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      05-11-2013, 03:56 PM   #23
luiscarlos59
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Btw i have my previous idle valve which I saw on some thread of people repairing it..
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      05-11-2013, 04:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luiscarlos59 View Post
Welcome to the M spending spree!! I just replaced the valve and cost me including labor aprox 1,200k usd.

2 days later another christmas light came on, the engine light and now the problem is the secondary air pump ("emissions air pump") ...which is quoted around 500 usd.
Im out of warranty so I have to pay everything but im so dissapointed with the car i want to sell it.

I have an aftermarket warranty and had ICV replaced 4 months ago, fully covered under my aftermarket warranty (not through BMW). I paid $3,000 for 4 years of aftermarket warranty, covers full bumper to bumper and electronics and only uses OEM parts. best money i have spent on this car yet!
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      05-12-2013, 01:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metro44m3 View Post
I have an aftermarket warranty and had ICV replaced 4 months ago, fully covered under my aftermarket warranty (not through BMW). I paid $3,000 for 4 years of aftermarket warranty, covers full bumper to bumper and electronics and only uses OEM parts. best money i have spent on this car yet!
The best investment you could have done when you buy an M3.. I have been owner for 6 months and have already spent $400usd for oil change , $1.2k usd for idle valve and (maybe) $450 for the emissions control pump. All this happening at year 4 and 35k kms of use. And in around 6 months replacing the 4 tires at around $1.3k. usd.

So buying a used '09 M3 without warranty in a 2 yr ownership would cost me around $3.5k usd just in repairs.
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      05-12-2013, 02:15 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luiscarlos59 View Post
The best investment you could have done when you buy an M3.. I have been owner for 6 months and have already spent $400usd for oil change , $1.2k usd for idle valve and (maybe) $450 for the emissions control pump. All this happening at year 4 and 35k kms of use. And in around 6 months replacing the 4 tires at around $1.3k. usd.

So buying a used '09 M3 without warranty in a 2 yr ownership would cost me around $3.5k usd just in repairs.
Correct me if I'm wrong but are you including the replacement of tyres in the $3.5K of 'repairs' or did I miss something? If so how is that relevant to the warranty?
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      05-12-2013, 03:41 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by jonasaurus View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong but are you including the replacement of tyres in the $3.5K of 'repairs' or did I miss something? If so how is that relevant to the warranty?
Tires and oil as well as other fluids and wearable parts are not covered (I.e. brakes) but all engine components, drivetrain, transmission and electrical parts are fully covered under this warranty.
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      05-12-2013, 07:50 PM   #28
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Question: is this part being replaced with an updated part or the same one that failed?
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      05-12-2013, 10:01 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Space Ghost
Question: is this part being replaced with an updated part or the same one that failed?
Same one. E60 M5 guys are looking for an upgraded gear solution... From nylon/plastic to brass/aluminum.
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      05-12-2013, 10:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luiscarlos59 View Post
The best investment you could have done when you buy an M3.. I have been owner for 6 months and have already spent $400usd for oil change , $1.2k usd for idle valve and (maybe) $450 for the emissions control pump. All this happening at year 4 and 35k kms of use. And in around 6 months replacing the 4 tires at around $1.3k. usd.

So buying a used '09 M3 without warranty in a 2 yr ownership would cost me around $3.5k usd just in repairs.
I'm sorry what? A $400 oil change?
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      05-13-2013, 09:40 AM   #31
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I've had this same thing happen on my 08, but never on my 09.
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      05-13-2013, 09:50 AM   #32
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$400 for a ICV? wow.

When my ICV broke on my old Evo 8, i think it was like $100 for the part, and I had an indy pop it in for me during a oil and diff fluid change, they charged me for an extra half hour. Just saying, wow, high costs indeed for the M3.
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      05-13-2013, 10:09 AM   #33
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also, how do you properly diagnose a throttle actuator issue vs a ICV issue? I've observed ICV issues before with idle dropping and difficulty holding idle, but it appears the symptons are the same for a throttle actuator issue.
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      05-13-2013, 10:12 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBB View Post
**Update**

Shop couldn't find a problem with the car. On Monday morning I started the car up to take it in....started in limp mode. I stopped about half way to the shop, killed the ignition, started it back up and all appeared well....no faults thrown, idle was fine. Shop had the car in the back by Monday afternoon and did not pull ANY of the same codes I did. In fact, they pulled nothing (or some low occurrence, unrelated throttle actuator faults) which is very strange. I'm 100% certain I did not clear the fault codes.

Manager wanted to keep it overnight to see how it behaved on a true cold start, called me Tuesday and said it started just fine. They took it out for a couple of test drives and said everything was running great. Yesterday when I picked it up it started right up and was running well on the 60 mile trip back home.

However, this morning when I started it up before work the crank was extremely long....longest it's ever been. No codes thrown, idle was fine and it pulled strong, though. Not really sure what to think here....I still believe the ICV is on it's way out. I suppose it could be battery related? It's a 2008 and on the original battery. Think I'll hook it up to my trickle charger overnight to rule that out.
ICV issues shouldn't cause a long crank right? Generally, car should fire up with no issues, but then idle rpms would below normal range.
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      05-13-2013, 10:35 AM   #35
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My 09 had a bad battery recently. Longish cranks at times, time and certain settings not storing properly, etc.
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      05-13-2013, 11:41 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
ICV issues shouldn't cause a long crank right? Generally, car should fire up with no issues, but then idle rpms would below normal range.
I was under the impression that they could cause a long crank. The car has been fine since I picked it up last Wednesday. Cold starts in the morning have consistently been very long, however, much longer than usual. I've ruled out the battery, so I'm not sure what the deal is as it wasn't doing this before I left for vacation. It hasn't thrown faults again, though, so I'm not going to worry about it until it does.

I suppose it could also be tune related. The car only started exhibiting this type of behavior after I loaded on the new v2 tune.
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      05-13-2013, 11:51 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
also, how do you properly diagnose a throttle actuator issue vs a ICV issue? I've observed ICV issues before with idle dropping and difficulty holding idle, but it appears the symptons are the same for a throttle actuator issue.
The only way to really know is pull the codes. First one on my list was:
1) 2B0D Idling speed control valve monitor bank 1

I didn't get any TA faults. I had a TA go last summer and the car would randomly start up in limp mode. Other than that there were no other symptoms. It still drove fine and I had no problems holding an idle. The limp mode start ups just became more and more frequent.
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      05-13-2013, 12:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBB View Post
I was under the impression that they could cause a long crank. The car has been fine since I picked it up last Wednesday. Cold starts in the morning have consistently been very long, however, much longer than usual. I've ruled out the battery, so I'm not sure what the deal is as it wasn't doing this before I left for vacation. It hasn't thrown faults again, though, so I'm not going to worry about it until it does.

I suppose it could also be tune related. The car only started exhibiting this type of behavior after I loaded on the new v2 tune.
hmmm, good to know.
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      02-25-2014, 08:39 PM   #39
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Bumping this thread as I am having a similar issue. Just upload my new ESS tune and immediately got the same warnings for Bank 1 and went into limp mode. Cleared the code once and it stayed off, but came back when I started the car this evening. I haven't had a chance to drive it, but start it up once a week or so.

Hopefully these are just some sporadic codes, but I can't help to think that it wasn't somewhat related to the tune. Mine is also an 08, but with 34k miles.

Is your ICV still running strong OP?
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      03-03-2014, 01:19 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gfunk720 View Post
Bumping this thread as I am having a similar issue. Just upload my new ESS tune and immediately got the same warnings for Bank 1 and went into limp mode. Cleared the code once and it stayed off, but came back when I started the car this evening. I haven't had a chance to drive it, but start it up once a week or so.

Hopefully these are just some sporadic codes, but I can't help to think that it wasn't somewhat related to the tune. Mine is also an 08, but with 34k miles.

Is your ICV still running strong OP?
I couldn't tell you. Sold the car. My ICV did eventually go out about a month after I posted this thread. Bought the part and replaced it myself....pretty easy DIY. About 3 weeks later my second throttle actuator went out and within a week of that I started having issues with the differential. Took it in and had it checked out....bad pinion bearing....needed a new diff. It was at that point I sold it. It was a great car when it was running right, I just had some extremely bad luck with it and got tired of pissing my money away on repairs that IMO were outrageous for a 30K mile car.
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      03-03-2014, 05:50 PM   #41
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Wow.. Diff going at 30k?

That's really premature!

ICV, throttle actuators, fuel pressure sensor, and oxygen sensors are par for the course.
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      03-04-2014, 08:19 AM   #42
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Quote:
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Wow.. Diff going at 30k?

That's really premature!

ICV, throttle actuators, fuel pressure sensor, and oxygen sensors are par for the course.
Yes, extremely premature. I didn't track the car either. If you search around there are a few isolated instances of them going early like this. Another guy on this forum, xfactor, had the same thing happen to his at around the same mileage.

It started as a whine from the rear of the car in higher gears (4,5,6) in certain RPM ranges and was progressively getting louder and more prevalent. The car was certainly driveable, but it was something that would need to be fixed sooner rather than later.
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      01-11-2018, 03:48 PM   #43
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Reviving this thread hoping some have answers, 2 cold starts 1 week apart and went into limp mode immediately.
Pulled the code U0107 "Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator 'A' Control Module". Drive abit down the road and restart it and its fine.
No odd symptoms other than a very slight rpm decrease when i press on the brakes at a stop light or just idling.
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      06-27-2018, 08:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_TYLER View Post
Reviving this thread hoping some have answers, 2 cold starts 1 week apart and went into limp mode immediately.
Pulled the code U0107 "Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator 'A' Control Module". Drive abit down the road and restart it and its fine.
No odd symptoms other than a very slight rpm decrease when i press on the brakes at a stop light or just idling.
You ever resolve it? I’m having a similar issue with the coldstarts
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