Dct issue, bought car yesterday

[503M3]

So i recently traded in my mk7 gti for a higher mileage e92 m3 (105k), only reason i did it is the car seems in really good condition, sounds good, looks good. Even the service history looked really good. On the test drive it felt great, shifted fantastic, even faster and more responsive than my mk7. I drove it an hour home and, on the drive, the dct started doing a weird lurch when moving out of first or reverse like the clutch is dumping itself. I don't see any fluids leaking. all other gear changes are normal, and the car feels great. Engine even looks like it was recently rebuilt. Brand new gaskets etc. Im having a mechanic at my work look at it tomorrow but before I do that I was curious if anyone had any idea what it could be. I couldn't find any threads that really gave me a solid answer. I don't know if its been tuned or if its clutches are going out. but other than moving from a stop in 1st and moving in reverse it feels 100% solid and I'm having so much fun in it. If it's something bad, I may have to go back for my mk7.

[Matthew_M3]

My guess, as I had similar symptoms, is that you may have a trans fluid leak and there isn’t enough fluid/pressure in the system. I’d have him pull the floor pans under the transmission and check for leaks first. I had that issue and was dangerously low on trans fluid at the time. I did a full DCT service including all the filters and gaskets and never had the problem since.

I know someone more knowledgeable will reply but that’s just my .02

[503M3]

Originally Posted by Matthew_M3

My guess, as I had similar symptoms, is that you may have a trans fluid leak and there isn’t enough fluid/pressure in the system. I’d have him pull the floor pans under the transmission and check for leaks first. I had that issue and was dangerously low on trans fluid at the time. I did a full DCT service including all the filters and gaskets and never had the problem since.

I know someone more knowledgeable will reply but that’s just my .02

Thank you, I’ll have him do that. Seems like that might be issue but I don’t see any fluid. I’ll have him look and if it is low I’ll do the service, or I’ll make the dealership I bought it from do it. I did realize tho it only seems to happen w the power button or or in M mode.

[akkando]

This can be normal.... Especially if you have the throttle set to the most sensitive setting ( power button / M mode custom settings, check menu for M mode settings ).

It could be traction control kicking in and so it cuts throttle, then comes back and then freaks out and cuts throttle again. I chose to set my M mode to the least sensitive setting partially because of this. Just hitting a bump while I'm in first gear with most sensitive throttle and the car start bucking. You could turn traction control off to test if TC is a factor.

Also these e9x and f8x dct are famously clunky in first gear. If you're not deliberate with the throttle sometimes it doesn't know if it should be slipping the clutch or not. One tip if you need to go slow is creep mode. You tap the throttle from a stop and it will the engage the clutch and move forward at the slowest speed possible without slipping the clutch. Once it's time to pick up speed put your foot back on throttle and increase vehicle speed to a point it can't possibly be confused on if it should keep clutch engaged or not.

But yeah could just be low trans fluid.


The GTS tune for the trans tends to be smoother. If your car defaults auto mode you already have some version of it. If your car defaults to manual sequential mode then it's stock. I would recommend the GTS tune period.

[Scrippy]

So I just had my dual mass flywheel replaced and while the trans was out I looked at the clutch packs and they were great. This was done around 210,000 miles for me. I’m at 255,000 now and no issues. These DCT’s don’t break easily and do lot have a high fail rate as I’ve seen. Jack the car up on level ground and inspect the trans pan. There may not be a leak present but it may have been filled bellow full. You are to fill until the fluid comes out of the fill hole while at 210 degrees or some shit like that. There are TIS avalible for the exact process. You could just jack the passenger side of car up to get an extra fill but don’t go bonkers. Anything beyond a leak or fluid level and I would seak a DCT knowledgeable shop for sure! I’d check this before dropping it off somewhere unless you have a fat itchy wallet.

[spammysammich]

The “power” button is poorly named. It only changes throttle response. A very aggressive throttle setting is super annoying at low speeds and just driving around town i much prefer a linear feeling throttle. I leave mine in the lowest setting even for spirited driving because of the more linear feel.

This does NOT drive like a standard slushbox auto so if you’re coming from that get used to not being able to creep along without quickly blipping the pedal from a dead stop, then rolling onto the accelerator to begin moving slowly.

[503M3]

I appreciate everyone’s responses. So recently after I responded to the first guy, when I said it only happens in m mode or power mode. The car was doing it in normal manual mode. Car does default to manual mode when I put it in drive. And feels fine for the first 20-30 minutes of driving. After that it doesn’t feel okay. Every stop it like clunks, and it’s very audible. Not the normal shifting clunk going from reverse—->neutral———>drive. It sounds bad. I have been very progressive on the throttle. Even tried the tapping to get the low speed assist working. But something it still fumbles taking off from a stop. It doesn’t do it slowing down. Or downshifting coming to a stop. It’s only when leaving a stop or engaging reserve. I’m just super confused at this point. I was prepared to do 2 things with this car. Bearings and TAs, because as everyone has said the dct is fantastic. And I’d agree if I wasn’t having this issue. I’ll keep everyone posted after I have my mechanic look at it tomorrow. Kinda sucks this is happening. Problem does seem rare hence as to why I can’t find a single other person dealing w it. Literally can’t find any videos of someone replicating my problem.

[spammysammich]

If it is happening when warm you are probably VERY low on fluid. These transmissions are notorious for weeping. Do a search for mechatronics o-ring. Whoever does the next service on the transmission MUST NOT just check the fluid level when it is cold. There is a very specific temperature range they must check the fluid level at to ensure it is filled to the proper level. Checking it cold and topping it off will leave it under filled by almost a liter.

[503M3]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

If it is happening when warm you are probably VERY low on fluid. These transmissions are notorious for weeping. Do a search for mechatronics o-ring. Whoever does the next service on the transmission MUST NOT just check the fluid level when it is cold. There is a very specific temperature range they must check the fluid level at to ensure it is filled to the proper level. Checking it cold and topping it off will leave it under filled by almost a liter.

Sounds good. I’ll have the shop order that and fluid tomorrow if he finds a leak. Hopefully my car can on his alignment rack. We’re in the middle of moving stuff around the shop so only lift we have is the alignment rack

[spammysammich]

I’ve done a full fluid/filter/pan service on my back with quick jacks. It isn’t difficult. Just specific. The only tricky part is not burning yourself on the exhaust while the car is idling.

[503M3]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

I’ve done a full fluid/filter/pan service on my back with quick jacks. It isn’t difficult. Just specific. The only tricky part is not burning yourself on the exhaust while the car is idling.

Is it Mandatory to leave the car idling? Or just easier? Wouldn’t this cause the system to be pressurized?

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by 503M3

Is it Mandatory to leave the car idling? Or just easier? Wouldn’t this cause the system to be pressurized?

Yes. Method outlined in the ISTA service plan. No

[spammysammich]

Search for the DIY on the fluid service. It has all been covered.

[503M3]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Search for the DIY on the fluid service. It has all been covered.

Thank you for all the information It’s Greatly appreciated. I’ll post after it’s looked at tomorrow.


I’m still a tad confused how every other gear can shift fine, downshift fine. And the car drives perfect. I mean for being 12 years old that is. I don’t understand how low fluid would affect moving from a stop but not a shift at redline.

[spammysammich]

It may need to have the adaptations reset but until you know you are at a correct fluid level baseline guessing is all you can do unless you test it with ISTA.

[503M3]

I think I’ve decided I’m going to take the car back to the dealership and get my old car back. They haven’t payed off my existing loan and the new one isn’t finalized until tomorrow. I’ve been up all night doing all the research I can and I honestly don’t want to deal with it. I will be on the hunt for a new e92 m3 soon. Love the car, I just don’t want to deal with someone’s lemon.

[amrazM]

the car probably needs a new trans which is why it ended up at a dealership in the first place. you are doing the best thing 503M3

[503M3]

Trans wasn’t leaking, only found this by the diff. I was able to get a video of what it’s doing from the inside and out but don’t know how to link those. Car game up clean for ecu and tcu codes. Only some seatbelt sensors and some other code that’s like 93ff or something. Taking it bad to the dealership I got it from in an hour. My mechanic even said it doesn’t shift/drive correct. I think it shifts fine. I know these cars shift a little aggressively especially on the 5 bar setting. But the car literally dumps the clutch from a stop. Super stumped on this one. Besides the cv axle leaking the rest of the car looks in great condition for the mileage. Obviously some road gunk but no rust or any obvious leaks. Bottom of the transmission was squeaky clean, only a little bit of residue but it wasn’t thick or looked fresh.

[503M3]

They won’t give me my gti back unless I pay a 20% restocking fee on the bmw ($4700), talked with the owner for over an hour and half. Just to drive an hour and half home in a loaner. He did offer to fix the transmission and put a 1 year warranty on the engine and transmission. But he didn’t put it in writing and left before I could even ask. So how I’m stuck w a loaner. Can’t get my original car back and back out of the deal. And I don’t even have the car I payed for. So who knows what’s going to happen. I feel like I got snaked twice. Had the m3 3 days, the car shakes pretty up front at anything above 75mph, it has a whine/squeal in the engine back. And the transmission is fucked.


I fucked myself basically

[kolosy]

That sounds awful. May be time to lawyer up, or at least threaten to. https://psychoautos.com/oregon-state...20to%20do%20so.

[503M3]

Originally Posted by kolosy

That sounds awful. May be time to lawyer up, or at least threaten to. https://psychoautos.com/oregon-state...0to%20do%20so.

Unfortunely, I was told that, that is actually false. By both the dealer and my mother. I don’t know why she’s under that impression but I’ve tried. I don’t really have money to lawyer up so I’m just screwed.

[tbuck]

Just because there is no sign of a leak does not mean the fluid level is correct. DCT's are very susceptible to fluid levels and are a pain to fill to proper level. Mine did much the same with only a pint or so low. Topped it of correctly and work perfect. GL