A good choice for an aluminum racing jack

[LiM3y]

I have this bad boy...way over spec, weighs a ton but gets the job done. I get a work out moving it around and it provides amusement in the garage at track days as lesser jacks cower in its presence and run to the shadows. It's low profile too.

I bought it for the extra raise height it provides. I combined with 6t stands, again for the extra rise height. The 2-3 inches makes a difference for the full figured performance enthusiast when draining the clutch and removing the underside panels.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5429_200345429

[signes]

Originally Posted by lucid

Has anyone heard of issues with the rachet mechanisms failing?

Haven't heard of any stories like that but I worry, too. One reason why I like the Esco versions. Can always get a higher weight rating to have extra margin for error.

[swamp2]

Originally Posted by lucid

Has anyone heard of issues with the rachet mechanisms failing? My current jack stands have them, and I didn't have any problems with them, but I do get a bit paranoid thinking if they are properly engaged or not. I know the design is such that when the stand experiences load, they engage, and that the teeth are unlikely to shear off and so on, but the primitive part of my brain wants to see a nice solid bar go through a wide stand housing and shaft. I guess then I would worry about stress concentration around the hole. It's just that when I see stands for $25, I wonder if they are designed properly. I know it shouldn't cost much to produce these things once they are designed, but still. I guess I am not making the "too cheap" counter point to the too expensive point, but there seem to be plenty of stuff in between. Anyway, just rambling I guess...

Ha, always the engineer thinking!

-I like the ratchets for convenience (own ratchet style now)
-Sometime there is not quite enough adjustability in them (same would probably be true of the through pin design)

If you run some really quick back of the envelope calculations on the jacks, either design, you will find pretty large safety factors. Probably at least 3, perhaps even 5. I know the feeling though... There is such little room under the car and I question the jack and stands every time I slide myself under.

[lucid]

Originally Posted by swamp2

Ha, always the engineer thinking!

-I like the ratchets for convenience (own ratchet style now)
-Sometime there is not quite enough adjustability in them (same would probably be true of the through pin design)

If you run some really quick back of the envelope calculations on the jacks, either design, you will find pretty large safety factors. Probably at least 3, perhaps even 5. I know the feeling though... There is such little room under the car and I question the jack and stands every time I slide myself under.

Yes, one would think the would employ high safety factors in the design of a structural component such as this one, but I also worry about manufacturing defects when I see them for $20 at Sears, etc. I assume the shafts with teeth are cast. But I guess if a teeth sheers off, another one down the shaft can engage. Anyway, I guess I should just pay up for the peace of mind...

[lucid]

Originally Posted by signes

Can always get a higher weight rating to have extra margin for error.

True. Fortunately, my E30 M3 weighs just over 2500lb, and I almost never work on the Z4M.

[signes]

Lucid, love the new sig pic.

[lucid]

Originally Posted by signes

Lucid, love the new sig pic.

A friend finally took some good pics of the car @NHMS. Higher res below. Now it's Swamp's turn to tell me I'm OT and should start a new thread, and my turn to say sorry. Sorry Swamp, but couldn't help it.

Well, let me at least put in a word about jacks. I'm not happy with the reach of my current jack. That's the main reason I'm going for a larger one. Mine has a lift height of 14 3/4". Also it has one long roller on the front that sucks; it is stuck/fused for good, which is a real problem because the jack won't roll under the lifting arm as it rises and the car can be pulled sideways as a consequence.

[swamp2]

Nice pics. I'm not too uptight on OT posts in general. It is the nature of natural conversation - it drifts.

[lucid]

Agreed.

[swamp2]

I'll keep "drifting". I went to a local BMW meet last week and there was every generation of M3 except the E36. It made me want to realize my dreams of younger days to own the E30 M3. Is the E36 the one you haven't owned?

[lucid]

I haven't owned the E36 M3, but came pretty close to buying one. I haven't owned the E46 M3 either, but I did have a E46 325 (and have the S54 in my current car).

I bought the E30 M3 track car mainly because I also dreamed about owning one when I was a teenager (I think we are about the same age). There are more cost effective and less "needy" alternatives...

Hey, it puts a large grin on my face every minute on the track. I just wish I had more time to work on it myself and develop it (and the inside needs some cleaning/sorting out).

[swamp2]

Ahh. I thought your E46 was an M, did not remember that correctly.

[aus]

So there are no other jack stands with flat tops?
Where do you guys put the jack stands with the curved tops?

[swamp2]

Originally Posted by aus

So there are no other jack stands with flat tops?
Where do you guys put the jack stands with the curved tops?

Yes the curved ones are great for older cars with built in pads (e.g. E36 M3). They suck for our cars. I use a bit of a hack solution with little custom cut wood blocks between my stands (yes curved) and the recatangular "receptacles" on the car body. It is far from ideal. I'd like a flat jack stand and the alumunim block adapters sepcifically made for this.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by lucid

Has anyone heard of issues with the rachet mechanisms failing? My current jack stands have them, and I didn't have any problems with them, but I do get a bit paranoid thinking if they are properly engaged or not. I know the design is such that when the stand experiences load, they engage, and that the teeth are unlikely to shear off and so on, but the primitive part of my brain wants to see a nice solid bar go through a wide stand housing and shaft. I guess then I would worry about stress concentration around the hole. It's just that when I see stands for $25, I wonder if they are designed properly. I know it shouldn't cost much to produce these things once they are designed, but still. I guess I am not making the "too cheap" counter point to the too expensive point, but there seem to be plenty of stuff in between. Anyway, just rambling I guess...

My Hein-Warners are about 30 years old and never a problem with them. they are far easier to adjust than the pin type.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by aus

So there are no other jack stands with flat tops?
Where do you guys put the jack stands with the curved tops?

At the pivot point for the suspension arms - that's a stong and secure place.

[JCtx]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

At the pivot point for the suspension arms - that's a stong and secure place.

I use those points too, but I question if the arms' bushings can take the entire weight of the car if we were to use a pair of those flat top jack stands . With the typical jack stands, most of the weight of the car rests on the arm's mounting points, rather than on the arm itself. Comments welcome.

[aus]

Greg, thanks for the picture.
OT, but are the two arrrows for two drain bolts?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by aus

Greg, thanks for the picture.
OT, but are the two arrrows for two drain bolts?

Yes, this is from my oil change DIY post. Sorry if that was confusing.

[aus]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

Yes, this is from my oil change DIY post. Sorry if that was confusing.

Thanks. I didn't realize it had 2 drain bolts. I'll be looking for your DIY in a few months.

[Subw00er]

FWIW, the HF racing jack is on sale now. Just got their flyer.