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      12-03-2008, 03:45 PM   #1
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Help jacking car up.

In installing the OEM alarm recently, I used an old hydraulic floor jack that I own. Unfortunately, it did not fit well with the rectangular-shaped jacking point recesses in the bottom of the car (the recesses meant to mate directly with the OEM trunk jack that comes with most other bimmers). The jack has that standard grooved-disc shape plate where the jack is supposed to interface with the car. The jacked up car didn't seem too sturdy. In fact, I heard a few creaks and groans coming as I tugged and pulled on the wheel to remove it. So, I was wondering how I should handle things when I put on the winter rims later this week.

Should I cut a wood block in the shape of the rectangular recess? Is there an adapter that I can use? Or should I just use another point on the frame jack it up?

How do you guys do it?
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      12-03-2008, 04:45 PM   #2
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I use custom-made delrin adapters I bought from Ron Stygar, but these are a close copy:



You can buy at http://www.ecstuning.com
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      12-03-2008, 09:37 PM   #3
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You could also use the central jacking point up front and rear subframe for the rear.
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      12-04-2008, 01:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signes View Post
You could also use the central jacking point up front and rear subframe for the rear.
where are these jacking points located exactly?
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      12-04-2008, 01:57 AM   #5
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if you can cut a wooden block, that's the easiest way to go. i got a wooden block from home depot and borrowed an electric saw and and made my own adapter... i made a few just in case they dont last.
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      12-04-2008, 11:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderco10 View Post
where are these jacking points located exactly?
Anybody have a pic of the under side of the car? The front jacking point is a round rubber protrusion along the front axle line of the car right in the middle (about the diameter of a can of soda and it sticks down about an inch or so below the underbody.) The rear subframe can be seen right in front of the cooling blades for the diff.
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      12-04-2008, 12:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronx Cheer View Post
In installing the OEM alarm recently, I used an old hydraulic floor jack that I own. Unfortunately, it did not fit well with the rectangular-shaped jacking point recesses in the bottom of the car (the recesses meant to mate directly with the OEM trunk jack that comes with most other bimmers). The jack has that standard grooved-disc shape plate where the jack is supposed to interface with the car. The jacked up car didn't seem too sturdy. In fact, I heard a few creaks and groans coming as I tugged and pulled on the wheel to remove it. So, I was wondering how I should handle things when I put on the winter rims later this week.

Should I cut a wood block in the shape of the rectangular recess? Is there an adapter that I can use? Or should I just use another point on the frame jack it up?

How do you guys do it?

For my M5, then the 335i, and now the M3 (and also for my friend's 530i), I used the conventional plate on the jack, but placed a balled-up rag on it. The cars have been very secure, and we did have to resort to some "enthusiastic" tugging to get a wheel off once.

FYI, on the E92 335i (coupe), I had to drive the car up onto a 2x4 to raise the chassis high enough to get the jack under the car. Wasn't an issue with any of the sedans, though.
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      12-05-2008, 12:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signes View Post
Anybody have a pic of the under side of the car? The front jacking point is a round rubber protrusion along the front axle line of the car right in the middle (about the diameter of a can of soda and it sticks down about an inch or so below the underbody.) The rear subframe can be seen right in front of the cooling blades for the diff.
Thanks, because I know you're not supposed to work under a car that's supported only by the hydraulic jack. You're supposed to jack it up and put jack stands under the car.
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      12-05-2008, 12:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderco10 View Post
Thanks, because I know you're not supposed to work under a car that's supported only by the hydraulic jack. You're supposed to jack it up and put jack stands under the car.
That goes without saying (or should), just was answering your question about jacking points.
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      12-05-2008, 01:02 PM   #10
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      12-05-2008, 02:07 PM   #11
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I replaced my wheels last weekend with a new set of winter tires/wheels. I had no idea where the jack points are until I look underneath the car. You will not miss it and I used an hydraulic floor jack. My floor jack got a notch that fits perfectly under the car's jack point.
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      12-05-2008, 02:25 PM   #12
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When I'm doing car jacking, I prefer a .45 caliber, usually held upside down for the gangster effect.
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      12-05-2008, 02:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierman64 View Post
When I'm doing car jacking, I prefer a .45 caliber, usually held upside down for the gangster effect.
I prefer more of a 90 degree turn so it's parallel to the ground.

but maybe I'm less gangsta
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