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      03-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #23
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It's Gona be hard to squieze out that extra 10 Horses. Wait for a colder day and I wish u luck. 400 hp club.
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      03-19-2013, 03:34 PM   #24
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OP: you should fill up with a 100/91 octane blend if possible. Make sure you drive around to let your ecu adapt to the higher octane before hitting the dyno. That should give you the extra little push to hit 400whp.
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      03-19-2013, 10:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
It's Gona be hard to squieze out that extra 10 Horses. Wait for a colder day and I wish u luck. 400 hp club.
I imagine the MS pulleys will cover the 10hp needed. If not that, then the upgrade to 240e, if not that, the retune by Frank. +400rwhp WILL be achieved. Failure is not an option here.
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      03-19-2013, 11:42 PM   #26
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Get a BT cable and log some runs. Make sure you are hitting your maximum timing targets for your tune. If you are not than you know you have room for mroe power if you increase your octane. If you are hitting the timing targets (which is unlikely or impossible on 91 except in really cool conditions) then you can mix some race fuel to a mix of 94 and be assured you will hit your targets which advance is 32-34 degrees depending on the tune throughout the powerband.

If you are hitting timing targets than you won't find hp with higher octane, atleast on the dyno

In real world where it gets hot, you do multiple pulls etc. 91 quickly becomes inadequate to even get close to timing targets and 94-95 in the rearl world is what it takes to hit targets with consistent pulls on a 80 degree plus day.

But for dyno measurements you wont see power by adding race gas unless you are not hitting timing targets
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      03-20-2013, 07:32 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirius Black View Post
I imagine the MS pulleys will cover the 10hp needed. If not that, then the upgrade to 240e, if not that, the retune by Frank. +400rwhp WILL be achieved. Failure is not an option here.
In my area m3 with full bolt ons an 240e with tunes get 380 max.
Stock dyno at 335. So 50 whp with Bolt ons is great.
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      03-20-2013, 08:42 PM   #28
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Okay, maxed out a 396rwhp. However, it was 20º warmer this run, plus where I was running my 18" winters before, this time I was on 19x11 VMR V710 anchors wrapped in AD08's. I'm quite pleased with the net gain given the more challenging conditions. Big props to Frank Smith on an excellent tune, and special thanks to Karl @ AA for his contribution. Car feels better than new.
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      03-20-2013, 08:50 PM   #29
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So close brother. It's definitely the rims/tires/and weather. But you know you're over, just not on a daily drive because of the new heavy ass shoes.
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      03-21-2013, 09:57 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by NikB316 View Post
I think the rule of thumb on the 6sps is to dyno in 4th and DCT 5th...may make a small difference.
I stand corrected, all dyno runs were done in 4th gear, not 5th.
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      03-21-2013, 10:37 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirius Black View Post
Okay, maxed out a 396rwhp. However, it was 20º warmer this run, plus where I was running my 18" winters before, this time I was on 19x11 VMR V710 anchors wrapped in AD08's. I'm quite pleased with the net gain given the more challenging conditions. Big props to Frank Smith on an excellent tune, and special thanks to Karl @ AA for his contribution. Car feels better than new.
Agh so you are the one Karl was telling me about. I'm glad all your issues were resolved from your previous "tune'.

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Originally Posted by Sirius Black View Post
I stand corrected, all dyno runs were done in 4th gear, not 5th.
Yep 4th gear is correct for the 6mt.

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      03-21-2013, 11:07 AM   #32
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Just one question, why do you strive for all this performance but put heavy and quite cheap VMR wheels on a great car? The OEM 220's or 359's or even the 18s are lighter, nicer and would give you better performance both dyno and street.
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      03-21-2013, 02:12 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by M3takesNYC View Post
Just one question, why do you strive for all this performance but put heavy and quite cheap VMR wheels on a great car? The OEM 220's or 359's or even the 18s are lighter, nicer and would give you better performance both dyno and street.
Honestly, I just like how they look, and didn't want to spend $4k+ on a set of rims that I would be very concerned about. If I curb, crack, or bend a V710, it's fairly painless to replace. I brought the 18"s to run on the dyno, but ran out of time and didn't get a chance to change them. The 220's are a bit dinged up, going to get them fixed, and powder coated soon. They'll get some Conti DWS for the winter. Shopping now for some light 18's for track days, and autox.
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      03-21-2013, 02:57 PM   #34
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solid power! enjoy
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      03-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirius Black View Post
Honestly, I just like how they look, and didn't want to spend $4k+ on a set of rims that I would be very concerned about. If I curb, crack, or bend a V710, it's fairly painless to replace. I brought the 18"s to run on the dyno, but ran out of time and didn't get a chance to change them. The 220's are a bit dinged up, going to get them fixed, and powder coated soon. They'll get some Conti DWS for the winter. Shopping now for some light 18's for track days, and autox.
You can get a OEM brand new set of the 375's in black from turner motorsport for right around 2k.

I don't know putting VMR wheels that are known to be cheap on a car with 400 wheel hp is asking for problems. They are extremely heavy. I used to have a set of VMR CSl's which are lighter than the vmr and I remember the VMR int his size was 35-36 pounds vs 24-26 for OEM. 10 pounds of rotating weight on each wheel is pretty huge
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      03-21-2013, 09:04 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by M3takesNYC View Post
You can get a OEM brand new set of the 375's in black from turner motorsport for right around 2k.

I don't know putting VMR wheels that are known to be cheap on a car with 400 wheel hp is asking for problems. They are extremely heavy. I used to have a set of VMR CSl's which are lighter than the vmr and I remember the VMR int his size was 35-36 pounds vs 24-26 for OEM. 10 pounds of rotating weight on each wheel is pretty huge
Not that 29lbs is light, but thats what the 19X11's weigh. Seemed like it was a few lbs more than the average rim of equal size, but not 35-36.
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      03-22-2013, 10:09 AM   #37
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Even at 29, that is 5 pounds heavier than stock 220's and that is a ton of weight.

Also looks like with 19 by 11 inch wheels you are running 295s? The yoko's weigh in at 30 pounds per tire at this size which is 6 more than the ps2 stock size.

So you added 10-12 pounds on each wheel/tire, with most of the weight at the outermost portion with the much heavier tires. 12 pounds of rotating weight is huge. Won't effect dyno measures as much but real world acceleration and braking will be huge and the fact its unsprung will really effect handling.

Unless you have a supercharger, going to a super wide tire setup makes no sense if you care at all about performance. If you just care about looks that is fine.

Basically you have 50 pounds of extra weight trying to rotate constantly. Pick up a 50 pound dumbell and that is not light to have to spin and all the energy sucked up doing that is lost

Last edited by M3takesNYC; 03-22-2013 at 10:16 AM..
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      03-22-2013, 05:47 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3takesNYC View Post
Even at 29, that is 5 pounds heavier than stock 220's and that is a ton of weight.

Also looks like with 19 by 11 inch wheels you are running 295s? The yoko's weigh in at 30 pounds per tire at this size which is 6 more than the ps2 stock size.

So you added 10-12 pounds on each wheel/tire, with most of the weight at the outermost portion with the much heavier tires. 12 pounds of rotating weight is huge. Won't effect dyno measures as much but real world acceleration and braking will be huge and the fact its unsprung will really effect handling.

Unless you have a supercharger, going to a super wide tire setup makes no sense if you care at all about performance. If you just care about looks that is fine.

Basically you have 50 pounds of extra weight trying to rotate constantly. Pick up a 50 pound dumbell and that is not light to have to spin and all the energy sucked up doing that is lost
You nailed it, I am going to a supercharged set up. I must say though, the car feels substantially more planted with the 265/295 set up. Even with the power the its making now the 275/30 PSS's were getting blown off in 1st and early 2nd gears.

I'll agree to your point on weight, but for everyday driving it doesn't matter that greatly to me. I will have lighter wheels and tires for track days and auto x events. I just really like the look of those 11" rears, and I'll accept the draw backs being I'll have other options when needed.
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      03-24-2013, 11:06 PM   #39
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OP, can you please post or PM me some info about the shop that did your tuning? I'm local and one of the reasons for not getting a tune so far has been lack of local support in case something goes south...
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      03-25-2013, 01:32 PM   #40
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Just have the dyno operator tweak the correction factor a little more and you can make as much power as you want.
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      03-25-2013, 02:13 PM   #41
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295s are not overkill for 400 whp. I recently went to 295s from 275s and now I can use all of the power available where as spinning was an issue before. It pays dividends in my acceleration times due to the extra grip despite the extra weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3takesNYC View Post
Even at 29, that is 5 pounds heavier than stock 220's and that is a ton of weight.

Also looks like with 19 by 11 inch wheels you are running 295s? The yoko's weigh in at 30 pounds per tire at this size which is 6 more than the ps2 stock size.

So you added 10-12 pounds on each wheel/tire, with most of the weight at the outermost portion with the much heavier tires. 12 pounds of rotating weight is huge. Won't effect dyno measures as much but real world acceleration and braking will be huge and the fact its unsprung will really effect handling.

Unless you have a supercharger, going to a super wide tire setup makes no sense if you care at all about performance. If you just care about looks that is fine.

Basically you have 50 pounds of extra weight trying to rotate constantly. Pick up a 50 pound dumbell and that is not light to have to spin and all the energy sucked up doing that is lost
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      03-25-2013, 04:31 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
OP, can you please post or PM me some info about the shop that did your tuning? I'm local and one of the reasons for not getting a tune so far has been lack of local support in case something goes south...
PM'd
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      03-26-2013, 08:47 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3takesNYC View Post
Whats with these dyno's lately that only go to 6 or 7k? Is this caliberated wrong or did you not go to 8400? Given the shape of the curve I am guessing it is simply labeled or caliberated incorrectly as peak power is at 8300.

I assume you took it all the way to redline? What gear?

I have same mods minus the rear section which does not do a thing for power anyway so its good to know 390 is seemingly about the norm for those things.
Dyno indicates over 8000 if u look closer
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      03-26-2013, 08:53 AM   #44
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FYI. I dynod with 20 inch wheels and with 18s and gained 8 whp.
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