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04-06-2014, 09:13 PM | #23 | |
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Anodizing scratching vs. proper paintwork is not a truly fair comparison, but I'm surprised you had those issues w/ the clearcoat failure. I have seen it before on BBS wheels, but over time, and I personally never saw it on any of my wheels. It's no diff than a painted wheel which is nearly 99.9% of all wheels on the road. |
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04-06-2014, 11:15 PM | #24 | |
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I'm not sure why I have had the issues with clear coat peeling but I will say that the hre wheel with the issue was almost 10 years ago so I'm sure they have improved finishes today. Even if that's the case, I would still go with a polished lip for the repair ability.
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04-06-2014, 11:50 PM | #25 |
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Polished wheels do look good when clean and your right about being able to clean/repair. I took a set of Weld Draglites that looked like the were black/rusted back to a mirror finish.
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04-07-2014, 12:22 PM | #26 |
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Brett, my experience with the clearcoat peeling also has me wary going that route again, similar to how my chrome peeling now has me wary.
1-2 min per lip on an uncleared, polished lip works for me. If anything, I can give it a try and clear it later if I don't like the added labor. Easier to go that route than clear it first and remove it later. |
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04-07-2014, 08:56 PM | #27 | |
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'04 M3 - Fall Line Motorsports Built Race Car - S65 swap, Dry Sump, Bosch Stand-Alone ECU, Drenth Sequential Trans, MCS 3-Way, Flossmann Wide Body, Brembo Motorsports Brakes, Drexler LSD, BBS E88 Etc. INSTAGRAM - @Slicer_M |
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04-08-2014, 12:41 PM | #28 |
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04-08-2014, 12:54 PM | #29 |
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Nothing other than it's just harder to remove than when it's wet.
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