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      05-07-2024, 08:47 PM   #23871
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Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
Yeah, I get that. I guess my idea of 'arrive and drive' is just that - arrive and drive. Doing it in an E9X M3 is darn near stupid, but hey, it works. And in its current form, it's comfortable enough as I retain comfort amenities.

Also, I am due for a new car soon, and by 'I am due,' I mean my wife will be getting her own car soon. But if I play my cards right... (long tangent of random words coming up) maybe, I don't know, possibly could potentially see if I can work it in my favor to slightly convince her for a vehicle I could tow with, but at the same time get her something she likes and wants... lol.

I did go to visit to see if I can test drive the Ranger Raptor, which does have a decent towing package of 7500 lbs... and much cheaper than the Toyotas even with the markup... Although realistically, why would I not consider a 25' GX550 Prem+ w/the 9k towing rating...?? (probably cause of the mark up)

Anyways, I do have a shop where I can store a trailer, and my friend has an enclosed one he has offered to let me borrow as long as I have a vehicle to tow it.

Also, how the heck do you drive that massive tank of a truck around OC? I feel the parking lots are small.
i don't dd the f250, i daily a '19 chevy bolt. its a boring, cheap, forgettable, but very practical daily driver.
my wife is probably going to get the new GX. once she does, i'll consider selling the f250... kinda depends. if the gx feels overwhelmed, i'll just keep the truck. although i don't use it much, i really like it when i do.
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      05-09-2024, 10:10 AM   #23872
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i posted up my e90m3 for sale:

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https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...9#post31139399
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      05-09-2024, 02:30 PM   #23873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerunt View Post
i just saw this on CL lol

GLWS man.. i didnt realize it was 20K freaking miles
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      05-09-2024, 02:42 PM   #23874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
i just saw this on CL lol

GLWS man.. i didnt realize it was 20K freaking miles
Kind of trip for sure! I’m already having second thoughts about selling it 😂
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      Yesterday, 04:07 PM   #23875
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I don’t know why this thought hasn’t occurred to me yet, but is there any hope for taking out the rear quarter glass and rear window without breaking it?
If it’s just gunna break I might as well bash it with a hammer to remove it.
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      Yesterday, 04:16 PM   #23876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I don’t know why this thought hasn’t occurred to me yet, but is there any hope for taking out the rear quarter glass and rear window without breaking it?
If it’s just gunna break I might as well bash it with a hammer to remove it.
rear quarter, open your door and literally pull the trim to the front of your car and it will unlock and slide off. then just remove the rest of the trim that goes from the back of the rear quarter and over to the roof to the front, it's all one long piece...just pull on it.

once you get the trim off you can literally take a razer and scrape the glue off the back of the rear window and take it off.

rear glass, remove trim. use razor blade to scrap underneath the glass to loosen glue, take a pry tool and lift the window up, and make your own little tool by 2 cylindered pieces of wood (what ever gives you a good grip) and a loooooooooooooooooong fishing line, probably something like 15lb test line.. and insert it thru the gap between the rear glass and chassis, and on inside of the car, you just have to have someone help you "saw" thru the glue.. this should help remove it with out breaking the glass.
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      Yesterday, 04:21 PM   #23877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
i have no clue... i just recall signs of the highway saying Towing = x speed limit LOL
It varies state by state lol. Pretty sure 55mph is the statewide law for trailers in CA.
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      Yesterday, 04:23 PM   #23878
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I just want to be clear that I'm not fast enough (or hard enough on the car) to need these, but based on what I've seen them go for, I couldn't pass these up. A guy here in town was parting a few cars out and I noticed them in one of the pictures, got the full front/rear set for $3500.

There's some light corrosion on a few of the bolt heads and some areas where the finish slightly rubbed off on the edges of the calipers, so if anybody has pointers on addressing that stuff before installation, that'd be appreciated.
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      Yesterday, 04:30 PM   #23879
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There's some light corrosion on a few of the bolt heads and some areas where the finish slightly rubbed off on the edges of the calipers, so if anybody has pointers on addressing that stuff before installation, that'd be appreciated.
great pick up, $3500 and about $2000 for replacement 4x rotor rings, new hardware. And caliper rebuild kit probably. and you still have a cheaper full AP kit lol

someone will probably correct pricing, but for my alcon kit its $1400 for new rotor rings with hardware. i'm guessing the other $600 is rebuild kit for the caliper(s)
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      Yesterday, 04:47 PM   #23880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
great pick up, $3500 and about $2000 for replacement 4x rotor rings, new hardware. And caliper rebuild kit probably. and you still have a cheaper full AP kit lol

someone will probably correct pricing, but for my alcon kit its $1400 for new rotor rings with hardware. i'm guessing the other $600 is rebuild kit for the caliper(s)
yeah that's kind of what I figured. I don't need to use them right away, but when I do, it'll be cheaper no matter what. and if I never do, I'm pretty sure I can flip them for a profit.

I haven't seen anything about them that would tell me that they would need replacement (and the rotor rings actually look pretty decent up close)
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      Yesterday, 04:57 PM   #23881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northbay View Post
yeah that's kind of what I figured. I don't need to use them right away, but when I do, it'll be cheaper no matter what. and if I never do, I'm pretty sure I can flip them for a profit.

I haven't seen anything about them that would tell me that they would need replacement (and the rotor rings actually look pretty decent up close)
i mean if they are off the car already and unsure of the real condition of it.. just rebuild the caliper while its off at least, and replace the rotor rings w/ hardware at a later time.

just get them checked by a shop that knows AP stuff. should be fine to use right away.
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      Today, 03:50 AM   #23882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
rear quarter, open your door and literally pull the trim to the front of your car and it will unlock and slide off. then just remove the rest of the trim that goes from the back of the rear quarter and over to the roof to the front, it's all one long piece...just pull on it.

once you get the trim off you can literally take a razer and scrape the glue off the back of the rear window and take it off.

rear glass, remove trim. use razor blade to scrap underneath the glass to loosen glue, take a pry tool and lift the window up, and make your own little tool by 2 cylindered pieces of wood (what ever gives you a good grip) and a loooooooooooooooooong fishing line, probably something like 15lb test line.. and insert it thru the gap between the rear glass and chassis, and on inside of the car, you just have to have someone help you "saw" thru the glue.. this should help remove it with out breaking the glass.
Soubds like you’ve done it before…
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      Today, 08:36 AM   #23883
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Just picked up some v730’s (275/35/18) and headed to my first day with them today. Any recommendations on cold/hot pressure targets? Looks like it’s going to be ~92 degrees at Buttonwillow today. Car is around stock weight, I run intermediate group, and care more about longevity than absolute lap times. They’re replacing some RS4’s.
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      Today, 08:53 AM   #23884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanchez14 View Post
Just picked up some v730’s (275/35/18) and headed to my first day with them today. Any recommendations on cold/hot pressure targets? Looks like it’s going to be ~92 degrees at Buttonwillow today. Car is around stock weight, I run intermediate group, and care more about longevity than absolute lap times. They’re replacing some RS4’s.
I liked 30 hot but some say 32 is a better target for this tire. I was at a cool day at Laguna that eventually rained so I needed to get a bit more heat into the tire.
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      Today, 09:52 AM   #23885
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Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney View Post
I liked 30 hot but some say 32 is a better target for this tire. I was at a cool day at Laguna that eventually rained so I needed to get a bit more heat into the tire.
Thanks. Seems like a good place to start.
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