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11-12-2012, 01:34 PM | #1 | |
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Low Pressure / ICV Issue?
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I've been getting rough idle very occasionally for weeks. Then the car died after start-up one morning and I got all of the lights; shut 'er down, restarted and everything was gone. Then I started getting no power on light throttle when going under 10 mph unless I really pushed down. Now this morning it almost died and then did a big over-rev and the SES and increased emissions lights came on. I shut 'er down, waited, and restarted with no change. I set up an appointment with a local dealer but it's 2 weeks out. Question is, is this too long to wait with this problem? Should I be asking for earlier appointment (will do that anyway) and/or try a new dealer? Or do y'all think I'll be good until my appointment? Thanks!!! |
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11-13-2012, 02:04 AM | #2 |
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Stop driving the car. Take it in sooner or find another dealer.
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11-14-2012, 02:37 PM | #3 |
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If it's ICV issues, I can't think of any damage that can be caused by driving it for 2 more weeks. In my past experience with ICV issues (not with M3), once the first symptoms shows, you have about 2 weeks to get it fixed before this happens:
At one point, the car will be undrivable. Every time the car goes into idle even after a peroid of normal driving, the idle will drop so low to a point where the car will stall. In this case to keep the engine running, you need to constantly have your foot on the gas pedal, needless to say, then this becomes a safety issue and you'll need to get the car towed to the dealer. Recommendation: 1. Bump up the appointment 2. don't drive your car unless necessary to delay the timeline (not guanteed it'll continue to work in 2 weeks) 3. anytime within the 2 weeks, drop your car off at the dealer, and use a rental car (not ideal, your car will be sitting in the dealer service lot with minimum supervision, unless you can get them to store it inside for 2 weeks) Last edited by mdosu; 11-14-2012 at 02:51 PM.. |
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11-14-2012, 08:57 PM | #4 |
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Thanks fellas! Well I did get the appointment bumped up to Friday and I haven't had to drive it more than 1 mile/day except today: got in this morning to drive 1/4 mile roundtrip (yes there's a reason but I ain't gonna waste time explaining it) and ... no lights!
Suddenly everything is totally fine so, on a risk, I had a 20 mile drive I was putting off but decided to go for it and no problems - only once did the throttle feel sluggish and only for a second or so. But still no more SES or increased emissions. It will be interesting to see what the dealer says on Friday; going to Gary Wilson @ Mountain View BMW, heard he's good. |
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11-19-2012, 03:02 PM | #5 |
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Word back is that it's the bank 1 throttle actuator valve. In order to get to it they have to take off the intake manifold I guess so it's not a small job. Also sounds like they have to order the part which will take a day ... not sure where from. Anyway, that's the latest
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11-19-2012, 04:53 PM | #6 | |
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11-20-2012, 08:11 AM | #7 |
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11-20-2012, 08:22 AM | #8 |
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BMW of Fairfax. I think the total was around $1,800. Almost 50/50 between the part and the labor, so I paid $900. Its damn expensive for such a small and relatively simple part. I figured I might as well just take it in since I was basically just paying for the part with free labor. I was also under the impression that you had to have the actuator initialized with the dealer software. Now, I'm not so sure if that's the case. They wrote up a blurb on the receipt about the initialization, but W did a nice DIY on the replacement and his appears to be working just fine without initializing. If my bank 1 goes out and no goodwill is given I'll try it myself.
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11-20-2012, 10:12 AM | #9 | |
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11-20-2012, 07:19 PM | #10 |
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The final verdict is in. Looks like they reset my adaptive values ... in a quick drive of the car I haven't noticed any difference but have had hardly any seat time and won't get it for 5 days.
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