Quick question: am I detailing correctly?

[M3FTW]

Did my first decent detail on my M3 this week and I want to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. This is the process I used, feel free to add in the steps I need and decent products to meet that end.

1) Did a thorough clean using a different mit for main body and lower dirtier panels. Cleaned the wheels with a brush and mitt.
2) Dried the car with a super absorbant chamix (one of those cloths you can soak up a lake with)
3) Clayed the car using the Meguiars clay kit
4) Waxed the car by hand with an applicator pad and 100% cotton cloths to remove
5) Sprayed on Armor All regular wheel foam and wiped in using applicator pad (gives a solid clean black look without the unnecessary wet shine)

I neeed to get a good exhaust tip cleaner as I couldn't get them completely clean. I used Meguiars soap, clay kit, and wax because it seemed as decent as any.

Another question, for subsequent washes, I don't need to rewax or clay each time, what should the wash entail?

I have premium 19" wheels, after washing, what sealant is decent? Oh, and can I use a swiffer duster to run over it to remove dust if it has been sitting in my garage?

I think that's it. I like cleaning my own car so I want to do a good job and keep it looking great. Thanks.

[SlammedR8]

I would suggest compound/polish after the clay bar and before the wax!

[DemoDave]

Originally Posted by M3FTW

Did my first decent detail on my M3 this week and I want to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. This is the process I used, feel free to add in the steps I need and decent products to meet that end.

1) Did a thorough clean using a different mit for main body and lower dirtier panels. Cleaned the wheels with a brush and mitt.
2) Dried the car with a super absorbant chamix (one of those cloths you can soak up a lake with)
3) Clayed the car using the Meguiars clay kit
4) Waxed the car by hand with an applicator pad and 100% cotton cloths to remove
5) Sprayed on Armor All regular wheel foam and wiped in using applicator pad (gives a solid clean black look without the unnecessary wet shine)

...

How long did it take?

[M3FTW]

Took between two and three hours. For the compound/polish, do you mean using a buffer?

[SlammedR8]

Originally Posted by M3FTW

Took between two and three hours. For the compound/polish, do you mean using a buffer?

If you dont have one, then by hand. but usually after a clay job. you def want to compound or polish the paint, not just wax it!

[M3FTW]

I knew it! My car is ruined!

Another picky question, if I don't use a buffer, what's the best way to polish? Best polish?

[nikku]

Originally Posted by M3FTW

Did my first decent detail on my M3 this week and I want to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. This is the process I used, feel free to add in the steps I need and decent products to meet that end.

1) Did a thorough clean using a different mit for main body and lower dirtier panels. Cleaned the wheels with a brush and mitt.

I would highly recommend practicing a two bucket wash method with two wash mitts ( sheepskin is my go to ), one bucket filled with clean water and one bucket with your favourite wash soap. Both buckets should have a grit guard. If you would like more detailed info feel free to contact me.

2) Dried the car with a super absorbant chamix (one of those cloths you can soak up a lake with)

I prefer waffle weaves. More absorbent and definitely helps avoid marring or scratches. If you have jet black or jerez black pat the water dry instead of pulling the towel towards you.

3) Clayed the car using the Meguiars clay kit

Make sure when claying you use very little pressure and let the clay and clay lubricant do the work for you. You'll probably only need to clay your car twice a year. Once in a the spring and once just before winter. If you can do a light polish after a claying that would be great. You can do it by hand but it is a little tiring. If you decide to do it by hand, section your car off and tackle parts of it at a time so you don't get discouraged by the amount of buffing you have to do with a polishing pad and a polish.

4) Waxed the car by hand with an applicator pad and 100% cotton cloths to remove

Try to use quality microfiber towels when removing wax. In most cases but not all over the counter microfibre towels will mar your paint so try to avoid them.

5) Sprayed on Armor All regular wheel foam and wiped in using applicator pad (gives a solid clean black look without the unnecessary wet shine)

If you like it stick to it but have an open mind to possibly better quality products. However everything is subjective a person may treasure durability over shine and protection.

I neeed to get a good exhaust tip cleaner as I couldn't get them completely clean. I used Meguiars soap, clay kit, and wax because it seemed as decent as any.

For cleaning your exhaust tip you have multiple choices depending if you have a matte exhaust or a bare metal, my go to products are Optimum Metal Polish, Duragloss Metal Polish and P21S Polishing Cream. When polishing if you find your tips extremely caked on with carbon clean it out with a good degreaser first then dry it and follow it up with a good buff 0000 steel wool with your metal polish ( remember to stay with the grain of the metal ) then after that grab a bulk microfibre towel like that found at costco ( yellow ones ) and put a little metal polish and rub away. That will bring them back to a shine and if you want to kick it up to a notch grab your favourite finishing paint polish + yellow microfibre towel and bobs your uncle

Another question, for subsequent washes, I don't need to rewax or clay each time, what should the wash entail?

You can rewax if you want to but if you don't like doing the hand wax each time you can go with a spray wax just to boost your current wax. My favs are Duragloss Aquawax and Optimum Car Wax. Inbetween your main wax applications only use enough car wash soap to clean the car and not strip the wax. Some wash soap depending on concentrating can strip wax, not completely but it will reduce the durability of your wax.

I have premium 19" wheels, after washing, what sealant is decent? Oh, and can I use a swiffer duster to run over it to remove dust if it has been sitting in my garage?

I have no experience with Swiffer duster applications on wheels so I can't say if it would be a good thing or bad thing. What I suggest to my clients for their washes and if they only want to address their wheels with light dust I tell them to use something like Optimum No Rinse Wash to look after your wheels. If you want to wash your wheels when you wash your car don't be afraid to use the same car wash solution for your wheels just make sure you have completely separate buckets for your paintwork and your wheels. Never re-use anything that you use on your wheels on your paintwork. If in doubt ask us

To seal your wheels use Poorboys Wheel Sealant or Wheel Wax. Those are two that I am experienced with. You get better value out of Wheel Wax but Poorboys smells awesome

I think that's it. I like cleaning my own car so I want to do a good job and keep it looking great. Thanks.

I hope that helps ! Good luck and have fun detailing. Keep us posted with pics

[swamp2]

Sounds good.

• Don't over clay. Check the smoothness of the finish in various panels of your car. If it feels good enough (quite a bit of judgement/preference there) don't clay. Certainly don't clay with every wash.
• I switched from mits to grout sponges along with the two bucket method. I was seeing some really fine scratching even visible in my Space Grey color. I am almost certain they are from from particles trapped in my mits. Mits are just way too hard to clean really thoroughly.
• You'll probably want to add a good wheel cleaning solution to your routine along with a gentle wheel cleaning brush. I have used bith Chemical Guys and P21S wheel cleaner and like both really well.
• Try a silicone squeege, ones specifically made for car drying. This saves a lot of drying effort. If it is clean it will not scratch you car.

[808MGuy]

Everybody has their own method so you'll probably end up taking bits and pieces and forming your own routine. Mine is as follows:

1. Wash with two bucket method as described above using white Shmitts for the body and a black Shmitt for the wheels. I dump the shampoo and water after the wheels and then start the body with new shampoo and water. I've used 1Z perls and Prima Mystique for shampoos and both are very good. Dry with a waffle weave microfiber towel. For weekly washes, I don't dry completely. I just do quick passes and then spray Optimum Instant Detail Spray on the surface. Then I wipe with a microfiber cloth to both dry the surface and buff the instant detailer.

2. Clay with clay magic only when necessary (which is hardly ever). I do it maybe once a year at most when I feel the surface is not smooth.

3. Depending on the condition of the paint, I compound/polish using Menzerna P085RD. If I need something more aggressive, I have Meguiars Ultimate compound. I use a Porter Cable 7424 for compounding.

4. Follow up compounding with a coat of Swissvax cleaner fluid to prep paint for wax.

5. Wax by hand with Swissvax Blau Weiss. Wait 3 hours and apply a second coat.

6. For metal polishing like exhaust tips I use Adams Metal Polish #1 and #2.

7. For wheels I apply 2 coats of Menzerna FMJ and then treat the rubber with Zaino Z16 (I think that's the number).

8. For interior I use 1Z Cockpit premium for the dash and Spinneybeck leather treatment for the seats. If the dash needs something a little more aggressive, I use 1Z plastic cleaner. The 1Z cockpit is weekly but Spinneybeck is only once a month.

I think that about covers it! A full detail takes me about 8-10 hours and I do it about 4 times a year.