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      03-06-2010, 07:43 PM   #67
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BTW, the car is equipped with the iPod interface. It even has the little pouch for it under the console armrest. I'll be trying that out along with some CDs tomorrow to see how it sounds. The AM/FM radio sucks. What I really mean is that AM/FM radio in general sucks. I don't think the car has HD radio but I'll find out later. If it weren't for CD, HD radio and iPod there be no reason to upgrade the audio in this car.
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      03-06-2010, 09:36 PM   #68
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i agree - i find that the quality of the radio AND satellite are HORRENDOUS.. i get so much static on normal radio stations that it's almost unusable - i don't have HD radio unfortunately. the dealer blamed this on tinted windows, which seems to be a ridiculous excuse considering that my tint is ceramic and is made to not interfere with comfort access and radio. my last car sounded very good with standard am/fm and the drop in quality was not nearly as noticeable, though obviously considerable (this was with a high end aftermarket system).

the little ipod couch is pretty awesome - just wish that ipods had direct digital outs.
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      03-06-2010, 11:20 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ersin View Post
BTW, the car is equipped with the iPod interface. It even has the little pouch for it under the console armrest. I'll be trying that out along with some CDs tomorrow to see how it sounds. The AM/FM radio sucks. What I really mean is that AM/FM radio in general sucks. I don't think the car has HD radio but I'll find out later. If it weren't for CD, HD radio and iPod there be no reason to upgrade the audio in this car.
ipod also means USB
so you can throw some MP3s on a flash drive and listen to them
that's what i do
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      04-07-2010, 03:19 AM   #70
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More progress on this hi-fi system upgrade. It seems to me that the specified output voltage of the hi-fi HU is not really 5V. My Zapco amp gains are nearly maxed out on the input and output gains. The sound stays clean and undistorted all the way up to max volume but the system just seems to run out of gas when it should have a bit more output. I've decided to try pumping up the signal voltage by installing a line driver between the HU and the amp. Because the signal coming out of the HU are already balanced, choices were limited. I really wanted to go with a Tru SSLD6 line driver but a conversation with the engineer at Tru brought me to the conclusion that the SSLD6 will not accept a balanced differential input. My only options for a stand alone line driver was the Audiocontrol Matrix or Overdrive or the Zapco SLB-U. I decided to go with the Zapco because that would eliminate any unwanted conversions from balanced to unbalanced and then back to balanced again. The Audiocontrol unit accept the balanced diff signal but the output signal is still common ground. So entering the amp it would get converted back to balanced again. I ordered to Zapco SLB-U modules to boost the voltage of both inputs I have going into the amp right now as recommended by Zapco.

We'll see if this makes a significant improvement. I'm waiting for it to arrive and probably won't have it installed until the end of the month. I have another project to tackle when I get some free time. I have to install a Kenwood DNX 9140 nav head unit into my dad's 07 Corvette. I think he just wants it so he can install a backup camera and have nav but I got a killer deal on this unit as a closeout from my local dealer so I couldn't pass up the extra features. Next project after that is a full system upgrade in my brother's 06 Corvette. Then hopefully I'll get back to my own system.
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      04-07-2010, 06:06 AM   #71
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Run the SLB-U!!!! Depending on how you set it up you can end up with a remote sub level control. I'm going to run 2 of them to take the OEM balanced signal and bump it up as well as give me a remote sub level control.

Hit up Bing. He's the man and gives pretty good discounts, especially to DIYMA members.

I HATE working on 'Vettes. I feel for you, Billy.

edit: Just saw that you already ordered it.
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      04-07-2010, 06:46 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
More progress on this hi-fi system upgrade. It seems to me that the specified output voltage of the hi-fi HU is not really 5V. My Zapco amp gains are nearly maxed out on the input and output gains. The sound stays clean and undistorted all the way up to max volume but the system just seems to run out of gas when it should have a bit more output. I've decided to try pumping up the signal voltage by installing a line driver between the HU and the amp. Because the signal coming out of the HU are already balanced, choices were limited. I really wanted to go with a Tru SSLD6 line driver but a conversation with the engineer at Tru brought me to the conclusion that the SSLD6 will not accept a balanced differential input. My only options for a stand alone line driver was the Audiocontrol Matrix or Overdrive or the Zapco SLB-U. I decided to go with the Zapco because that would eliminate any unwanted conversions from balanced to unbalanced and then back to balanced again. The Audiocontrol unit accept the balanced diff signal but the output signal is still common ground. So entering the amp it would get converted back to balanced again. I ordered to Zapco SLB-U modules to boost the voltage of both inputs I have going into the amp right now as recommended by Zapco.

We'll see if this makes a significant improvement. I'm waiting for it to arrive and probably won't have it installed until the end of the month. I have another project to tackle when I get some free time. I have to install a Kenwood DNX 9140 nav head unit into my dad's 07 Corvette. I think he just wants it so he can install a backup camera and have nav but I got a killer deal on this unit as a closeout from my local dealer so I couldn't pass up the extra features. Next project after that is a full system upgrade in my brother's 06 Corvette. Then hopefully I'll get back to my own system.
Would you need two SLB-U to retain the OEM fader? What about the SLB-TP4? It is two SLB-U in one chassis.
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      04-07-2010, 10:43 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Would you need two SLB-U to retain the OEM fader? What about the SLB-TP4? It is two SLB-U in one chassis.
Actually, the SLB-TP4 input is common ground if I'm not mistaken. It has RCA inputs but I never looked to see if it had symbilink inputs as well. I did order 2 SLB-Us but not for fader reasons. I'm running the whole system off the front but the rear speaker remain OEM and run off the OEM amp so fade is maintained. The reason for running 2 SLB-Us is because I'm splitting the front signal into 2 right now and running them into the amp to give me independent input gain controls for 2 sets out of the 3 sets of channels. I could have gone with three to make all three sets of channels have independent input gains but Zapco recommended using two so I didn't have to split the input signal 3 ways.
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      04-07-2010, 10:45 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
Run the SLB-U!!!! Depending on how you set it up you can end up with a remote sub level control. I'm going to run 2 of them to take the OEM balanced signal and bump it up as well as give me a remote sub level control.

Hit up Bing. He's the man and gives pretty good discounts, especially to DIYMA members.

I HATE working on 'Vettes. I feel for you, Billy.

edit: Just saw that you already ordered it.
I'm not planning to use the remote level controller yet but it is an option in the future if I feel I need it. In all my cars, I have never installed the remote sub level controllers because I never use them. I'm pretty much a set it and forget it kind of guy.
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      04-07-2010, 12:24 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Actually, the SLB-TP4 input is common ground if I'm not mistaken. It has RCA inputs but I never looked to see if it had symbilink inputs as well. I did order 2 SLB-Us but not for fader reasons. I'm running the whole system off the front but the rear speaker remain OEM and run off the OEM amp so fade is maintained. The reason for running 2 SLB-Us is because I'm splitting the front signal into 2 right now and running them into the amp to give me independent input gain controls for 2 sets out of the 3 sets of channels. I could have gone with three to make all three sets of channels have independent input gains but Zapco recommended using two so I didn't have to split the input signal 3 ways.

I asked Bing the same thing and he said you'd have to convert to unbalanced to run the TP4 where the SLB-U would be balanced the whole way. It will cost more since you'll need two but I think the bebefits would be worth it. Plus with the SLB-U you can use it as a volume for that input or a 1-band eq or both. It's a pretty cool piece.

Unfortunately I don't think my plan to run a 650.6 and 1000.4 will work though.

Billy, will the DSP6 (same height as the DC Refs) fit under the floor, either where your 650.6 is or up by the front? I think it MIGHT fit in the changer location but I need to look but to go this way I'd have to run the Morel and DLS tweeter passive.

The MS-8 might be an option if it fits but then I'd have to see what parts I need to make a center channel work and then get another driver to fit in there. Hopefully there's room for a mid and tweeter in there otherwise I'd have to run a coax.

This might not matter if the amps have already shipped, however.
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      04-07-2010, 01:20 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
I asked Bing the same thing and he said you'd have to convert to unbalanced to run the TP4 where the SLB-U would be balanced the whole way. It will cost more since you'll need two but I think the bebefits would be worth it. Plus with the SLB-U you can use it as a volume for that input or a 1-band eq or both. It's a pretty cool piece.

Unfortunately I don't think my plan to run a 650.6 and 1000.4 will work though.

Billy, will the DSP6 (same height as the DC Refs) fit under the floor, either where your 650.6 is or up by the front? I think it MIGHT fit in the changer location but I need to look but to go this way I'd have to run the Morel and DLS tweeter passive.

The MS-8 might be an option if it fits but then I'd have to see what parts I need to make a center channel work and then get another driver to fit in there. Hopefully there's room for a mid and tweeter in there otherwise I'd have to run a coax.

This might not matter if the amps have already shipped, however.
I'll take a picture tonight so you can see the clearances. I'm not sure if I'll be able to portray it well in a picture but I'll try. I wonder if the DSP6 will fit in that smaller compartment closer to the rear seat. In my car, there's an empty compartment on the drivers side near the rear seat. Its under the section of the floor that doesn't fold up. This is where I plan to mount the SLB-Us. The DSP6 might fit there without issues but I'm not sure myself. Just from eyeballing it, it looks like clearance decreases as you move closer to the trunk lid.

The empty compartment is at the top left corner of this picture
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      04-07-2010, 01:38 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Actually, the SLB-TP4 input is common ground if I'm not mistaken. It has RCA inputs but I never looked to see if it had symbilink inputs as well. I did order 2 SLB-Us but not for fader reasons. I'm running the whole system off the front but the rear speaker remain OEM and run off the OEM amp so fade is maintained. The reason for running 2 SLB-Us is because I'm splitting the front signal into 2 right now and running them into the amp to give me independent input gain controls for 2 sets out of the 3 sets of channels. I could have gone with three to make all three sets of channels have independent input gains but Zapco recommended using two so I didn't have to split the input signal 3 ways.
You are correct...
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      04-07-2010, 01:40 PM   #78
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if you want
you can get the chassis that fits in that spot
and you can also get the OEM fan that fits there
if you think you'll have a problem with heat
this is how it looks if you have the SAT radio
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      04-07-2010, 01:47 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmarei View Post
if you want
you can get the chassis that fits in that spot
and you can also get the OEM fan that fits there
if you think you'll have a problem with heat
this is how it looks if you have the SAT radio
OEM fan? Tell me more.
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      04-07-2010, 02:50 PM   #80
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Agreed, that's good info there.

I don't know why but my car came with Sat Radio (obviously disabled being in Germany) but there is no module there. Mine's a 2010 but if I had to add that when I go back stateside I'm screwed for getting anything in there.
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      04-07-2010, 03:29 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
OEM fan? Tell me more.
check out REALOEM
under
Audio, Navigation, Electronic Systems => Radio, multi-information display


i don't know if you will have the other side of the plug that fits into the plug that comes out of the fan
but at least you can just wire the fan to remote (using a relay) or something
PM your email and i have a few more pics of the chassis and the fan i took when i was selling my sat radio module
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      04-07-2010, 03:30 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
Agreed, that's good info there.

I don't know why but my car came with Sat Radio (obviously disabled being in Germany) but there is no module there. Mine's a 2010 but if I had to add that when I go back stateside I'm screwed for getting anything in there.
some cars have the sat radio module above the amp
the guy i sold my sat radio module to, had to buy a second chassic to mount it above the amp as that's where his wiring was
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      04-07-2010, 03:33 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
Agreed, that's good info there.

I don't know why but my car came with Sat Radio (obviously disabled being in Germany) but there is no module there. Mine's a 2010 but if I had to add that when I go back stateside I'm screwed for getting anything in there.
Your MY2010 iDrive has the Sirius tuner built in. If you paid for it when you ordered your M3 then it is active, it is just not picking up any satellites over there.

If you did not pay for it at order then you will need a $375 programming session at your dealer to load the FSC codes to enable it. It will include a year of service, though...
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      04-07-2010, 11:35 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Your MY2010 iDrive has the Sirius tuner built in. If you paid for it when you ordered your M3 then it is active, it is just not picking up any satellites over there.

If you did not pay for it at order then you will need a $375 programming session at your dealer to load the FSC codes to enable it. It will include a year of service, though...
It was ordered with the car but it doesn't show up as a source, just AM and FM. If I have to pay for it again later I'm not going to be happy.

In other news my amps are aleady on the way so unless a miracle happens I'll be selling them in the very near future and probably doing 900/5s and either a DSP6 or MS-8.
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      04-08-2010, 06:28 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quality_sound View Post
It was ordered with the car but it doesn't show up as a source, just AM and FM. If I have to pay for it again later I'm not going to be happy.

In other news my amps are aleady on the way so unless a miracle happens I'll be selling them in the very near future and probably doing 900/5s and either a DSP6 or MS-8.
Most probably the activation will be done once you come back to the USA at your first dealer service/visit. Just ask for the activation and any software updates at the same time...
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      04-08-2010, 06:42 AM   #86
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Thinking about your post this morning I looked in the radio menu again and now I not only have Am anf FM but satellite and another option I can't remember. Weird. Although that might explain why the dealer wanted the car for an entire day to do the 1200 mile service.
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      04-24-2010, 09:18 PM   #87
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I finally got my SLB-Us installed this afternoon. I was able to turn down the input gain significantly but the output gain is still at about 85% of max. I noticed that the amp runs noticeably cooler after about 15 minutes of play at max volume but the side of the amp where the outputs for channels 5/6 is still pretty hot. Probably because I'm running it a 2 ohms mono without the low impedence switch engaged. The light is not blinking so I have never felt the need to turn it on.

Prior to the installation of the SLB-Us, the entire amp would be almost untouchable after a similar workout at max volume. I guess only time will tell how much this helped the heat issue. On another note, I was looking at a 6 channel Zuki and contemplating trying to acquire a BitOne if I really can't get this to work to my satisfaction. I need to find out what the dimensions are on the Zuki though.
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      04-25-2010, 02:24 AM   #88
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The Zuki is quite a bit taller that the Zapco. Over 3" in fact. It won't fit in the tub. Oh, flip the switch. Trust me, the amp will be better for it.
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