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02-14-2017, 11:19 AM | #463 |
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[IMG]Untitled by Chamba, on Flickr[/IMG]
Found a broken coil while changing spark plugs -_- sometimes thats the problem buying a used car, and I did buy it from the dealer too. At least I know the spark plugs was replaced previously. I guess I can reuse this coil since I havn't gotten a CEL. Or should I just buy a new coil? |
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02-14-2017, 12:11 PM | #464 | |
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...Eo8aAiAK8P8HAQ |
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02-14-2017, 08:23 PM | #465 |
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I was able to pull the broken coil with just by wiggling it and pulling up with my bare hands. Thankfully that was the only broken coil. Im buying another one just soo it wont be inconvenient when removing the coils next time. Need to buy a spark plug socket, the one I have it too big.
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02-14-2017, 11:26 PM | #466 | |
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
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02-15-2017, 02:53 PM | #467 | |
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I used a 3 inch extension for all of mine but a 2 inch extension would have been a little easier for those back plugs. |
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02-16-2017, 09:13 AM | #469 |
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I used a cat5 network cable and looped it under the electrical connector part of the coil and looped the rest of the wire around a big long screwdriver (making like a T and used both hands to pull the coil out. I had to pull hard and it popped out.
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02-16-2017, 07:28 PM | #470 |
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I did manage to get the #4 coil out but damn to access the spark plug is even harder. Seen people use swivel spark plug sockets, or extra long spark plug socket. Probably going to try one of those.
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03-18-2017, 08:14 PM | #472 |
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Attacked the spark plugs job this afternoon, success! Do the passenger side first, since #4 will take the longest, and practice helps. Driver side took me 10 min from coil off to coil back on. Below I posted a pic of all the tools I used, not shown are 6mm/8mm sockets, and a torx bit to remove the airbox.
Some observations: - M coil puller WILL NOT destroy the head of the coil, someone must've used a prying method to lift the coil out if this is not the first time your plugs are being changed (incompetent tech?). - 21mm wrench and M coil puller will lift #4 and #8 coil outl like nothing, remember once you hook the wrench to the puller, DON'T lift from the end of the wrench (toward front of the car), use one hand as a pivot, and lift closest to the coil, or you risk damaging the little head on the coil. - my torque wrench couldn't fit #4 and #8 plugs, so I just got a feel of the tightness of other cylinders, then tighten it down snugly. - Pushing #4 coil back down will be a pita, be prepared. - Mechanic gloves is a MUST. Last edited by Leonardo629; 03-19-2017 at 12:58 AM.. |
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03-21-2017, 05:51 PM | #473 |
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I ripped the head off of the coil closest to the passenger firewall leveraging the coil puller with a wrench. Bleh. Best to just go the ethernet cable route from the outset with that one. Came out no trouble at all that way. It would probably work without that head, but I went ahead and ordered a new one anyway.
I used a universal joint for that spark plug as well -- keeping in mind that it might affect operation of the torque wrench. I just didn't want to deal with it any other way. |
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03-22-2017, 02:04 PM | #474 |
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I just did this over the weekend and want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I spent a good amount of time reading all of the posts and seeing how everyone approached the task of changing the plugs.
I didn't need to do anything that wasn't explained in this thread. I tried the screwdriver method, but heard cracking from the head of several coils. It wasn't worth the time to try and perfect the method, so I just moved to the coat hanger method, since I had a perfect one in waiting down in the garage. Worked flawlessly. I was able to get all 8 coils out using this method. As far as the plugs themselves, I also didn't use any fancy tools. I used a 5/8th spark plug socket to get the plugs out and a extended regular 5/8 socket to install the new ones. I used different lengths (sometime just a single extension would work and other times, I stacked two together) of straight socket extensions to remove/install all of the plugs. As far as what I ended up removing from the engine bay, I took out the entire air filter box and removed the bolts holding down the coolant reservoir. Everything else remained intact. This was a much easier job than I expected. |
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03-26-2017, 03:31 PM | #475 |
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You guys make it seem so much more complicated than it actually is. No tool is required, coils pop out with a screwdriver easily. The only difficult part is getting your hand to the other side of the coil to pull up as you use the screwdriver to apply even pressure
Only tools I would say are required is a spark plug socket, torque wrench, and a variety of extention/swivel Here are my coils after 25k miles. My gas mileage was around 12 before the change. View post on imgur.com |
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04-01-2017, 06:41 PM | #476 |
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I just finished changing my plugs and it went very smoothly. I didn't remove the plenum. I only had to loosen the coolant reservoir on the passenger side to get the cover out, and removing the airbox was all that was needed on the drivers side. I used the division M coil puller for everything. I used a long 23mm open end wrench as a prybar along with the coil tool to get both of the rearmost coils out. To remove the rearmost plugs I used a magnetic swivel spark plug socket along with some extra swivels and extensions. Make sure you use your swivels and extensions and make them long enough so your ratchet is outside of the engine bay so you have room to turn it. To get the rear coils to seat I used the same open end wrench to apply pressure to the top of the coils to make them pop into place. The whole job took a few hours but I also did all my diff/transmission/engine oil and took breaks. The right tools make all the difference. It took a few tries to get the right combination of extensions and swivels at the right place, but after that it was easy. The dealer service records showed they were done 3 years ago at 22,000 miles and I was a little skeptical so I did them at 50,000 while I was in there. The old ones didn't look terrible, but now I shouldn't have to worry about them for a while.
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04-06-2017, 11:38 AM | #477 |
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Is this worth it or not? https://www.amazon.com/Division-DM-E.../dp/B01GZ3XZQG
I'm really confused as to how to approach this job. I've seen CAT5s and hangers being mentioned and it threw me for a loop. I did this on my 335i. Any similarities?
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04-06-2017, 07:13 PM | #478 | |
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04-07-2017, 06:41 AM | #479 |
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I used the coil puller tool also, and would add that it is equally useful for putting them back in as it is a solid surface to push against without risk of damage to the coil.
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04-07-2017, 07:53 AM | #480 | |
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There are two tools you need. The M coil puller and the gearwrench spark plug wrench. With those two tools, there's no need to remove the manifold and the whole job is painless. I am not a glutton for punishment. I would happily pay for tools to make my life easier. |
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04-07-2017, 08:18 AM | #481 | |
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Well said, lol! I have to swap out a Throttle Actuator, so I need to remove the Plenum anyways. I'll buy tools regardless as I'm not looking to make this project more dreadful than it probably already is.
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04-07-2017, 08:30 AM | #482 | |
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With those two tools, this job is not a 'nightmare'. It's probably a bit over an hour. I also removed both plastic covers permanently. Less weight! And hopefully better cooling! |
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04-07-2017, 08:39 AM | #483 |
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Does anyone know if spark plugs for BMWs are the same size? I have a spark plug tool I purchased for my 335i. i wonder if It'll work for the M3?
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