and you will be fine. Know that you may spend $0 in year one and $4k in year two, but average $2k per year and there should be no tears."

note: I just got a new transmission and clutch (6 MT) about 3000 miles ago through warranty so I might keep this car as it only has 40,000 miles.
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      10-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #11
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A warranty is just insurance, you are gambling 3k that the car will need more than 3k in repairs for the life of the coverage, the warranty company is betting it will not need that much, and statistically they are correct,but they get to spread the risk over many cars, you don't. My 2004 Audi Alroad, bought in 2007 with 35k miles, ate up 17k in warranty work over 1.5 years and 15k miles.
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      10-16-2013, 08:49 PM   #12
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i wouldn't WANT a out of warranty M3 if you are daily driving it. its not worth the cost of repairs.

speaking of repairs my M is in the shop as we speak. lol
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      10-16-2013, 09:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjposner View Post
A warranty is just insurance, you are gambling 3k that the car will need more than 3k in repairs for the life of the coverage, the warranty company is betting it will not need that much, and statistically they are correct,but they get to spread the risk over many cars, you don't...
The majority of people that respond to these threads are the ones that have exceeded the cost of their extended warranty with repairs. You have to remember that "the house always wins", and there's a reason why extended warranty is even offered -- you're statistically unlikely to cost more than what you're paying for it.

The crux of the matter: How much is peace of mind worth to you?

**Disclaimer -- I am a M3 newbie, so all advice to liberally sprinkled with grains of salt**
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      10-16-2013, 09:31 PM   #14
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My simple rule: if you can't afford to buy an M3 with an existing warranty, you probably can't afford to fix an M3 out of warranty.
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      10-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #15
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Don't buy it without a warranty. Get a warranty. Too many moving parts and the older it gets the more they are bound to break..., double vanos, variable diff, dual clutch transmission, etc etc...These cars are high tech and foreign and there is no service manual. Without a service manual your dead in the water with no torque specs, no repair information, and no removal and install information etc. This is not an easy to fix Dodge Challenger or Ford Mustang with less moving parts, low cost American replacement parts, and a service manual that shows you how to do everything. Get the warranty or get a Mustang 5.0 ...hell its got the same performance, costs you tons less and honestly not having a warranty doesn't matter....LOL

I had a vette with no warranty, did all the modifications, fixed everything myself. I wouldn't dare do that with an M3 ...especially with DCT. The only good thing about MT is the lower probability of problems...lol

Last edited by Cool Steel; 10-16-2013 at 11:05 PM..
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      10-16-2013, 11:10 PM   #16
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I got a 100k mile warranty from Carmax. Paid for itself after the throttle actuators went out and cost $4k to fix at the dealership.
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      10-16-2013, 11:11 PM   #17
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As someone who just forked over $4000 for throttle actuators and an EDC module, you would be wise to get at least a powertrain warranty on a daily driver.
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      10-16-2013, 11:41 PM   #18
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So long as you go with a 2010+ I think you're ok buying out of warranty. Obviously you want to due some through DD when buying an M3 out of warranty. In-depth PPI (talk to the tech and call out a few key areas for him to inspect in addition to the checklist), compression test, if buying from the forum check the seller's previous post, run the vin (google, BMW, and car fax).
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      10-16-2013, 11:52 PM   #19
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When I buy, I will definitely plan to have it paid off, or a reserve for maintenance.
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      10-17-2013, 12:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dashman View Post
I believe you're the one doing that. I was just simply stating a fact.
How is that a fact? It's open to speculation regarding long term maintenance costs out of warranty between the two transmissions, but to-date, more money has been spent by owners out of pocket to maintain 6MT transmissions and clutches on e9X M3s than DCT units.
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      10-17-2013, 12:18 AM   #21
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Still had some warranty left when I bought mine as a daily driver. I'm anal when it comes to regular maintenence and cleaning. Doesn't matter if there is warranty because at some point you won't have warranty (Unless you trade/sell at the end of the warranty). I'm planning to keep my M3 for as long as it'll possible and after next year I won't have that warranty crutch.

If you can't afford an M3 when it breaks down then I hate to say it but this might not be a car to buy. You buy the best you better be ready to pay up on everything associated with it.
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      10-17-2013, 12:22 AM   #22
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I struggled with this issue also and ended up deciding that the car would have to have at least ~12 months of warranty left. It's been 12 months since I've bought my m3 and I've put about 14k miles on it with no issues so far.

I know its scary thinking about the potential costs out of warranty but warranty is just like insurance.... The odds of using it is much lower than not using it. That's how companies make money
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