DIY: Spark Plug Change - 2008 E92 M3

[W///]

Question: Is there a trick to engage the passenger coil at the very back? There's no much room to maneuver and I just can't get it to clip in. Or do I just need to quit being a sissy?

My DIY was pretty disastrous. Driver side went smoothly enough, but I had all sorts of issue with the back 2 on the passenger side. After dropping tools into engine bay (which I'll have to fish out after this), getting the socket stuck to the spark plug while taking it off and having not room to fit a ratchet in there, I decided to pull the entire plenum off. Gave me much more room. I was just scared to use all sorts of extensions and u-joints and torquing the spark plugs at an angle as they were on there pretty good (a little too tight for my taste, but that was the previous owner).

I'm probably past 3-4 hours at this point, just working on it a little at a time

[TX]

W///,
I assume you mean remove the back coil pack or installing it? I ended up with a nasty bruise on the palm of my hand for a week from pushing that coil pack back in. The passenger firewall side coil pack is a real bugger to get out. I ended up snapping the top off the coil pack because it would not budge and there was no way to get vertical pull on it. I was using a long screwdriver and a pry block to move it, but snapped off the top. At that point my only option was to use a piece of CAT5 network cable wrapped under the connector and around the coil pack. Then that was threaded up over some sort of chassis stiffener bar and pulled up using that for leverage. Sockets and extensions should be taped together with electrical tape to prevent them from dropping off inside the engine. I reinstalled a non broken coil pack in the rear spot, I never want to see that one again for another 37K miles. I put the broken one in the front where it would be easy to replace once my new one arrived from the shop.
Make sure to turn the new plugs backwards by hand a few turns before threading them in. You will feel a click when the threads align. This will greatly help reduce the risk of cross threading. Never use any driver until you have them seated by hand first. I was able to almost bottom them out by hand which assured me the threads were good.
When using a universal make sure to support the vertical extension that is inside the head with a hand because the universal joint will cause the leverage to want to twist off sideways and can snap a plug off or do other damage. Torqueing is not recommended with any setup like that where the wrench is not overtop the socket. I did mine by feel. Down till snug then 1/4 turn more. plug box says snug plus 1/2 turn more, but I didn't like the feel past 1/4 turn so I stuck with that. Anyway with this done you'll feel much better doing it yourself knowing it was done right and you'll save yourself several hundred dollars in the end even if you drink some very expensive beer while you do the work. It does take quite a selection of various length extensions. I used an extra long plug socket that ended up working perfectly with a short extension taped to it. I was able to drop that down inside the engine and the top of the extension would stick up an inch or so from the engine so it was easy to attach to at that point. Its required for the rear two where you cant lower the entire rig in at the same time with a plug attached. Drop the socket and first extension, then attach to it later. Here's the socket:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheers.

[W///]

Originally Posted by TX

W///,
The passenger firewall side coil pack is a real bugger to get out. I ended up snapping the top off the coil pack because it would not budge and there was no way to get vertical pull on it. I was using a long screwdriver and a pry block to move it, but snapped off the top. At that point my only option was to use a piece of CAT5 network cable wrapped under the connector and around the coil pack. Then that was threaded up over some sort of chassis stiffener bar and pulled up using that for leverage. Sockets and extensions should be taped together with electrical tape to prevent them from dropping off inside the engine. I reinstalled a non broken coil pack in the rear spot, I never want to see that one again for another 37K miles. I put the broken one in the front where it would be easy to replace once my new one arrived from the shop.
Make sure to turn the new plugs backwards by hand a few turns before threading them in. You will feel a click when the threads align. This will greatly help reduce the risk of cross threading. Never use any driver until you have them seated by hand first. I was able to almost bottom them out by hand which assured me the threads were good.
When using a universal make sure to support the vertical extension that is inside the head with a hand because the universal joint will cause the leverage to want to twist off sideways and can snap a plug off or do other damage. Torqueing is not recommended with any setup like that where the wrench is not overtop the socket. I did mine by feel. Down till snug then 1/4 turn more. plug box says snug plus 1/2 turn more, but I didn't like the feel past 1/4 turn so I stuck with that. Anyway with this done you'll feel much better doing it yourself knowing it was done right and you'll save yourself several hundred dollars in the end even if you drink some very expensive beer while you do the work. It does take quite a selection of various length extensions. I used an extra long plug socket that ended up working perfectly with a short extension taped to it. I was able to drop that down inside the engine and the top of the extension would stick up an inch or so from the engine so it was easy to attach to at that point. Its required for the rear two where you cant lower the entire rig in at the same time with a plug attached. Drop the socket and first extension, then attach to it later. Here's the socket:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheers.

Hey, thanks for your answer. FYI, I was asking how to clip the coil back in. All the plugs have been changed already, I just can't get the last passenger coil to click. Did every one just do it by hand?

I know there's 2 DIY's for this job, but I started off not taking the intake plenum off and struggled big time with the passenger side. My extensions were either too long or too short. With the plenum off, I was able to use a shorter extension. With the intake on, the plenum would have been in the way for the angle I used.

After I install that last coil, I'll put the plenum back on, put car on jackstands, take underbody panel off and recover my tools

[TX]

re-installed by hand. Pushed down with palm of hand till they were fully seated. Mine didn't click, they just make a firm suction sounding seal when all the way down. I then ran a straight edge across all 4 to makes sure they were seated the same amount. Sorry I misunderstood your question. You should not see any gap under the sealing ring of the coil pack when seated.

[W///]

Originally Posted by TX

re-installed by hand. Pushed down with palm of hand till they were fully seated. Mine didn't click, they just make a firm suction sounding seal when all the way down. I then ran a straight edge across all 4 to makes sure they were seated the same amount. Sorry I misunderstood your question. You should not see any gap under the sealing ring of the coil pack when seated.

Yea I can get it to seat with some suction, but definitely can't get it to "click" like the other 7. Good idea with the straight edge. This DYI definitely kicked my ass. I got frustrated a couple of times and just left it as is, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel... just in time for snow. Dang! Thanks for the tip, I'll try it out tomorrow.

[TX]

Originally Posted by W///

Yea I can get it to seat with some suction, but definitely can't get it to "click" like the other 7. Good idea with the straight edge. This DYI definitely kicked my ass. I got frustrated a couple of times and just left it as is, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel... just in time for snow. Dang! Thanks for the tip, I'll try it out tomorrow.

make sure you have the rotation right. The back one on the drivers side is not aligned like the other 3 on that side, but I believe the 4 on the passenger side are all aligned the same. You'll notice a notch out on the valve cover where the connector should sit when fully down. Check those out, It'll help you align it.
They do make a nice thunk sound when they are seated.

[W///]

Originally Posted by TX

make sure you have the rotation right. The back one on the drivers side is not aligned like the other 3 on that side, but I believe the 4 on the passenger side are all aligned the same. You'll notice a notch out on the valve cover where the connector should sit when fully down. Check those out, It'll help you align it.
They do make a nice thunk sound when they are seated.

Correct. The driver side rear points kinda upwards, while the other 7 are pointed downwards diagonally.

P.S you were absolutely right about wearing gloves. Half way through the DIY, I dug up my Mechanix gloves because my knuckles were getting torn up.

[e92zero]

I had the same issue with both the number 4 and number 8. I don't think I am weak but for the life of me, I couldn't get the 4 and the 8 coil to click pushing them in with my hand. I think what happens is when you push with your hand, because they are all the way back, you push them with an angle and it's impossible to get them in. What I end up doing is using a long pry bar and position one end on top of the coil with some padding so it doesn't damage the coil top and the other end elevated with some wooden block. Then I push down on the bar and the coil clicked right in I wouldn't believe it. You might want to give it a try. ymmv and I am not responsible if you damage the coil. Here is an illustration of what I am talking about.

[W///]

Originally Posted by e92zero

I had the same issue with both the number 4 and number 8. I don't think I am weak but for the life of me, I couldn't get the 4 and the 8 coil to click pushing them in with my hand. I think what happens is when you push with your hand, because they are all the way back, you push them with an angle and it's impossible to get them in. What I end up doing is using a long pry bar and position one end on top of the coil with some padding so it doesn't damage the coil top and the other end elevated with some wooden block. Then I push down on the bar and the coil clicked right in I wouldn't believe it. You might want to give it a try. ymmv and I am not responsible if you damage the coil. Here is an illustration of what I am talking about.

I got 4 to click by hand, but that's only because I had the plenum off and had to use the whole weight of my body. With 8, the angle is just so awkward. So if I'm reading right, put a block of wood so it rests against strut towers, and then use a crowbar. I think that should probably work.

[e92zero]

Oh no, the block of wood is on the engine around the front (cylinder 1 or 5). Don't 'pry' on the bar, just push down on it. At least that's what I did. I think any method that can ensure a 'straight' push on the coil should do the trick.

[TX]

it took my full body weight and then bouncing up and down with more weight to get the rears to seat. It's just hard to get the leverage right. As a result I ended up with very bad bruises on the palm of my hands for a week.

[e92zero]

^That's exactly what I did but I was still not able to pop them in. After like 45 minutes, i gave up and went to grab a long bar and did it the way I mentioned above. 10 seconds to setup/position the bar, 1 push and the coil clicked in just like the others. I didn't believe it at first and pulled the coil back out and popped it again to double check. Good luck.

[W///]

Originally Posted by TX

it took my full body weight and then bouncing up and down with more weight to get the rears to seat. It's just hard to get the leverage right. As a result I ended up with very bad bruises on the palm of my hands for a week.

Took 5 seconds for me to clip it in. This method will only work if you took the plenum off (which I'm going to do every time from now on).

For the passenger rear coil.
Insert crow bar towards strut tower, with a rag on the end of it. Hold the other side of the crow bar and push it down, the coil will be a little past the middle. Clicked in with almost no effort. Forget doing it by hand.

If I were to do it again, I'd definitely do my own DIY. I don't know why I struggled so much on this one!

[yellow munson]

first I tried extra long screw driver.. then I switch to long pry bar as it mentioned. it worked like majic

Originally Posted by W///

Took 5 seconds for me to clip it in. This method will only work if you took the plenum off (which I'm going to do every time from now on).

For the passenger rear coil.
Insert crow bar towards strut tower, with a rag on the end of it. Hold the other side of the crow bar and push it down, the coil will be a little past the middle. Clicked in with almost no effort. Forget doing it by hand.

If I were to do it again, I'd definitely do my own DIY. I don't know why I struggled so much on this one!

[VictorH]

Originally Posted by yellow munson

first I tried extra long screw driver.. then I switch to long pry bar as it mentioned. it worked like majic

Same for me, long pry bar and good push on the shaft.

[e92zero]

Originally Posted by W///

Took 5 seconds for me to clip it in. This method will only work if you took the plenum off (which I'm going to do every time from now on).

For the passenger rear coil.
Insert crow bar towards strut tower, with a rag on the end of it. Hold the other side of the crow bar and push it down, the coil will be a little past the middle. Clicked in with almost no effort. Forget doing it by hand.

If I were to do it again, I'd definitely do my own DIY. I don't know why I struggled so much on this one!

I will be due for the spark plug change again in 2k miles. I will take picture of how I setup/position the bar. There is no need to take off the plenum. Just line up the bar and give the bar a good push and the coil will click right in.

[W///]

Originally Posted by e92zero

I will be due for the spark plug change again in 2k miles. I will take picture of how I setup/position the bar. There is no need to take off the plenum. Just line up the bar and give the bar a good push and the coil will click right in.

At that point, it was just easier for me, especially to get to the rear passenger spark plug. I didn't have the right combination of extensions and what not, so when I tried it the "regular" way, I was torquing it at an angle which I didn't like. With the plenum off, I was able to get the spark plug out with what I had in no time at all. I'd still like to see your method though for future reference.

[ersin]

This thread is way too long. Is TxStig still selling his tool that was mentioned back on page 4?


Cheers.

[TX]

Originally Posted by ersin

This thread is way too long. Is TxStig still selling his tool that was mentioned back on page 4?


Cheers.

He can't sell on the forum or through the forum due to forum rules. Maybe someone on here will rent you one that they have for a small fee.

[W///]

Originally Posted by ersin

This thread is way too long. Is TxStig still selling his tool that was mentioned back on page 4?


Cheers.

You can get away without using one. Just use a fishbone or a screw driver. Or you can wrap a chord around the head of the coils

[ersin]

Originally Posted by W///

You can get away without using one. Just use a fishbone or a screw driver. Or you can wrap a chord around the head of the coils

I don't want to break the coils as some have done doing it this way. I'd like to get the BMW tool, but the "less than" BMW tools look good and probably less potential of breaking the coils than a screw driver or chord. If I don't get one I'll do what I need to, but it would be nice to have a cheap tool for this.

BTW, the dealership wants over $700 to change the plugs.


Cheers.

[W///]

Originally Posted by ersin

I don't want to break the coils as some have done doing it this way. I'd like to get the BMW tool, but the "less than" BMW tools look good and probably less potential of breaking the coils than a screw driver or chord. If I don't get one I'll do what I need to, but it would be nice to have a cheap tool for this.

BTW, the dealership wants over $700 to change the plugs.


Cheers.

So ridiculous. Granted it took me forever to do because I did little by little. Personally, I'd be pretty comfortable with using a big screw driver and just be careful. You can't even use the tool in the back 2 anyway. If you can't find a tool, just start prying little by little in each direction, and once it loses suction, it'll pop out.