Can't stand it any longer, upgrading the subs

[Technic]

Originally Posted by PunjabiM3

So let me see if I have this figured out correctly. If I purchase the LOC that Technic is selling (pre-spliced into an OEM like harness), I need to just use that to integrate the aftermarket amp with the stock amp. Are we utilizing the stock wiring to the SWS subs or do I need to run speaker wire through the cabin to the subs?

You can use the 12AWG OEM wire already layout to the OEM woofers at the OEM audio connector to connect your SWS-8.

If that's what you want to do then once I have more harnesses to sell just describe exactly what you want to do in your order and I would send you the harness already made for SWS-8 (you still can use it for a subwoofer as well, but with a 4-channel amp), so your aftermarket amp SWS-8 outputs connection is made at my harness.

[quality_sound]

Did I not see the harness sale thread??

edit: NVM, I found it. I got all excited until I read about your problems with the tooling company. I might have to break doan and cut wires.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Did I not see the harness sale thread??

edit: NVM, I found it. I got all excited until I read about your problems with the tooling company. I might have to break doan and cut wires.

no need to cut wires
i just wrote down where each colour goes
and pulled out individual pins from the OEM connector
when i want to go back to stock i just reinsert the pins in the correct locations and i'm set

[quality_sound]

But in the mean time where do you connect the pins? I'm a butt/bullet connector fan, mostly because in all my years on car audio I never got the hang of soldering and a properly crimped connection is mechanically stronger anyway, so I can't just wrap wires around the pin and tape it.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Did I not see the harness sale thread??

edit: NVM, I found it. I got all excited until I read about your problems with the tooling company. I might have to break doan and cut wires.

That's the HiFi connector, not the Enhanced Premium Audio harness. I just sold all the harnesses and I have to wait for more to be shipped...

[quality_sound]

I have HiFi so I'm in the group still jonesing for some Technic harness love.

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

... so I can't just wrap wires around the pin and tape it.

so much for my method
that's what i did
i made sure to strip a lot of the speaker/rca wire so i make multiple turns then electrical tape

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by quality_sound

Did I not see the harness sale thread??

edit: NVM, I found it. I got all excited until I read about your problems with the tooling company. I might have to break doan and cut wires.

Cut it and reterminate with molex connectors. As long as you have the proper crimper, its a solid connection and it makes it easy to return to stock if necessary. I was always a butt connector guy too but always got frustrated when you have to cut it again to change the install and the wire gets shorter everytime you cut it. With the molex, you cut once and then make new adapters for whatever you're trying to connect if you need to change up your install.

I just started thinking about this because I'm actually considering a change in amps. If I go to something with conventional RCA inputs, I'll have to remove my symbilink adapter and make another one with female RCA plugs. It will be easy to do that since the molex is there. Just switch out the side with the symbilink adapter to one terminated with the RCA plugs. Pretty much plug and play.

[PunjabiM3]

Originally Posted by Technic

You can use the 12AWG OEM wire already layout to the OEM woofers at the OEM audio connector to connect your SWS-8.

If that's what you want to do then once I have more harnesses to sell just describe exactly what you want to do in your order and I would send you the harness already made for SWS-8 (you still can use it for a subwoofer as well, but with a 4-channel amp), so your aftermarket amp SWS-8 outputs connection is made at my harness.

So if running a two channel amp then the best option is to just run speaker wire from the amp directly to each SWS-8 sub correct? Most likely I am going to go with the Rockford P300-2 amp and the 2-ohm SWS-8 subs. So here is the list I have gathered on what i need:

1. 2 channel amp
2. two SWS-8 subs, 2-ohm
3. your harness/LOC to integrate the factory amp to the aftermarket amp
4. speaker wire to run from the aftermarket amp to the subs
5. power and ground wire (8 gauge sufficient I think) to the aftermarket amp as well as an inline fuse holder
6. spacers sold by member "jtsherri" for the subs and the carpet hold down

Hopefully that's it. If I am leaving anything out let me know!

[jml]

Originally Posted by PunjabiM3

So if running a two channel amp then the best option is to just run speaker wire from the amp directly to each SWS-8 sub correct? Most likely I am going to go with the Rockford P300-2 amp and the 2-ohm SWS-8 subs. So here is the list I have gathered on what i need:

1. 2 channel amp
2. two SWS-8 subs, 2-ohm
3. your harness/LOC to integrate the factory amp to the aftermarket amp
4. speaker wire to run from the aftermarket amp to the subs
5. power and ground wire (8 gauge sufficient I think) to the aftermarket amp as well as an inline fuse holder
6. spacers sold by member "jtsherri" for the subs and the carpet hold down

Hopefully that's it. If I am leaving anything out let me know!

-Will need a remote turn on line as well.
-You may find it easier to use the OEM integrated battery distribution block, which requires a couple OEM parts to make a connector.
- If you're doing enhanced audio, I HIGHLY recommend more tuning ability that what comes with the P300-2. It has only fixed Q and center frequency (35hz) and the remote only adjusts the amplitude. Having an adjustable Q, center frequency, and remote control of the volume is something I am extremely glad I went with. Bass drums hit you in the chest at 50-60Hz, and if you like rock music, this is key. After sitting with an RTA for hours, the SVS-8 (and the environment and placement) does not leave you a lot to work with...it is what it is at lower levels. The biggest gap in the FR for this car is 100-200Hz, so I used the parametric eq to tune the system to be "happier" with rock music rather than try to fix smaller holes in the 40-100Hz range. Anything below 30Hz kills the SVS and adds harmonics that destroy the rest of the spectrum.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by PunjabiM3

So if running a two channel amp then the best option is to just run speaker wire from the amp directly to each SWS-8 sub correct? Most likely I am going to go with the Rockford P300-2 amp and the 2-ohm SWS-8 subs. So here is the list I have gathered on what i need:

1. 2 channel amp
2. two SWS-8 subs, 2-ohm
3. your harness/LOC to integrate the factory amp to the aftermarket amp
4. speaker wire to run from the aftermarket amp to the subs
5. power and ground wire (8 gauge sufficient I think) to the aftermarket amp as well as an inline fuse holder
6. spacers sold by member "jtsherri" for the subs and the carpet hold down

Hopefully that's it. If I am leaving anything out let me know!

No need to run new wire, you can use the woofer wires in my harness.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by jml

-Will need a remote turn on line as well.
-You may find it easier to use the OEM integrated battery distribution block, which requires a couple OEM parts to make a connector.
- If you're doing enhanced audio, I HIGHLY recommend more tuning ability that what comes with the P300-2. It has only fixed Q and center frequency (35hz) and the remote only adjusts the amplitude. Having an adjustable Q, center frequency, and remote control of the volume is something I am extremely glad I went with. Bass drums hit you in the chest at 50-60Hz, and if you like rock music, this is key. After sitting with an RTA for hours, the SVS-8 (and the environment and placement) does not leave you a lot to work with...it is what it is at lower levels. The biggest gap in the FR for this car is 100-200Hz, so I used the parametric eq to tune the system to be "happier" with rock music rather than try to fix smaller holes in the 40-100Hz range. Anything below 30Hz kills the SVS and adds harmonics that destroy the rest of the spectrum.

I don't have any issues with letting the SWS roll off naturally on the bottom end. Running test tones and sign sweeps, I've never heard any noticeable objection from the woofers when playing between 20 and 30 Hz. The output at 25 is more felt than heard but at 20 its non-existant. Still, it hasn't added any noticeable distortion. I'm running a bit more power into them than most people here are though so maybe that is helping a little especially at lower volumes. I'm running 500W RMS into the pair so they are getting roughly 250W each.

[jml]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

I don't have any issues with letting the SWS roll off naturally on the bottom end. Running test tones and sign sweeps, I've never heard any noticeable objection from the woofers when playing between 20 and 30 Hz. The output at 25 is more felt than heard but at 20 its non-existant. Still, it hasn't added any noticeable distortion. I'm running a bit more power into them than most people here are though so maybe that is helping a little especially at lower volumes. I'm running 500W RMS into the pair so they are getting roughly 250W each.

I have a subsonic kicking in at 25hz - but the biggest issue is pushing in a boost at 35hz like most amps have - at least for me that did not lead to good things from a harmonic distortion standpoint.

[808MGuy]

Originally Posted by jml

I have a subsonic kicking in at 25hz - but the biggest issue is pushing in a boost at 35hz like most amps have - at least for me that did not lead to good things from a harmonic distortion standpoint.

I see. I have all bass boost features turned off right now and it doesn't sound like I'll need to turn it on because the response is pretty good without it.

[quality_sound]

Originally Posted by 808MGuy

Cut it and reterminate with molex connectors. As long as you have the proper crimper, its a solid connection and it makes it easy to return to stock if necessary. I was always a butt connector guy too but always got frustrated when you have to cut it again to change the install and the wire gets shorter everytime you cut it. With the molex, you cut once and then make new adapters for whatever you're trying to connect if you need to change up your install.

I just started thinking about this because I'm actually considering a change in amps. If I go to something with conventional RCA inputs, I'll have to remove my symbilink adapter and make another one with female RCA plugs. It will be easy to do that since the molex is there. Just switch out the side with the symbilink adapter to one terminated with the RCA plugs. Pretty much plug and play.

I've got some molexes (it's how I added my Navone LOC in my GTI) I just need some more pins I think. I just really didn't want to do any cutting if I could help it.

[jml]

Quick update - my MX-1 just pooped. Totally dead. Trying to decide between another MX-1 and a 3Sixty.2

[Technic]

Originally Posted by jml

Quick update - my MX-1 just pooped. Totally dead. Trying to decide between another MX-1 and a 3Sixty.2

Those OEM amp woofer high level outputs are a bitch, aren't they?

[jml]

Originally Posted by Technic

Those OEM amp woofer high level outputs are a bitch, aren't they?

Assuming that's the case - it's supposed to handle 40V at 4ohms. It's not that the output/input stage is dead, it will not turn on. Some other folks have been having trouble as well apparently. Trying another unit, if that fails then on to something more robust.

[jml]

I forgot to update this thread. When my MX1 popped, I switched to a 3Sixty. No issues in 8 months. The 3Sixty provides some nice eq/phase, crossover and time adjustments. Volume control is helpful.

[greddm]

Switched to the CD Changer panel (don't order from Tischer, it cost $45 to

I know this is a really old post but I can't find the side panel that you used here anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction.

[webninja]

Sedan = P/N 51477070549
Coupe = P/N 51476956431

That's what I have in my notes, but I've not bought mine yet (need one for my sedan), so let me know where you get one.

[greddm]

Thanks. I'll let you know - I'm trying to decide where to mount my amps.