Who tracks with stock brakes?

[03///m3]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Happy to report I have a solution after burning through countless sets of PF08s (lasting one weekend on average). Would get mushy pedal with rotors glowing orange upon return to garage.

Previous: PF08 with motul 600

Current: prospeed 683 (Bimmerworld guys swear by this and convinced me to just try it), Performance friction direct drive rotors, Bimmerworld SS lines (only because my stock rubber ones were getting moist on caliper joint with fluid and wanted to be safe; not a performance mod), Bimmerworld solid guide pins to eliminate uneven pad wear and convert stock caliper to fixed. PC 08 pads and NO ducting. But did remove backing plate which was burnt orange and rusting.

After speaking to a few teams at 24 hours of Dubai running stock calipers and pagid yellows for the duration of the race in e92 m3, I knew there was hope...

Well fellas, happy to report 8 sessions on summit point main and 1/3 pad wear (if that). No glowing or glazing of rotors and very very confidence inspiring. No caliper flex either. The pedal feels firm too. Long and short no more issues with the brakes.

The new rotors are cool much better due to inherent design. Those cheese drilled stock rotors ate up pads for no reason (Spoke with GAry Gray at Bimmerworld who confirmed this).

Very happy with above setup.

Lutfy

Lufty
Do you run the solid guide pins on both front and rear or only front?

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

Hey CanAut m3, i have no idea where did that stupid sign come from? I must have pressed on it by mistake and didnt notice it. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks on your feedback on PF pads.

well...there are worse ones to press.

Originally Posted by Groundpilot

I have never used pf pads, but heared nothing but good reviews about them.
I understand pf-01s are more track oriented pads but dont last as long as pf-08? What is the difference between them in terms of longevity?
Thanks for the feedback guys

I guess now the PF11s are a higher torque pad (more bite) that probably has a higher wear rate than an endurance pad. The PF08s are more of an endurance pad.

I drove PF01s and then tried some Pagid Yellows. I didn't like the flaccid feeling of the yellows. Then my buddy hates the boat anchor feel of the PF01s. I think it all comes down to what you're used to is probably what you'll like better.

[lutfy]

Folks had asked questions, comments below:

1) Yes I run solid guide pins front and rears. I found the tapered wear in the back as well.

2) PF01 vs PF08 in my case, almost double the wear. Previously with stock rotors, I had burnt through a set of 01s in one day at Summit Point main (5 20 min sessions). 08s were double for that (one weekend continuously throughout last year until I upgraded this year). I even burnt a set of Pagid yellows in one weekend. I am not the best person to ask for longevity since mine were being chewed up by nasty "holes" in the stock rotors however performance wise, the 01s had amazing initial bite and very easy to modulate vs linear feel of 08s (which I have gotten accustomed to for economical reasons).

if you are doing DE, 08s are they way to go on these heavy street pigs. Performance wise 08s are comparable to Pagid yellows. If someone did a blind test I doubt they would be able to tell the diff between the two. We used to run that in our GT4 Aston Martin and it wore like iron.

Plenty of vendors out there, I buy mine from Bimmerworld because of their support.

Lastly, to replace the PF rotor rings, ready for this boys: $125ish each ring/side Send the old worn out PF rings to Coleman Machine (or they go by Coleman Racing) and they will custom make one for you heat treated and all blanks with no dimples etc. Going forward, they will have the template so no need to send old rings back. Makes running the stock system more economical at this point.

Cheers,

Lutfy

[FTS]

^^^
Oh boy, you do go through a lot pad and may be a little too quickly. I am not sure how much your car weighs, but mine is 3,160-3,200 lbs depending on fuel, and my PF08s last me about 3 to 4 3-day weekends, and I would imagine my top speeds are a little higher than yours

How is your front/rear wear ratio? Mine's about 2 to 1.

P.S. I would recommend OG Racing or Apex Performance for all PFC stuff, great prices and service.

[03///m3]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Folks had asked questions, comments below:

1) Yes I run solid guide pins front and rears. I found the tapered wear in the back as well.

2) PF01 vs PF08 in my case, almost double the wear. Previously with stock rotors, I had burnt through a set of 01s in one day at Summit Point main (5 20 min sessions). 08s were double for that (one weekend continuously throughout last year until I upgraded this year). I even burnt a set of Pagid yellows in one weekend. I am not the best person to ask for longevity since mine were being chewed up by nasty "holes" in the stock rotors however performance wise, the 01s had amazing initial bite and very easy to modulate vs linear feel of 08s (which I have gotten accustomed to for economical reasons).

if you are doing DE, 08s are they way to go on these heavy street pigs. Performance wise 08s are comparable to Pagid yellows. If someone did a blind test I doubt they would be able to tell the diff between the two. We used to run that in our GT4 Aston Martin and it wore like iron.

Plenty of vendors out there, I buy mine from Bimmerworld because of their support.

Lastly, to replace the PF rotor rings, ready for this boys: $125ish each ring/side Send the old worn out PF rings to Coleman Machine (or they go by Coleman Racing) and they will custom make one for you heat treated and all blanks with no dimples etc. Going forward, they will have the template so no need to send old rings back. Makes running the stock system more economical at this point.

Cheers,

Lutfy

Thanks for the info. How frequently do you need to replace the PF rotor rings?

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by 03///m3

Thanks for the info. How frequently do you need to replace the PF rotor rings?

Once the cracks get big enough to accommodate a credit card or when they get to the circumference.

[Petros]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Once the cracks get big enough to accommodate a credit card or when they get to the circumference.

wow, that's some huge crack to be able to fit a plastic card in

For the solid guide pins, do you remove the rubber bushings in the caliper itself first? The pins by themselves seem too big to fit into the caliper unless you remove something from it first.

[kaleb]

Originally Posted by quicktwinturbo

Where wwould be the best place to order an PF08 pads in the US?

Best price I found, they shipped quickly.

http://speed-freaks.net/i-13155060-p...bmw-m3-08.html

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by FTS

^^^
Oh boy, you do go through a lot pad and may be a little too quickly. I am not sure how much your car weighs, but mine is 3,160-3,200 lbs depending on fuel, and my PF08s last me about 3 to 4 3-day weekends, and I would imagine my top speeds are a little higher than yours

How is your front/rear wear ratio? Mine's about 2 to 1.

P.S. I would recommend OG Racing or Apex Performance for all PFC stuff, great prices and service.

Petros, yes the rubber guides come out. Easy to pry out with a screw driver make sure you don't force it too hard so you can reuse when you sell or convert car back to stock. You would need angled pin clamp tool (or whatever its called) to install the brass guides and hold them in place. Easy.

FTS, car weighs 3700lbs even with 3/4 tank gas. Add 200lb driver. Previous front to rear ratio was 8:1 As of now with these upgrades its neck to neck even 1:1. On my previous race car it was 2:1 which is what it should be but while my fronts will now (given the wear rate) should last me what your pads do, the rears are possibly wearing out due to the cross drills).

Lutfy

[kitw]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

I do.

Except for PF08 pads, everything is stock (even the fluid). My experience is very positive thus far. I do 18-20 track days per season and my E92 has 5 1/2 seasons under its belt so far. I run NT01 r-comps and the tracks I run all have 125mph+ straights and some over 140mph. The sessions I run are usually 30min but I have done back to back sessions for 60min runs more than once. I have never encountered significant fade or lost brakes.

I found that on my KW clubsport equipped E92, I got some pretty severe fade at the end of a long straight (just touched 140mph). Some pad knockback but I did have an off, due to the car just not stopping, as well as uneven wear, etc.

I guess I'm pretty hard on brakes. I am trying to decide between BBK and just rotors and solid guide pins.