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06-17-2009, 12:46 PM | #1 |
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Should I let the dealer try to fix the swirl marks he made?
My Jerez Black M3 sedan was redelivered last Monday from Euro Delivery. It has been raining on and off since I picked up my car. I finally got a chance to give it a proper wash yesterday. My hood and front fender flares have awful swirl marks. I have talked to my CA and he said it sometimes happens.
My question is should I have the dealer try to fix it? How hard is it going to be to correct? Is there a chance that they will just make it worse? If I choose to do it myself, what would I need? I have a Flex 3401. What sort of pad should I start with after claying and what product to use? I know it is pretty hard to tell without a good picture. Unfortunately all I have is a crappy picture from my iPhone. I can take some better shots tonight. It looks like very fine scratches that you can only see from an angle in the direct sun. Thanks in advance!
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06-17-2009, 01:06 PM | #2 |
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A dealer will NEVER remove that; I guess you don't know how much work (and special products) it takes to remove all swirl marks from a black car. I wouldn't let a dealer touch my car with a 10' pole, especially black. For what I've seen, it's not bad at all. Just fix it yourself, and don't let them wash it ever again. Good luck.
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06-17-2009, 01:47 PM | #4 |
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Typical....
The stealer butchered and hacked up your beautiful paint work... I recommend you do a complete detail again, starting from the beggining.... 1) Thorough wash 2) Clay all surfaces w/ QD 3) Rotory polish/finesse to remove cobwebbing or fine hairline scratches 4) D/A polish your paint for a deep, intense and even application. 5) D/A wax or seal using a finishing pad Back to a beautiful shine again....... I highly recommend that in the future when you visit the STEALER take a grease pencil, write the word wash on the drivers uppper window. Then make a circle around the word and put a cross thru it....They will get the message for sure. Dave @ Innovative Detailing |
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06-17-2009, 04:21 PM | #5 | |
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Doesn't seem that bad. Try P203S and PO85RD. Remember to start with the least aggressive and work your way up. They are also having a sale on pads. I would get green, white, blue and black just so you have a range of different methods. If you need a stronger cut, then go to SIP with orange pad When you are done polishing, protect your work with a coat of 109. Let it cure about 6-12 hours between coats to make sure it bonds correctly to the paint. Then after a coat or two, apply the wax of your choice. Personally for black, Petes 53 is very good stuff. Make sure you are using the proper washing techniques and using quality microfiber to dry your car. Most swirls come from improper washing. Also, your finished result is based on how well you prepare before polishing Hope this helps out, let me know if you have any more questions
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06-18-2009, 07:47 AM | #7 |
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Thanks to all of you for your advice. I am going to work on it this weekend. Most of the time the paint looks fine. It is only in direct sun and at the right angle that you can see the swirl marks. I have a foam gun, use two buckets and good microfiber towels for drying. These marks came from the rotary polisher at the dealer.
@Dave What did you mean by "2) Clay all surfaces w/ QD" What is QD? Is that a brand of clay?
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06-18-2009, 09:49 AM | #8 | |
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06-18-2009, 10:14 AM | #9 |
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I use "Blackfire Poly Clay". I've had the best results with that with almost no left over residues that most clays leave behind. I would wash it up good and then clay it down while it is still wet. Do it out of the sun and keep the car wet the whole time by spraying every once in a while.
Once your done claying I would wipe the whole car down with a gentle microfiber cloth or something. I would just hit that car with a Porter Cable Random with a soft pad (usually black color is the softest for most brands). Doesn't look like you need a rotary. After you polish it then wax with whatever you want. I prefer using a combo. I use Klasse products (acrylic based) as a base and then I finish off the car by hand with 3 or so coats of P21s. It is a pure carnuba that has no additives in case you hit a molding it won't leave the white marks in it. Pure carnuba also brings out a huge POP effect in the paint. |
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06-29-2009, 09:51 AM | #10 |
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Thanks to everybody for the help. I just wanted to follow up with a quick update.
I washed and clayed the car with Clay Magic fine and Chemical Guys luber. I did introduce a couple of fine scatches when I clayed. I am not sure if it was my technique or if it is normal. I used plenty of the luber and not much pressure when I clayed. After I dryed with a microfiber towel, I started with a white pad on my Flex and Menzerna PO85RD Polish on a two by two area of the hood. It came out mint and removed the fine scratches I had introduced as well as the swirl marks the dealer had made. I did the rest of the hood and the front fender. I followed with a coat of 109 and then CG 50/50 wax. The car looks great! I took some pictures which I will try and post later.
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06-29-2009, 10:27 AM | #11 |
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Awesome.................
Glad I could be of assistance, now that you know the technique you will really enjoy taking care of your vehicle in the right way! Dave @ Innovative Detailing |
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