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05-10-2018, 01:14 PM | #23 | |
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I changed to the coupe in 2010 and still have it for now, will likely be selling it soon. re the studs, I just wasn't confident that the hubs (rear especially) would be OK drilling them out.
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05-10-2018, 06:29 PM | #24 |
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It seems like I'm late to the party!
I like the concept of fatter studs to increase strength. I do not like: -permanent modification to hubs -permanent modification to bbk hats -removing strength from the hub -using thin walled nuts The external diameter of the nut is still 17mm and as the stud is fatter it means the nuts are pretty thin Ultimately, i have never broken a BW stud. Until I do I have no reason to mess around with this |
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05-10-2018, 07:45 PM | #25 |
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^I agree re the BW studs, they arnt inexpensive but when it comes to safety I dont look to save a few cents.
I have seen other brands snap several times at the track, including some that were just installed.
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05-10-2018, 08:03 PM | #26 | |
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I won't go back from the BW stud. Expensive but they seem to be the only option |
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06-03-2018, 08:59 AM | #27 | |
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06-03-2018, 07:38 PM | #28 |
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FWIW, I've seen wheels loosen on track. I personally lost a trailer wheel b/c I didn't check torque at the track (hadn't messed with the wheels but I had always checked torque before going to and before leaving the track). Once one lug loosens a bit it doesn't take very long for the others to loosen as well.
I checked torque a lot when I raced, usually b/c I was swapping wheels out between practice, quali, and race. Practice on tires that were iffy on tread depth. Quali on great tires, tires you hope to race on. However, weather changes and you might have to change to deeper tread tires or full wets, or the LF might be toast at Big Willow and you need to put on one with more tread. I had 14 wheels and tires...one set of rains and 10 square setup Kosei wheels and race tires. Always torque prior to going out on track, not right after coming in (that's when you check pressures). I've relayed the story before, but my wife was torquing the wheels on the car Big Willow said one didn't feel right. I tried it after checking the torque wrench setting and the stud broke off... Not good.
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06-04-2018, 04:47 PM | #29 | ||
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06-08-2018, 12:47 PM | #30 |
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In don't see the point. You do get more clamping power but the problem is hardware failure?
Sounds like either a product quality control issue or install/maintenance problems. If you under/over torque a 14mm fastener...same thing is going to happen. Snap, wheel comes off.
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06-08-2018, 02:07 PM | #31 | |
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This. Torque specs are often given for a cold (room temperature) bolt/nut.
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06-16-2018, 05:24 AM | #32 |
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Some guys use anti sieze on their studs, and unbeknownst to them you're supposed to lower your torque settings by 30-40%, otherwise you'll exceed the yield point of the stud.
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06-16-2018, 05:30 AM | #33 |
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FYI AFAIK red loctite is designed to be removed at elevated temps, i.e apply heat to the component then the threadlocked component can be removed. This is the only safe method and was outlined in the PDS.
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