ESS BPV vent to atmosphere

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by MShift

Maybe I misunderstood and you may be right. I had interpreted "constant whistle" as always whistling throughout the RPM range, not sitting at idle.

yea mine doesn't really make an audible whistling until above 2k and depending on throttle position.

Originally Posted by Matheus

The whistle only come out when you left the throttle.
Specially if you are in higher RPM. At idle the BPV is venting air, but you Just can't hear, cause it's not so much air.
Above 2k RPM you can hear the whistle, but only if you left the throttle off.
With WOT there is not any whistle, cause the BPV is closed to create pressure inside the system.

my thoughts too.

[MShift]

ah partial throttle... its normal for a bpv on a supercharged car to vent at partial throttle, but it is generally routed back into the manifold. As for the metered air, ESS uses the factory ECU and sensors with a tune to adjust for the additional air. I'd imagine venting to atm is throwing the AFR off, but maybe not enough to cause an issue or the ecu is smart enough to make up for it by removing fuel. Those would be my guesses as to why VF said it doesnt matter. Personally, I'd use it the way you're supposed to and plumb it back in.

With the number of supercharged cars on this forum, I'm surprised no one with real knowledge has chimed in.

Edit: one last thing...if what you're looking for is the bov noise while minimizing these issues.. there are some options out there that do both and are adjustable. They will recirc at partial throttle, but will vent to atm under hard vac. Might be able to get rid of your whistling on partial while still getting your bov noises on shifts.

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by spr

Btw. It looks like I may have discovered why my kit was acting weird. The temp sensor is showing -456F! I'm going to replace it and the thermostat as the code is for both. Fingers crossed to get back 580rwhp!

can you explain what temp sensor?

Originally Posted by MShift

ah partial throttle... its normal for a bpv on a supercharged car to vent at partial throttle, but it is generally routed back into the manifold. As for the metered air, ESS uses the factory ECU and sensors with a tune to adjust for the additional air. I'd imagine venting to atm is throwing the AFR off, but maybe not enough to cause an issue or the ecu is smart enough to make up for it by removing fuel. Those would be my guesses as to why VF said it doesnt matter. Personally, I'd use it the way you're supposed to and plumb it back in.

With the number of supercharged cars on this forum, I'm surprised no one with real knowledge has chimed in.

Edit: one last thing...if what you're looking for is the bov noise while minimizing these issues.. there are some options out there that do both and are adjustable. They will recirc at partial throttle, but will vent to atm under hard vac. Might be able to get rid of your whistling on partial while still getting your bov noises on shifts.

I don't care for the noise at all, just trying to reduce hot air into the intake.

[spr]

The water temp sensor.

Originally Posted by Patrón

can you explain what temp sensor?

I don't care for the noise at all, just trying to reduce hot air into the intake.

[spr]

I'm looking into this again to seek more efficiency after I installed my ice tank and reversed the flow and added a bilge pump. BTW, the smallest RULE bilge grossly outflows the stock ESS pump. My normal driving IAT from OBD port is now 100 with a much quicker drop back. The system went from 1 gallon to 7 gallons.

What is the size of the BOV to the rotoform? 1.25" at BOV and 1" at roto or the other 1" is the EGR? ? I'm thinking about running a very long hose to the front of the car from the BOV to reduce the noise. I may also add a vented puke tank and also block off the EGR. It will be interesting to see how it affects IAT'S I've been logging.

Originally Posted by Patrón

i'm not 100% certain but it could be the bolt & screw adjustments on the Bypass valve BUT since you are getting full boost, i wouldn't mess with anything. the sound is just the bpv doing it's job.



On a similar note. I too disconnected the bypass valve connection to the intake as well as the other vent tube (manifold hoses) to the intake. I believe that it's recirculating hot air back into the intake/blower. I used 1in and 1& 1/4in plumbing end caps (rubber caps with metal clamps) to block off the intake holes. I'm trying to do anything to reduce my intake temps.

[spr]

It's speed density. No MAF or MAP. Doesn't matter.

Originally Posted by MShift

I'm not familiar with how the ESS kit does airflow metering, but be careful; you don't want to be venting metered air as it will throw the tune off, make you run rich and lose power. Also, that echoing flutter can be surge from the bpv not opening at all..in which case its a bad thing.

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by spr

I'm looking into this again to seek more efficiency after I installed my ice tank and reversed the flow and added a bilge pump. BTW, the smallest RULE bilge grossly outflows the stock ESS pump. My normal driving IAT from OBD port is now 100 with a much quicker drop back. The system went from 1 gallon to 7 gallons.

What is the size of the BOV to the rotoform? 1.25" at BOV and 1" at roto or the other 1" is the EGR? ? I'm thinking about running a very long hose to the front of the car from the BOV to reduce the noise. I may also add a vented puke tank and also block off the EGR. It will be interesting to see how it affects IAT'S I've been logging.

can you pm me or post here exactly what you mean by "reversed flow"?

[M1rider]

Might help

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by M1rider

Might help

that photo doesn't display any of the water cooling line routing. just a pick of diff bypass valve than the stock one.

[spr]

I made the water flow go backwards. It now runs from the intercooler front fitting to the heat exchanger to the Ess pump then back to ice tank and the bilge pump pushes it back to the rear intercooler fitting. This way it strips the heat first before hitting the ice tank. The prior setup didn't change this as the Ess pump pushes to the heat exchanger. I had to cut the passenger heat exchange hose, move the pump a bit and reverse the fittings in and out for the ESS pump to change the flow back to the tank because again, it was pushing to the heat exchanger before.

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by spr

I made the water flow go backwards. It now runs from the intercooler front fitting to the heat exchanger to the Ess pump then back to ice tank and the bilge pump pushes it back to the rear intercooler fitting. This way it strips the heat first before hitting the ice tank. The prior setup didn't change this as the Ess pump pushes to the heat exchanger. I had to cut the passenger heat exchange hose, move the pump a bit and reverse the fittings in and out for the ESS pump to change the flow back to the tank because again, it was pushing to the heat exchanger before.

Very interesting, do you think it helped lower the water tempature?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by spr

It's speed density. No MAF or MAP. Doesn't matter.

There is a MAP sensor... this is what makes it speed density.

[R_lara]

I think running it with out recirculating you are loosing clean air that passed through the air filter which is pretty much the only restriction in the intake and that same amount of air has to be filtered in again.

[Maxf80M3]

Has any one rebuilt these bypass valves or the older one ??

[jdamore]

Bumping this thread because I was told something very interesting on a FB group. Stupidity is contagious over there but was told this by a "professional" however, its hard for me to believe. The claim is:

If you are venting to atmosphere, by using a small air filter on the intake plenum instead of a cap, you will gain 35hp! The claim is that they found the intake to be restricted and the additional air will give the boost in power.

Anyone actually test this? Far fetched? I'd like to set the record straight. I'll spend the few bucks for a little filter if it actually does something..

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by jdamore

Bumping this thread because I was told something very interesting on a FB group. Stupidity is contagious over there but was told this by a "professional" however, its hard for me to believe. The claim is:

If you are venting to atmosphere, by using a small air filter on the intake plenum instead of a cap, you will gain 35hp! The claim is that they found the intake to be restricted and the additional air will give the boost in power.

Anyone actually test this? Far fetched? I'd like to set the record straight. I'll spend the few bucks for a little filter if it actually does something..

It's an interesting theory, the issue I would have with that is you're sucking in hot static air from inside the engine bay instead of outside rammed air from the outside lower duct. I wouldn't want ANY more heat added to a saturated system which struggles as it is. Also I don't know much about air fluid dynamics but 2 different air sources at different temperatures could create turbulence and work adversely? Maybe someone smarter than me can chime in on that.

[Vuu]

Originally Posted by jdamore

Bumping this thread because I was told something very interesting on a FB group. Stupidity is contagious over there but was told this by a "professional" however, its hard for me to believe. The claim is:

If you are venting to atmosphere, by using a small air filter on the intake plenum instead of a cap, you will gain 35hp! The claim is that they found the intake to be restricted and the additional air will give the boost in power.

Anyone actually test this? Far fetched? I'd like to set the record straight. I'll spend the few bucks for a little filter if it actually does something..

I've ran a filter and a cap, there's no difference lol.

I've left it capped now because I don't want to suck in hot air.

[B8bydesign]

Originally Posted by Vuu

I've ran a filter and a cap, there's no difference lol.

I've left it capped now because I don't want to suck in hot air.

Old thread bump, but is 1.5" the correct K&N breather filter size for the VT2-625 kit? I've read both 1.5" and 1.25" online and wasn't sure which is correct.

[1SloeEm3]

Originally Posted by B8bydesign

Old thread bump, but is 1.5" the correct K&N breather filter size for the VT2-625 kit? I've read both 1.5" and 1.25" online and wasn't sure which is correct.

I went through the same issue. 1.5 I.D is the correct one.

[samtwatson]

Bumping this. Looking to do the same vent to atmosphere with the ESS G1 kit. Is the breather 1.25" or 1.5"? I've also been told some people are seeing 1-2 psi increase by doing this bypass but I'm in it for the "wooosh!" (6-speed manual here). Thank you for all the information in this thread!