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[R3dliner]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

It's not a stud. It's just the end of the broken off M12x1.5 bolt. These bolts goes through the subframe and front diff mounts and the exhaust hangers hang off the protruding part. You could use pb blaster or kroil and single of double nut it and try to pull it all the way through since the head and shoulder broke off the other end. You could also use heat on the threaded body (not the nut) and then use vise grips but be careful with heat since the gas tank is not far away.

It's a M12x1 not 1.5. Attempting to try the double nut method but these nuts are hard to source. Found some on amazon with prime.

[pbonsalb]

Borrow from the other side to extract while you wait for a new bolt?

[R3dliner]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Borrow from the other side to extract while you wait for a new bolt?

the stock nut is way to big. Two won't fit unfortunately. Dam german's with there engineering.

[R3dliner]

Originally Posted by SonnyJack

I just dealt with this exact issue last weekend. As long as the remaining part of the bolt is not bent, a regular pair of pliers is all you should need to turn it out. I had vice grips ready, but didn't need them. Turn it clockwise and it will work it's way out with minimal to no damage to the threads.

Getting the new bolt to line up is a bit of a bitch, and is going to require you to loosen the other two bolts. In fact I had to remove the top bolt (21mm) in order to line up the new bolt. I went further though and changed all three just for more peace of mind.

Having an extra set of hands along with an extra floor jack will also help because as soon as you remove the top bolt the diff will sag, and it is rather heavy.

All three OEM bolts only set me back $53.

Thx for the tip. Do you recall what torque specs you used?

[SonnyJack]

Originally Posted by R3dliner

Thx for the tip. Do you recall what torque specs you used?

74 ft/lbs for the 18mm

122 ft/lbs for the 21mm

Useful reference here

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1330067

[R3dliner]

Originally Posted by SonnyJack

74 ft/lbs for the 18mm

122 ft/lbs for the 21mm

Useful reference here

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1330067

Thank you kind sir

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by HerbNRacer

This would pull the threads right out of the hole, if the stud didnt break first... Probably not the best method.

maybe i'm not thinking this through, but the bolt head already broke off and he just has a half stick of thread in there now. how would it not just pull through?

[Bimmer Barney]

I need closure. Is this fixed!? :P

[R3dliner]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

I need closure. Is this fixed!? :P

Tried welding a nut and it didn't work. Ended up drilling into the bolt. Had to drop the diff a little bit. What a pain and the ass it was.

This was what was stuck on the diff. As you can see the threads was covered pretty bad with some black crap.

[HerbNRacer]

Originally Posted by R3dliner

Tried welding a nut and it didn't work. Ended up drilling into the bolt. Had to drop the diff a little bit. What a pain and the ass it was.

This was what was stuck on the diff. As you can see the threads was covered pretty bad with some black crap.

Nice work!! Thanks for the update.

[HerbNRacer]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

maybe i'm not thinking this through, but the bolt head already broke off and he just has a half stick of thread in there now. how would it not just pull through?

The threads in the hole would be ripped out with the rest of the stud... You would be in way worse shape with a stripped out diff.