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03-29-2013, 10:26 AM | #1 |
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X-pipe Install and Reinforcement Plate - Follow-up Question
I have a follow-up question for those that did the install without removing the reinforcement plate. I looked under the car today to make sure I could access everything before attempting the install. There's no problem getting to the copper header nuts by hand or with a crows foot. Everything else is definitely easy to access with just the transmission undertray removed, except for one thing.
On the passenger side there is a heat shield for the primary O2 sensor plugs (and another plug as well). Here's a couple of photos: There are two 10mm bolts that hold the heat shield in place and it appears that the O2 sensor cannot be disconnected without removing or at least moving the heat shield. The upper bolt goes into a hexagonal spacer while the lower bolt is held in place with a nut. The nut on the lower bolt is pretty much inaccessible with any tools or even one's hands. How did those of you who removed your x-pipe without removing the reinforcement plate tackle that O2 sensor plug? ************************************************** ************************************************ ORIGINAL POST: Quick question regarding x-pipe installations. Can anyone confirm whether the reinforcement plate has to be loosened or removed to remove and install the M3's x-pipe (i.e., is it possible to install/remove the x-pipe without loosening or removing the reinforcement plate)? I saw the EAS Akra install video and they loosened the reinforcement plate (but did not remove it). If it has to be removed, are the bolts torque to yield bolts (per BMW)? Thanks! Last edited by rantarM3; 04-20-2013 at 05:06 PM.. |
03-29-2013, 01:20 PM | #2 |
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What is the reinforcement plate? You will likely have to loosen up the engine undertray although it need not be removed. You will have to remove a bracket over the driver's side 02 Sensor if you want to disconnect it. You will have to remove the tranny undertray. You will undo the front flexi hangers. You will remove the midbrace or support with the x-pipe still attached to it.
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03-29-2013, 02:34 PM | #3 |
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I find it much much easier to remove the reinforcement plate. It's only a few more bolts and it comes right off, and you can reach the 02 sensor plugs and the nuts on the midpipe->header connection much easier.
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03-29-2013, 03:26 PM | #4 |
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I removed it each time - Too much a PITA getting to the nuts on back. Like Kitw said, it's just a few bolts & doesn't take but a few minutes.
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04-20-2013, 08:10 PM | #8 |
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I take the little heat shield on the driver's side off. To do that, I have to remove the rear undertray bolts and the center ones so it is just hanging from the front. That gives me several more inches. No problem then. Done this several times.
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04-20-2013, 10:00 PM | #9 |
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On the passenger side, i was able to just unplug the sensor then unclip the wire. I had to loosen the skid plate though to get the driver side unplugged. There are two 10mm screws that hold the bracket in place, they needed go be loosened in order to free the connector and wire. Its not too difficult.
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04-21-2013, 06:40 PM | #10 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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04-21-2013, 08:00 PM | #11 |
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The nut is captive to whatever assembly is behind the bracket. You need not worry about the nut. Just remove the two 10 mm bolts.
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04-22-2013, 07:20 AM | #12 |
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I ended up partly removing the metal undertray to remove the shield. It was just a few bolts, I then pulled it down a little and it was easier to get to the nuts. An extra 5 or less minutes to the job and makes it easier to get to the nuts.
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04-22-2013, 11:09 AM | #13 | |
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I know there are only 7 bolts but based on experience with my E46 M3, these are torque to yield bolts. It's not so easy to get them torqued and then get the additional 90 degrees (or whatever the correct spec is) on them while on your back under the car. If I can get away without taking it off, that's what I'd prefer to do. |
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04-22-2013, 11:42 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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04-30-2013, 11:57 AM | #16 |
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04-30-2013, 01:29 PM | #17 |
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Interesting. I bet a lot of people have had that off or loose and few have replaced the bolts or done the proper torque sequence.
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04-30-2013, 07:24 PM | #19 |
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Great to know, thanks for posting the values.
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05-06-2013, 10:54 AM | #20 |
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Could someone post the TIS? I need convincing these are really non-resuseable torque to yield bolts as opposed to bolts that just have a torque to angle spec for tightening. Not all torque to angle specs are torque to yield. I would also like the specs so I can measure to see if mine really need replacement.
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05-06-2013, 07:39 PM | #21 | |
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You are correct. These are one-time use bolts.
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Replace screws Jointing torque 56 Nm Torque angle 90 degrees. I suspected that these were one time TTY bolts because that's how they are on the E46 M3. When I installed headers on my E46, I researched the issue and also found that TIS indicated TTY bolts that were one-time use. Many people don't even bother replacing the bolts but because I'm a stickler for doing things as required by the repair literature, I replace my bolts and follow the proper torque sequence. I even purchased a gauge that gives me the exact torque angle. Hope this is useful information. |
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09-08-2019, 10:27 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
I found a post from an E46 M3 forum where a guy measure 0.015" of stretch on the similar bolts on the E46. That seems like it is not really worth worrying about. Quite a few people said they re-use the bolts and have never had an issue. This really seems like a bolt that just needs to be good-and-tight or tight-as-fuk. They are ~$6 each in Canada. I know an extra $45 is not going to kill me, but I hate to spend money for no reason. Cheers,
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