Front Uprights update

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

To all Strom Upright track cars. Have you struggle to gain grip, what setting are you using and what is the handling dynamics.

Alignment?
Front Camber: -3.2 (maxed out) need to maybe change out camber plate.
Front Toe: 0
Front Spring Rate: 600lbs

My car Understeers a lot, totally plows the corner.
any one have a different result?

please share.

What's the tire set up?

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

What's the tire set up?

grip was better on 295/30/18 Nankang Ar1, but most recent on Pirelli DH 285/645/18 and can't get grip.

spoke with Brett Strom today and he thinks the DH is my problem, I dont have the right setting for it and tire is rolling over. Despite of understeering he says I need more front bar or increase my spring rates.

[Exclusivs]

Subd'

[derbo]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

Finally got around to testing the uprights and getting an impression. I went out to Laguna Seca where previously my best lap was 1:39.8. I started the with the same shock damping as prior and I struggle with rear grip. The car felt it had less rear grip. Maybe the front was just hooking up more. Right in the morning I ran 1:39.2.
Through out the track day I played with shock damping to tune out some of the oversteer. I couldn't add more rear camber which was suggested by Strom. But I got the car to feel a little more hooked in the rear but didn't result in a faster lap. I got consistent 1:39~ but 1:39.2 was my best. I ran all stock component and removed my SPL bump steer kit.
My overall goal with the upright wasn't lap time but better tire wear. This was achieved well. The overall tire wear was improved. Laguna is hard on tires, destroys the outer shoulder. I didn't have any damage to the shoulder other than normal wear. At this rate I think I'll be able to save one tires set per year. If so It will pay off the upright cost in 4 years. Overall worth it, in my opinion.

slcook54 this is what you should look into in the future since you were looking into outer shoulder wearing too.

[e36clubracer]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

grip was better on 295/30/18 Nankang Ar1, but most recent on Pirelli DH 285/645/18 and can't get grip.

spoke with Brett Strom today and he thinks the DH is my problem, I dont have the right setting for it and tire is rolling over. Despite of understeering he says I need more front bar or increase my spring rates.

More spring for sure assuming your dampers can handle it. You’ll probably end up somewhere around 800-900#s.

[Lienrocs]

What suspension are you on and what are the current rates? What kind of aero are you running? Have you tried adjusting the bars, assuming you have adjustment there? Is it your first time running slicks and you need to dial in the tire pressures? I've never ran slicks so I know if struggle with that big time. There are a lot of variables that could contribute. It could also be that the uprights aren't right for your set up so something has to change. I know strom developed the uprights so I would pick their brains a bit more and keep us posted with the findings!

[911r]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

To all Strom Upright track cars. Have you struggle to gain grip, what setting are you using and what is the handling dynamics.

Alignment?
Front Camber: -3.2 (maxed out) need to maybe change out camber plate.
Front Toe: 0
Front Spring Rate: 600lbs

My car Understeers a lot, totally plows the corner.
any one have a different result?

please share.

-3.2 isn't enough for scrubs/slicks in my opinion. What camber plates do you have?

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

What suspension are you on and what are the current rates? What kind of aero are you running? Have you tried adjusting the bars, assuming you have adjustment there? Is it your first time running slicks and you need to dial in the tire pressures? I've never ran slicks so I know if struggle with that big time. There are a lot of variables that could contribute. It could also be that the uprights aren't right for your set up so something has to change. I know strom developed the uprights so I would pick their brains a bit more and keep us posted with the findings!

Originally Posted by 911r

-3.2 isn't enough for scrubs/slicks in my opinion. What camber plates do you have?

I'm on Ohlins RaceLine from PSI TTX36.
GT4 factory front Lip with canards
9lives racing 65" rear wing
sway bar was at the soft setting (cause understeer behavior)
dialed pressure with tire pyrometer and pressure gauge
spoke with Strom and main thing they request is for spring change
front and rear 1000lbs front and 1200+ rear but they said good luck trying to find higher than 1200. suggested to convert to true rear coilover
--
Ground control race plates.

[Lienrocs]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

I'm on Ohlins RaceLine from PSI TTX36.
GT4 factory front Lip with canards
9lives racing 65" rear wing
sway bar was at the soft setting (cause understeer behavior)
dialed pressure with tire pyrometer and pressure gauge
spoke with Strom and main thing they request is for spring change
front and rear 1000lbs front and 1200+ rear but they said good luck trying to find higher than 1200. suggested to convert to true rear coilover
--
Ground control race plates.

Gotcha. Make sense.

I have a set of 1300 2.5 ID springs floating around if you wanna give them a go. I can't recall the length. Id have to dig them up.

[911r]

@tlrid3r I have some 1300-1500lb (KW) springs you could test as well, but you would need to convert to true rear. They're too short to run divorced…spec some MCS' and sell the TTX to me

I managed -3.8 out of Vorshlags. Odd GC race won't go further.

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by Lienrocs

Gotcha. Make sense.

I have a set of 1300 2.5 ID springs floating around if you wanna give them a go. I can't recall the length. Id have to dig them up.

Let me decide. Cause I'll have to change the front set as well.

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by 911r

@tlrid3r I have some 1300-1500lb (KW) springs you could test as well, but you would need to convert to true rear. They're too short to run divorced…spec some MCS' and sell the TTX to me

I managed -3.8 out of Vorshlags. Odd GC race won't go further.

They recommend something like 800 on true rear coilover. My TTx can be ran as true rear coilover with just spring change. They are setup for it.

[slcook54]

When you at Laguna again? I'm doing 9/22

[e36clubracer]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

I'm on Ohlins RaceLine from PSI TTX36.
GT4 factory front Lip with canards
9lives racing 65" rear wing
sway bar was at the soft setting (cause understeer behavior)
dialed pressure with tire pyrometer and pressure gauge
spoke with Strom and main thing they request is for spring change
front and rear 1000lbs front and 1200+ rear but they said good luck trying to find higher than 1200. suggested to convert to true rear coilover
--
Ground control race plates.

You’ll likely have to have your PSI TTXs revalved to get the rates you’re looking for. Or you maybe be able to but you’ll be at the end of your range.

[tlrid3r]

Yeah simply put. I'm realizing scrubs was a bad idea. Mainly I'm not a good enough driver nor have a car capable of utilizing the benefits.
Only reason I did scrubs was because mid pandemic, tires were unavailable.

I'll report back with street tires if I get any progress.

[tlrid3r]

One more question. What ride height are Strom upright users running.

From rim bottom lip to fender.
Front and back would be helpful

Thanks in advance

[dmitriyo]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

One more question. What ride height are Strom upright users running.

From rim bottom lip to fender.
Front and back would be helpful

Thanks in advance

Ask Brett that - there was a specific window with 18" that it was all developed for - a common setup for track cars, lowered some.

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by dmitriyo

Ask Brett that - there was a specific window with 18" that it was all developed for - a common setup for track cars, lowered some.

I did, I even called a few times. I was able to speak with Brett and he shared a lot of info but he didn't have the height suggestion measurement handy, so he was supposed to get back to me, I'm still waiting. Called again this week but he is off.
I found Brett suggestion online here on the forums he said "uprights are recommended for cars that are lowered by at least an inch (25mm)" post #4 on this thread.
I assume this is from factory height, I'm right there with the recommendation. 26mm lower from what I could find online (610-600mm from bottom of rim lip to fender). It's been so long I had my car I don't have any stock height measurements saved.

[///Mobbin]

Curious if anyone else has had luck dialing everything in with the Strom uprights? With my new Ohlins TTX-TS suspension setup (full thread coming on it) I have set my ride height way lower than I have done in the past and bump steer is pretty bad on the stock front arms. I'm now considering either Strom Uprights or SPL tie rods and lower control arms, already have the GAS monoballs and pretty happy with those but not adjustable. All of my arms are new so hate to ditch them so quick but the bump steer is pretty bad.

I did a corner balance after installing and driver is measuring 575mm, passenger 570mm, both bottom of rim lip to fender. Will likely try this on track since already corner balanced and aligned but looking for a better solution long term, thoughts appreciated!

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

Curious if anyone else has had luck dialing everything in with the Strom uprights? With my new Ohlins TTX-TS suspension setup (full thread coming on it) I have set my ride height way lower than I have done in the past and bump steer is pretty bad on the stock front arms. I'm now considering either Strom Uprights or SPL tie rods and lower control arms, already have the GAS monoballs and pretty happy with those but not adjustable. All of my arms are new so hate to ditch them so quick but the bump steer is pretty bad.

I did a corner balance after installing and driver is measuring 575mm, passenger 570mm, both bottom of rim lip to fender. Will likely try this on track since already corner balanced and aligned but looking for a better solution long term, thoughts appreciated!

For bumpsteer you'd really just need the SPL tie rods as they are the only component that would change bump steer. The lower arms would contribute to roll center correction but shouldn't impact bump steer at all.

[slcook54]

Any general updates on these from anyone?

I picked my car up from TCD yesterday and inquired about running 295 square and Joe mentioned Strom and it reminded of this thread.

I'd like to run 295/30 square on my current suspension (Ohlins Dedicated Track) and not really looking to mess with removing the helper spring. Wondering if this would help in addition to the other advantages.

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by slcook54

Any general updates on these from anyone?

I picked my car up from TCD yesterday and inquired about running 295 square and Joe mentioned Strom and it reminded of this thread.

I'd like to run 295/30 square on my current suspension (Ohlins Dedicated Track) and not really looking to mess with removing the helper spring. Wondering if this would help in addition to the other advantages.

They provide 5mm more clearance at the strut and that's all they do to help with wheel fitment.