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[VictorH]

Hi Terry,
Thanks for the thoughtful reply. Is the hub side just torqued to some spec or is it torqued and red loctited? The only wheel I've ever seen come off was with screw in studs, so probably the technology has improved (these don't have an internal locking mechanism do they, like some header bolts).

I always thought having two threaded surfaces per wheel nut was not as good as one, but it sounds like your experience contradicts that. No doubt being to see the stud extending through the nut is best, I just didn't realize that screw in could be so reliable.

[Fair]

Originally Posted by VictorH

Hi Terry,
Thanks for the thoughtful reply. Is the hub side just torqued to some spec or is it torqued and red loctited? The only wheel I've ever seen come off was with screw in studs, so probably the technology has improved (these don't have an internal locking mechanism do they, like some header bolts).

There's more than one way to do this, but most of the BMW screw-in wheel studs on the market are installed until the hub's threads bottom out on the stud's unthreaded shoulder, with a drop of red threadlocker on the hub side thread to lock them in place during wheel changes. This is the simplest solution and it works. Usually it takes heat applied to the stud (via a torch) to release the threadlocker's chemical bond to remove an old wheel stud from a hub. Red threadlocker (Loctite, Vibra-Tite, etc) is very effective if the surfaces are clean and it is allowed to dry correctly.



Sometimes screw-in studs are spec'd with a tighter thread tolerance (a different "thread class") on the hub side only - this makes for a "self locking" thread if installed correctly. We used to do that on our 80mm wheel studs, as well as supplied red threadlocker with those kits. This type of thread class takes more torque to install into the hubs, so of course a percentage of users wouldn't read the instructions and would not seat them fully... then we got blamed for their lack of reading comprehension. In the end it was just easier to change that thread class and drop that part. Try to do something different and some people will screw it up...

[JAJ]

Originally Posted by Fair

Try to do something different and some people will screw it up...

The tragedy of idiot-proofing: Mother nature responds to every product improvement by introducing a higher performance idiot.

[consolidated]

Originally Posted by JAJ

The tragedy of idiot-proofing: Mother nature responds to every product improvement by introducing a higher performance idiot.

Priceless, I'm going to use that one at my next jobsite meeting.

[Kimbertm2]

Found this on Bimmerforums

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1391700

Price is right made with bullet ends too

[aus]

Wonder how they compare to the Macht Schnell units?