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01-01-2015, 07:58 PM | #23 |
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It took me like 3.5 days from the first moment I step into the garage until the moment I cleaned up and put everything away. I ran into some problems removing the stud from the factory oil cooler and had to run out to a hardware store to pick up some M8x1.25x16mm socket head screws for the VFE oil cooler. I also stop the first day after I drop the oil pan to let the oil drip out as I didn't want to have to fight with oil dripping on my face. I 'really' took my time to figure out how to remove/reroute things and cleaned up all the bolts that had thread locks on them. If I have to do this again, I should be able to get it done in less than 3 days. It should be doable in 2 though I think. If you have a lift, it will be much faster. A lot of the time was spend lowering/raising the subframe/suspension arms and trying to line everything up. I was doing this all by myself with no other helping hand.
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01-01-2015, 08:05 PM | #24 | |
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01-01-2015, 08:12 PM | #25 | |
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01-01-2015, 08:29 PM | #26 | ||
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I am about to be hit with a big bill for TVA, with bank 1 starting to play up. I am going to DIY thanks to an excellent post by W/// and others. I am currently approaching 48k km on a '07 built car. Thank you for posting your experience and helping the community. But to be honest it's not a DIY for me. I don't have the confidence. Kudos to you for doing it.
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01-01-2015, 08:43 PM | #27 | |
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01-01-2015, 09:13 PM | #28 | |
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And as you said the OTC is not really that much more money but it looks much more solid than the HF. Thank you all for the kind words. I learned a lot on this forum from you guys that I just want to give back a good data point and share my experience. |
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01-02-2015, 02:14 AM | #30 |
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bank 2 assuming 5-8? Along with the fact that back side of the top halves on this bank are a good shade or 2 darker than the rest also. I am not sure if that's a sign of the bearing heating up too much or not. Would love to hear some feedback/opinion on this.
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01-02-2015, 04:00 AM | #31 |
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If you aren't seeing any signs of exposed copper on the bearings then Clevite would most likely call that normal wear. Some pics with better lighting might reveal more.
One thing that stands out (apart from the dark colour on the back of some ) is that the lower bearings show more signs of wear than is usual. |
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01-02-2015, 09:56 AM | #32 | |
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OP, great job! Much respect, especially because you did it on jack stands. I personally have no patience and don't have the confience in doing a job like this quite yet. I'm waiting for the new custom bearings to come out and will nag Kawasaki00 to help me DIY haha. I'm just about to turn over roll over 83k miles, and while my car has been pretty issue free, it's time to start thinking about doing this.
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01-02-2015, 09:58 AM | #33 | |
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01-02-2015, 10:07 AM | #34 | |
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If you change your bearings, please post pics,at least if it's possible.. I'm on 32K miles and think to wait another 32K , and for the moment my S65 sounds just perfect, no ticking noises ! But the big question is ...Are the Clevite bearings better , because I realy don't like to see my S65 as an experiment.... BTW....Happy New Year my friend .
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01-02-2015, 10:57 AM | #35 | |
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I haven't 100% thought about what kind of bearing I'd chose, or when I'd change it. I've met Kawasaki00 in person and keep in touch with him all the time. Because of that, I know what he does for a living and more than trust his abilities and judgement. Heck, he was the one that told me to switch from LM 10W60 to M1. So we'll see what happens. I'll cross that bridge when its' time. There's one thing I know for sure though. Took the E92 out on a mountain run yesterday, and I'm more convinced that I adore this car. Happy new years!!
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01-02-2015, 11:53 AM | #36 | |
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I don't want to start a debate here but based on this paper from Clevite: http://www.remotech.info/uploads/cle..._tech_info.pdf my bearings look nothing like their normal wear picture. Furthermore, I looked around the internet and there are some Integra, S2000 bearings on much higher mileage engines that showed 'normal' wear similar to Clevite's picture. (I can't really find any Ferrari or Porshce bearing pictures to compare). I was looking for high revving/specific output engines specifically. Although I agree my bearings look to be in very good shape compare with some of the ones shown here and on the M5 forum, I do not think this is normal at all. Not for a modern engine and especially not the way that I have meticulously maintaining it. I just hope we will find a solution for our last of the breed NA engine at some point so we can all enjoy this engine as we should. On the other hand, I don't think my engine have any side clearance issue that was discussed in the other threads. I don't have the equipment to measure it. However, the side of the rods/caps look perfect with almost all of the criss-cross pattern (from machining/honing?) still in tack. The side of the crank also look perfect. No discoloration/spot of any sort. No rub marks like the ones shown in the clearance wiki. I also was able to shift them side to side with decent amount of play. Didn't BMW change the crank part number over the year? Maybe they adjusted something over time here? If I do this next time, I will use a feeder gauge to measure it. At the moment, I am not worry about side clearance on my engine. Last edited by e92zero; 01-02-2015 at 12:01 PM.. |
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01-02-2015, 12:14 PM | #37 |
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OP you are the man!
I'd been wondering if this was a DIY capable project without a lift. Seeing that you were able to do this with jacks/jack-stands/milk crate/lumber....is absolutely inspiring! Definitely sparks my personal curiosity about whether I could do it. Did you use portions from the BMW TIS to help you with this? If so, what sections would you recommend looking up and printing to prepare for this job (i.e. information about proper removal of the sub frame, oil pan removal and installation, particular torque specs, etc....)? Thank you for sharing your experience with all of us! Thank you for being a pioneer and treading into uncharted DIY territory. (I say uncharted because I'd wager that many of us DIYers on this forum have limited experience undertaking a job of this magnitude.) |
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01-02-2015, 12:26 PM | #38 | |
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01-02-2015, 12:39 PM | #40 | |
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So the rod bearings are just swapped, as in remove and replace? There's no clearance measurements taken?
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01-02-2015, 12:46 PM | #41 |
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Yup, just swapped. I would have measured it but unfortunately, I have no way of truely measuring anything meaningful with only the cap coming all the way out of the engine.
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01-02-2015, 12:50 PM | #42 | |
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That being said, I am not a tech. Just an average guy who enjoys working on cars. I might feel comfortable tackling this if there were a step by step DIY with pictures, but without it, I don't have the mechanical knowledge or confidence to do the job myself I'm afraid. Is this a job that an average DIY'er could handle with some step by step guidance, or is it a job best left for professionals? |
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01-02-2015, 03:35 PM | #43 | |
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01-02-2015, 05:56 PM | #44 | |
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Wishing you the same
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