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      11-12-2014, 07:40 AM   #89
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The first 2 are LM 10W-60. Last one is M1. I actually also have another report for M1 (after a pretty brutal track day and multiple mountain runs) and the lead stayed low. The other metals increased, but were within the average.



I should also mention that my commute to work is only about 10-12 miles. During the winter here, it can go down to 30-40F in the morning. With 10W60, my car would barely get to 210F by the time I get to work, whereas M1 was up to temp within I'd say 6-8 miles. I stay below 3500 RPM until it reaches operating temp, so in the case of 10W60, I couldn't even drive the car like it was meant to. Just FYI
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Last edited by W///; 11-12-2014 at 08:25 AM..
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      11-12-2014, 08:19 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
The first 2 are LW10-60. Last one is M1. I actually also have another report for M1 (after a pretty brutal track day and multiple mountain runs) and the lead stayed low. The other metals increased, but were within the average.
Are higher iron levels to be expected with 1. - M1 0W40 and 2. - spirited driving?

I just checked my previous oil sample and my iron was at 15, but I did A LOT of spirited driving on TWS10W60 with 1 QT of M1 0W40 added over a 7K mile sample.

My car is a 2011 with 42k miles so I have NO idea what to look for with the new bearings.

Aluminum - 8
Chromium - 0
Iron - 15
Copper - 5
Lead - 0
Tin - 0
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      11-12-2014, 08:24 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewRifle View Post
Are higher iron levels to be expected with 1. - M1 0W40 and 2. - spirited driving?

I just checked my previous oil sample and my iron was at 15, but I did A LOT of spirited driving on TWS10W60 with 1 QT of M1 0W40 added over a 7K mile sample.

My car is a 2011 with 42k miles so I have NO idea what to look for with the new bearings.

Aluminum - 8
Chromium - 0
Iron - 15
Copper - 5
Lead - 0
Tin - 0
My iron went up when I switched to M1, but it is still right at around the average. My lead however, has consistently been much lower with M1. To the point where I'm really not worried about rod bearings (knock on wood) until 100k miles plus. If the reports keep looking like this, I don't see a reason to bust open the engine yet.

FYI, I know this is an LM thread and not M1, but I wouldn't have switched without putting some thought into it. For my use, M1 just made way more sense. The car doesn't really see the track, although it does see some very spirited driving once warmed up. I'm much more concerned about the oil when it's cold.
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      11-12-2014, 09:15 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewRifle View Post
Are higher iron levels to be expected with 1. - M1 0W40 and 2. - spirited driving?

I just checked my previous oil sample and my iron was at 15, but I did A LOT of spirited driving on TWS10W60 with 1 QT of M1 0W40 added over a 7K mile sample.

My car is a 2011 with 42k miles so I have NO idea what to look for with the new bearings.

Aluminum - 8
Chromium - 0
Iron - 15
Copper - 5
Lead - 0
Tin - 0
Over on BITOG there are many folks whose iron go up when running the 0-40. It could be a by product of the add pack because many different care all see it. I would not worry about it.
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      11-12-2014, 09:32 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
The first 2 are LM 10W-60. Last one is M1. I actually also have another report for M1 (after a pretty brutal track day and multiple mountain runs) and the lead stayed low. The other metals increased, but were within the average.



I should also mention that my commute to work is only about 10-12 miles. During the winter here, it can go down to 30-40F in the morning. With 10W60, my car would barely get to 210F by the time I get to work, whereas M1 was up to temp within I'd say 6-8 miles. I stay below 3500 RPM until it reaches operating temp, so in the case of 10W60, I couldn't even drive the car like it was meant to. Just FYI
How can I get the analysis like this?

Oil analysis - $25 per sample -> is this?
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      11-12-2014, 09:35 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maicol76 View Post
How can I get the analysis like this?

Oil analysis - $25 per sample -> is this?
Correct
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      12-12-2014, 03:07 AM   #95
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      12-12-2014, 12:54 PM   #96
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^well that settles it. No one should be using any other oil in their M3.
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      12-13-2014, 04:17 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorfast
^well that settles it. No one should be using any other oil in their M3.
Yep
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      02-07-2015, 02:49 AM   #98
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hey guys~

My report is here.

Engine oil is only Liqui Moly 10w60 + Liqui Moly MoS2 addative

I only use my M3 for track use, not daily.

Engine is 2013' (new engine, 48000km(29825miles))


<first report> => 2982miles

3 times trackdays in summer~autumn (max oil temp was 130c)
+ city/highway driving



<second report> => 1705 miles

4 times trackdays in winter (more laps per a trackday, max oil temp was under 120c)


I attached some data I made.
I think L/M 10W60 has lower viscosity than most 10w60 oil in cold temp.
Attached Images
  

Last edited by maicol76; 02-07-2015 at 03:11 AM..
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      07-24-2015, 07:14 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonNYC View Post
So, yesterday I went to a local well-known mechanic for an oil change on my 25K-mile 2012 e93 M3.

He had ordered the TWS but it hadn't come in so he asked if I want to try the Liqui-moly.

Long story short; as soon as the new oil went in I noticed a "ticking" from the engine-- another tech that was consulted described it as "morse code" Pretty loud actually-- and mechanic was flummoxed.

I did some searching last night and also had the good fortune (incredible fortune, I'd say!) to run into a different customer at the shop who told me that Liqui-Moly had made his brother's (non-M) car make the exact same noise-- maybe even louder.

Accordingly, we decided to dump the day old oil and put in TWS-- know what? Ticking gone instantly and mechanic agreed engine just instantly sounded better and quieter instantly.

Now I know people swear by the stuff-- and I'm no mechanic myself (even at the most basic level) BUT the mechanic in question will be well-known to many forum folks-- especially those from NY, Martin at MNC performance.

He recorded the sound and captured the day-old oil to send it back to Liqui-moly to see if they have any opinions.

Certainly possible that something is slightly wrong with my engine and, that-- for some reason-- makes it work better with the TWS. No idea. But there's simply no doubt that in my case, Liquid-Moly was a problem and TWS made the engine run much quieter and smoother. Yes, I know this goes against almost everyone else's experience, but Martin at MNC Performance agreed 100%.
Curious-- I just got a PM from a member here who had a similar experience to mine, described above. But is it fair to say that there have been no other reports of people here experiencing that ticking noise-- that came on with using Liquid-Moly and then immediately disappeared when the called-for oil went back in? (And, of course, no sign of the ticking in the 8K miles I've driven it since then.)

Just curious, I guess, having received that PM just now.

EDIT TO ADD: Ooops! Sorry, now I see the new thread! My apologies!

Last edited by JonNYC; 07-24-2015 at 07:17 PM.. Reason: didn't see other thread before posting.
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      01-09-2018, 12:36 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maicol76 View Post
hey guys~

My report is here.

Engine oil is only Liqui Moly 10w60 + Liqui Moly MoS2 addative

I only use my M3 for track use, not daily.

Engine is 2013' (new engine, 48000km(29825miles))


<first report> => 2982miles

3 times trackdays in summer~autumn (max oil temp was 130c)
+ city/highway driving



<second report> => 1705 miles

4 times trackdays in winter (more laps per a trackday, max oil temp was under 120c)


I attached some data I made.
I think L/M 10W60 has lower viscosity than most 10w60 oil in cold temp.

Does that mean that LM10w60 is the best choice for the winter+summer months?
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      01-09-2018, 07:26 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
Does that mean that LM10w60 is the best choice for the winter+summer months?
Per what I got from their tech support their MRV is on par with Shell and Castrol at a minimum. It likely rivals in the newest iteration.
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      02-01-2018, 02:48 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
Does that mean that LM10w60 is the best choice for the winter+summer months?
I heard LM runs thicker which means worse lubrication of the bearings. Can anyone verify this?
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      03-22-2018, 07:52 PM   #103
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How is iron a by product of an add pack ?
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      03-22-2018, 07:56 PM   #104
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About to do my 3rd oil change using LM. I haven't had any increase in engine noise. It does run just a tad bit hotter than the Castol oil I used to use. But other than that it has performed very well. I buy 2 5gal jugs on amazon for 80 bucks. Can't beat it.
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      03-22-2018, 09:04 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeA View Post
I heard LM runs thicker which means worse lubrication of the bearings. Can anyone verify this?
hearsay, no proof of that.
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      03-22-2018, 10:55 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
hearsay, no proof of that.
Seriously right? Proof from UOAs and TDS puts it on par with the Shell/BMW 10w60 flavor currently available.
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      03-22-2018, 11:16 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarPoor View Post
Seriously right? Proof from UOAs and TDS puts it on par with the Shell/BMW 10w60 flavor currently available.
if you read the comment, I was saying there was no proof that luquimoly is worse lubrication for our rod bearings.
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      03-23-2018, 09:56 AM   #108
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Anyone who thinks there is some magical unicorn juice 10w60 that prevents all engine wear is crazy. The difference between the various 10w60s is pretty small, and for a DD it isn't going to matter.

Get whatever API SN 10w60 is cheapest, use it, and enjoy the car.
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      03-23-2018, 12:52 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
if you read the comment, I was saying there was no proof that luquimoly is worse lubrication for our rod bearings.
And that is how I took it.
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      03-23-2018, 12:54 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Anyone who thinks there is some magical unicorn juice 10w60 that prevents all engine wear is crazy. The difference between the various 10w60s is pretty small, and for a DD it isn't going to matter.

Get whatever API SN 10w60 is cheapest, use it, and enjoy the car.
I agree with that. Hence why I am using LM in my car too.
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