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      06-03-2013, 10:15 PM   #23
AxisF80
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So here's my update. Throttle actuator for bank 1 has been replaced. No more SES.

Everything looks good except I accidentally broke the friction fit clip for the big hose on the driver side toward the back that connects to the plenum. One side of the clip broke off. The hose doesn't fit tightly now and I think there's additional intake noise coming from the loose fitting.

Anyone have a part number? What does it connect to? Is the fitting available separately? I looked all over realoem.com and could not find that part.
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      06-03-2013, 10:28 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randall921 View Post
So here's my update. Throttle actuator for bank 1 has been replaced. No more SES.

Everything looks good except I accidentally broke the friction fit clip for the big hose on the driver side toward the back that connects to the plenum. One side of the clip broke off. The hose doesn't fit tightly now and I think there's additional intake noise coming from the loose fitting.

Anyone have a part number? What does it connect to? Is the fitting available separately? I looked all over realoem.com and could not find that part.
forget about it. not necessary at all. i broke mine too. it was such a tight fit and impossible to release so i yanked the intake out and broke the clip in the process. the hose actually fits tightly over the intake. You just have to line it up, then press them together. Put your right hand on the intake to push it down, and the left palm under the hose pushing up. You will feel the two parts come together slightly. You just have to line them up perfectly and use a bit of force. the plastic ring that you broke is not really that necessary.
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      06-04-2013, 06:20 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majin Buu View Post
forget about it. not necessary at all. i broke mine too. it was such a tight fit and impossible to release so i yanked the intake out and broke the clip in the process. the hose actually fits tightly over the intake. You just have to line it up, then press them together. Put your right hand on the intake to push it down, and the left palm under the hose pushing up. You will feel the two parts come together slightly. You just have to line them up perfectly and use a bit of force. the plastic ring that you broke is not really that necessary.
Does anyone know what that hose is actually for?
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      06-04-2013, 09:20 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandye90m3 View Post
Do the new throttle actuator last longer or are more reliable?
They're the same design, so definitely not. The plastic gears inside them wear. A guy over on the M5 forum has started machining gears for the actuators out of copper. I think they've sucessfully fitted them. That would be the only way to ensure the reliability of these actuators.
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      06-04-2013, 10:20 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBB View Post
They're the same design, so definitely not. The plastic gears inside them wear. A guy over on the M5 forum has started machining gears for the actuators out of copper. I think they've sucessfully fitted them. That would be the only way to ensure the reliability of these actuators.
Its not just the gears. The electronics also fail.
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      06-04-2013, 11:05 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majin Buu View Post
Its not just the gears. The electronics also fail.
True, they can, but in the large majority of cases so far the gears have been the point of failure.
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      04-09-2014, 11:38 AM   #29
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Hi!
Did your car still work well after changing the Throtle Actuator?
Did you ever recieve any messages of DSC, POWER REDUCED,etc?

I am currently having this same issue.
Thanks
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      04-24-2014, 09:56 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannuelr1 View Post
Hi!
Did your car still work well after changing the Throtle Actuator?
Did you ever recieve any messages of DSC, POWER REDUCED,etc?

I am currently having this same issue.
Thanks
I just got this issue today. Car drove fine, I got home and turned the car off.

I realized I had to go back out again, started the car and the error messages lit up like a Christmas tree.

I will take it to the dealer tomorrow.
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      05-24-2014, 01:52 PM   #31
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sorry to bring this back to life, but I got this code this morning. Should I replace both banks or just replace the one that's faulty?
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      05-24-2014, 02:28 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
I was the one that wrote the TA DIY. Not a bad job at all, definitely recommend tackling it yourself. The BT should be able to tell you whether it's the ICV or the TA.

When you are done with the DIY, clear the code using the BT and you'll be on your way. Good luck and feel free to PM if you have any questions.
do you know if the standard OBD code scanners at autoparts stores can distinguish between ICV and TA? I got this error message today
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      05-24-2014, 02:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeD View Post
do you know if the standard OBD code scanners at autoparts stores can distinguish between ICV and TA? I got this error message today
Sell it.
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      05-24-2014, 03:29 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Sell it.
Pulled the code from generic scanner...P1628, throttle actuators. Now need BMW or a BT too to tell me which bank.
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      05-24-2014, 03:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeD View Post
Pulled the code from generic scanner...P1628, throttle actuators. Now need BMW or a BT too to tell me which bank.
Then what run in 4 cylinder mode?
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      05-24-2014, 03:55 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Then what run in 4 cylinder mode?
No will drive by local college sorority row and get it out of limp mode
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      05-24-2014, 04:59 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by MikeD View Post
No will drive by local college sorority row and get it out of limp mode
Sounds promising
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      05-24-2014, 05:40 PM   #38
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Uh, this sucks. Have an 08 with 42k miles and it sucks to be anticipating this...
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      05-24-2014, 05:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scutts View Post
Uh, this sucks. Have an 08 with 42k miles and it sucks to be anticipating this...
I think it is a common issue for 2008/09 models
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      05-26-2014, 04:43 AM   #40
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I understand that because the part is the same eventually all our cars will do this. That's the problem with nylon on nylon gears
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      05-26-2014, 12:05 PM   #41
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DSC has always been such an active topic for issues on the forum since its introduction. You can always count on a dct issue thread or several being active, that's since 2008 non stop. Even if dct had no issue my 6MT is so right for me and so much more fun (testdrove both on track). That's why it's better for me. To each their own.
Don't want to start another 6MT vs. DCT but the ratio of DCT issue threads vs. 6MT must be like 50 to 1. It should be mentioned.
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      05-26-2014, 12:27 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsweet View Post
DSC has always been such an active topic for issues on the forum since its introduction. You can always count on a dct issue thread or several being active, that's since 2008 non stop. Even if dct had no issue my 6MT is so right for me and so much more fun (testdrove both on track). That's why it's better for me. To each their own.
Don't want to start another 6MT vs. DCT but the ratio of DCT issue threads vs. 6MT must be like 50 to 1. It should be mentioned.
Uh dsc and dct aren't the same thing.
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      07-17-2014, 08:41 PM   #43
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DSC Malfuntion

Hi all, first post in the forum! I was reading through all the notes on the DSC malfunction tied to the Throttle Actuator- great write ups. Bigger question is how long is the replacement BMW OEM parts good for on both Banks 1 and 2? Another 30-50K miles or have these been upgraded to not break now knowing the weakness of this part?

Also, how likely is the Idle Control Valve to go out on the e92 M3's 50-50 or 30-70? Sounds like the Throttle Actuator is just a wearable part going forward?

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      07-18-2014, 09:15 AM   #44
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Just had this happen to me this morning on my way to work. Idle was really rough on start up and all the same warnings immediately flashed on screen (Engine malfunction reduced power, DCS malfunction, etc.) I went straight to the dealer so I suspect this is what they'll find. Interestingly, on my way there, I pulled over and turned off the car and back on again. When I turned it back on, all the warning lights were gone, system check was OK, and power was normal again. I have a '13 so I guess we're not immune either. Anyway, I'll let you know what the dealer finds.

EDIT: Just got a call from the dealer and Yup, it's the idle actuator. They have to order the part so I'm out the M for the weekend.

Last edited by Rambler; 07-18-2014 at 12:53 PM..
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