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12-11-2011, 09:06 PM | #134 |
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Surprisingly, yes. If you're skeptical like how I was, just buy the knob and run it for a week. Its not very expensive and if you don't like it just take it off and sell it.
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12-14-2011, 08:28 AM | #135 |
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I just finished this install and boy was it worth it. Looks great and feels way better.
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12-17-2011, 09:47 AM | #136 |
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I don't think it's ever really clear what tools you need to get the whole job done right. To set it straight IMO, it is:
Dremel tool (standard version) with some basic bits. AND Hand Drill (medium power) with a drill bit at least as long at the length of the ZHP. Bit -tip size see picture in thread for the hole you're punching through from the bottom The Dremel is needed clean up the space under ZHP emblem upon removal (rubbery area) to fit flush the LED housing. Plus, some light work to cut through the Stock Knob to cleanly get to the LED housing etc. The Hand Drill is definitely needed to cleanly drill (length wise) through the edge of the ZHP knob-making sure it's straight shot from the bottom of the knob (see picture below), to the top. NOTE: there isn't some metal plate you hit in the knob. Someone on here claimed they hit some metal plate, but it's purely resin / plastic, so the drill will work without any issues. Just take your time and gauge the right line through the knob. Still working on this one...will post results afterwards...just some tips I thought I'd share. |
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12-17-2011, 10:24 AM | #137 | |
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Can you be so kind to elaborate on what basic bits are for the dremel and drill? pictures will absolutely help |
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12-17-2011, 02:24 PM | #138 | |
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Bits - Dremel (mini spiral bit that's great for precision cleaning, clearing) Drill (standard drill bit, long enough, spiral, and not too large diameter - drill slow as plastic will heat up naturally and it will be more controlled) |
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12-22-2011, 03:01 AM | #139 |
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After studying and organizing the info from the DIY post I finally had the courage to jump into this project. Thanks to those who had spend their time to help me, including OP, elp_jc, SROC5...etc, well basically every member who posted in this thread.
And the details of it have already been elaborate many times, I followed the combination of OP, elp_jc (brilliant idea for the shift boot by the way, although I put too many layers of tape so the leather is fatter below the knob ring, it's ok to me thou ) and mtl88's instructions. So just some reminders for whoever still want to give it a try: 1. When Dremel, I used the bit #401 for breaking the ZHP cap/shift pattern; #932 for lowering the center protrusion below the ZHP cap; and #953 or #84922 for detail fixing 2. Do not forget to put masking tape around the ZHP knob when Dremeling; although light scratch on the leather could be covered by Sharpie 3. Do wear goggles and mask when Dremeling, a simple eye glasses could do 80% of the protection but you are responsible for the other 20%... 4. when drilling hole for the LED wires inside ZHP, drill slowly, hold on to the ZHP knob tight, once the drill goes deep enough into the knob it will grab onto it well but still take your time. Beginning is the hardest, make sure that the drill is straight down That's about all, and I include some pictures for the result. The illumination is not very evenly distributed maybe per elp_jc's standard so please go easy on me, lol. But to me this is already a very successful DIY and boy I love the look and functionality of the $70 I spent. Recommend! Apology for the insufficient lighting |
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12-22-2011, 08:23 AM | #140 |
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Nice. I knew you could do it.
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12-22-2011, 10:29 AM | #141 | |
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Great job and I think it looks good! Question, you say that the lighting is uneven, but given it's from the OEM knob LED/Emblem, it's any more uneven than stock knob right?
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12-22-2011, 03:54 PM | #142 |
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I will have to disagree with you there. I think the ZHP knob is 10x better than the stock one. The shorter stature and weighted feel give the entire act of shifting a much solid, better feeling imo.
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12-22-2011, 06:35 PM | #143 | |
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Thank you, I was only going to butcher the OEM knob that night but ended up finishing the whole thing...lol
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Not because I did this DIY so I have bias. I would not say how much better ZHP is but I do want to complaint about the OEM goose neck knob. It is long and hollow plastic. Hard to describe but shifting with the OEM knob I always have this "unfulfilled" touch IMO |
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01-07-2012, 08:47 PM | #144 |
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half way through this and taking a break it's definitely a bear to get this done. Patience is the name of the game here...by in the meantime this perf. shifter from my 335i is actually feeling pretty damn good with the UUC SSK!
Last edited by S65V8; 01-08-2012 at 06:30 AM.. |
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01-12-2012, 01:35 PM | #145 |
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Well I did it cut the stock boot off and did the custom ZHP lighted knob, pretty easy with the right tools and some patience. Anyway pretty happy with the turnout, only issue I had was I nicked a small portion of the outside edge of the ZHP with the dremmel but it's not that notable. I must say that for an M3; BMW should have done better with the shifter, the ZHP is soooooooooo much better. For those of you still on the fence about doing the swap, go for it.
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01-12-2012, 01:42 PM | #146 | |
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01-12-2012, 02:47 PM | #147 |
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not to hi jack the thread but has anybody bought one of these pre-done ones off ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M-ZHP-Le...item2a177dd077 seems like a more direct plug and play to me |
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01-12-2012, 03:01 PM | #148 | |
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01-12-2012, 03:11 PM | #149 |
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01-13-2012, 02:09 AM | #150 |
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I heard that the "weight" of the knob is not there. Maybe its a lighter (manufactured elsewhere) type of replica?
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01-13-2012, 11:48 PM | #151 |
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Well, after spending about 7 hours on my DIY illuminated ZHP knob, I finally got it to my satisfaction. Like with doing any job for the first time, I spent a bit of time figuring out the best methods for doing certain steps.
I took my time removing material from the ZHP knob since I didn't want to accidentally damage it. I wanted to minimize the material removed because I wanted to retain as much of the knob's weight as possible. It took some time to get the alignment of the shift pattern right and sit flush with the top of the knob. It took me about 6 or 7 tries before I finally got it right. Knowing what I know now about what was involved on this job, I'd probably just buy that ebay knob for $120 if I were to do this again. I'm willing to pay someone who's had experience building a few of these knobs, assuming his workmanship is good. I know when I do custom jobs like this, the second or third ones usually come out better than the first. |
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01-14-2012, 02:53 PM | #152 |
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Bam! Finally got time to sit down, drill holes, plan out the fitment and materials. As many have said, "patience" is the name of the game. Take your time and you can do this. However, make sure you have the right tools, materials, all together before you jump in my friend
VERDICT: worth the part cost, my own labor, and some anxiety Did this in phases so I didn't feel like it took a lot time... I was lucky I got to borrow tools, so my cost to build was just the part! Last edited by S65V8; 01-14-2012 at 02:58 PM.. |
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01-30-2012, 04:45 AM | #154 |
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what size is the hole for the cabels which i must drill into the ZHP knob? and where is the best place for the hole? on 6 oclock?
Last edited by Robmaster; 01-30-2012 at 07:01 AM.. |
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