Dyno too rich VT2-625 .

[Weyne Masters]

Originally Posted by Sered

Then the other tuners are stupid and running their mouth about a platform they know nothing about. Tell them to stick with what they know.

Your oil temperature is NOT your intake temperature. IATs are your intake temperature after being cooled by the intercooler. The fact the 'tuners' don't know this speaks volumes about their supposed expertise. Your IATs were probably around 125degF or higher. You're not going to reach peak power unless you're around 100degF.

How can i get more WHP under that conditions?

[Weyne Masters]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Can you name the other tuner?

There is a Local Tunner,I'm in Brazil.

[regular guy]

Originally Posted by Weyne Masters

There is a Local Tunner,I'm in Brazil.

Like Sered said, you probably shouldn't trust the guy or let him touch your car. I don't want you to be the next guy who calls me and asks me to help rebuild your engine.

[Weyne Masters]

Originally Posted by regular guy

Like Sered said, you probably shouldn't trust the guy or let him touch your car. I don't want you to be the next guy who calls me and asks me to help rebuild your engine.

I agree with you,that's reason I be been chatting with Romman, and I won't do nothing without ESS AGREEMENT, I mean,If the ESS team believe we can leaner we going to,if not I won't change the AFR TARGET.
However I've stilling want to IMPROVE THE WHP.
So My question is HOW REDUCE THE IAT?

[8k3]

Originally Posted by Sered

AFR isn't going to yield much power.

Your gains will come from ignition timing. Those dynos you see on that website are usually done in lower temps (under 75degF ambient). This is at least 20degF cooler temps ambient and probably 30-40degF cooler IATs. The IATs are one of the major factors the DME uses to calculate how much ignition timing to pull.

I reinterate, 520whp in 95degF heat (which means your IATs were probably around 125degF) is a good run.

Most VT2-625 kits dyno around 520-550whp in 'normal' weather. I'd chat with ESS first about what they think as this isn't some japanese car from 1990 that you can just lean out and expect good gains. You're not going to get 80whp on top of 520whp without a major boost increase and better ignition timing. It will NOT happen.

x2. A small change in AFR is not going to give you 60+ hp. Timing will but you can't run more timing when the DME won't allow it, HEAT is your enemy. If the conditions are poor, your IATs are high, timing will be pulled. 520 is good for high temps. Put it this way, I made only 511hp in 107F weather once (before I had headers, etc) but I was making much more. Meth kit may reduce your IAT but as I already pointed out it's not easy to setup properly.

Edit:
I see that Sered, RG, and I basically told you the same thing over and over. I think it's pretty obvious but yet you ask the same questions in multiple threads.

[Weyne Masters]

Originally Posted by 8k3

x2. A small change in AFR is not going to give you 60+ hp. Timing will but you can't run more timing when the DME won't allow it, HEAT is your enemy. If the conditions are poor, your IATs are high, timing will be pulled. 520 is good for high temps. Put it this way, I made only 511hp in 107F weather once (before I had headers, etc) but I was making much more. Meth kit may reduce your IAT but as I already pointed out it's not easy to setup properly.

Edit:
I see that Sered, RG, and I basically told you the same thing over and over. I think it's pretty obvious but yet you ask the same questions in multiple threads.

How about the headers?
And what you did to handle with high IAT?

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by Weyne Masters

I agree with you,that's reason I be been chatting with Romman, and I won't do nothing without ESS AGREEMENT, I mean,If the ESS team believe we can leaner we going to,if not I won't change the AFR TARGET.
However I've stilling want to IMPROVE THE WHP.
So My question is HOW REDUCE THE IAT?

meth will not reduce IAT unless you spray it into the velocity stacks. There is an intercooler in your manifold, and if the water from the intercooler is hot, it doesn't matter if you spray a lot of meth after the blower, it is just going to heat up again once is passes the manifold intercooler.

Getting a 5 gallon water tank in the trunk is the best bet for IAT suppression.

I am trying the killer chiller. There is no place to put it near the engine so we are mounting it in the trunk. This is not as good as a supplemental water tank but it will allow me to keep full usage of the trunk.

[Sered]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

meth will not reduce IAT unless you spray it into the velocity stacks. There is an intercooler in your manifold, and if the water from the intercooler is hot, it doesn't matter if you spray a lot of meth after the blower, it is just going to heat up again once is passes the manifold intercooler.

Getting a 5 gallon water tank in the trunk is the best bet for IAT suppression.

I am trying the killer chiller. There is no place to put it near the engine so we are mounting it in the trunk. This is not as good as a supplemental water tank but it will allow me to keep full usage of the trunk.

^^^ These are the two best ways to get IAT suppression imo. As Longboarder says, direct port meth is possible but requires a decent amount of time and money to get it right. I personally think IAT suppression will work with a single meth nozzle but it will be much more effective as direct port.

The ice tank in the trunk is really the only proven method at the moment and it is not very difficult to install (at least compared to direct-port meth).

The killer chiller has a lot of potential, but we'll have to see what Longboarder's results are.

[8k3]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

meth will not reduce IAT unless you spray it into the velocity stacks. There is an intercooler in your manifold, and if the water from the intercooler is hot, it doesn't matter if you spray a lot of meth after the blower, it is just going to heat up again once is passes the manifold intercooler.

Getting a 5 gallon water tank in the trunk is the best bet for IAT suppression.

I am trying the killer chiller. There is no place to put it near the engine so we are mounting it in the trunk. This is not as good as a supplemental water tank but it will allow me to keep full usage of the trunk.

Binh doesn't seem to have success I recall with the chiller. Hopefully your results are better. Single nozzle is very difficult to get right and I know you tried, though I don't recall if you ran higher concentrations of meth and larger nozzles. Any it's tough to get dialed in as I mentioned. Port injection is where it's at but also a pain in the ass

[81bear]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

meth will not reduce IAT unless you spray it into the velocity stacks. There is an intercooler in your manifold, and if the water from the intercooler is hot, it doesn't matter if you spray a lot of meth after the blower, it is just going to heat up again once is passes the manifold intercooler.

Getting a 5 gallon water tank in the trunk is the best bet for IAT suppression.

I am trying the killer chiller. There is no place to put it near the engine so we are mounting it in the trunk. This is not as good as a supplemental water tank but it will allow me to keep full usage of the trunk.

Someone needs to make a water tank that can fit in the trunk that will maintain a decent amount of truck space and looks relatively OEM.

[8k3]

Originally Posted by 81bear

Someone needs to make a water tank that can fit in the trunk that will maintain a decent amount of truck space and looks relatively OEM.

Plenty of aluminum tanks that aren't too bad looking on ebay

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by 8k3

Binh doesn't seem to have success I recall with the chiller. Hopefully your results are better. Single nozzle is very difficult to get right and I know you tried, though I don't recall if you ran higher concentrations of meth and larger nozzles. Any it's tough to get dialed in as I mentioned. Port injection is where it's at but also a pain in the ass

MRF is basically re-engineering it for me now. It will be trunk mounted where the stock tire inflation system resides. The A/C freon and intercooler water will be run where the fuel lines are. Serviceability and full trunk usability were the goals. MRF also using steel braided lines and aircraft fittings. So if this thing doesn't work well it was fun (and expensive) trying.

[Weyne Masters]

Nice to know they are working on it,I will waiting for updates,as far as I see the Killer Chiller will be better,but I don't understand ,why the trunk tank,if you going by Killer chiller?
I've called to KIller Chiller,and they has an universal KIT,it it does fit in M3,for 750U$

[Longboarder]

Originally Posted by Weyne Masters

Nice to know they are working on it,I will waiting for updates,as far as I see the Killer Chiller will be better,but I don't understand ,why the trunk tank,if you going by Killer chiller?
I've called to KIller Chiller,and they has an universal KIT,it it does fit in M3,for 750U$

The killer chiller unit is large and was designed for cars with much more room in the front area. Most cars like the Mercedes AMGs install in the chiller unit where the M3 ecu or brake fluid reservoir is because for those cars it's just empty space. We put the car on a lift and there is no where it can fit in the front, even with removal of the front bumper. So the trunk is the only area that will be effective for the M3.

[Weyne Masters]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

The killer chiller unit is large and was designed for cars with much more room in the front area. Most cars like the Mercedes AMGs install in the chiller unit where the M3 ecu or brake fluid reservoir is because for those cars it's just empty space. We put the car on a lift and there is no where it can fit in the front, even with removal of the front bumper. So the trunk is the only area that will be effective for the M3.

Thanks

[Sered]

Originally Posted by Longboarder

The killer chiller unit is large and was designed for cars with much more room in the front area. Most cars like the Mercedes AMGs install in the chiller unit where the M3 ecu or brake fluid reservoir is because for those cars it's just empty space. We put the car on a lift and there is no where it can fit in the front, even with removal of the front bumper. So the trunk is the only area that will be effective for the M3.

Damn that sucks. You said they're following the fuel lines to the trunk? I've been drawing up some ideas for the icebox setup. Trying to decide on a pump arrangement. The stock Bosch should either get some assistance from another Bosch or replace with an in-tank bilge pump like a Rule 2000gph or something.

I think there's a way to arrange it where the rear box can be removed and the front unit used when extra trunk space is needed.

[81bear]

Originally Posted by Sered

Damn that sucks. You said they're following the fuel lines to the trunk? I've been drawing up some ideas for the icebox setup. Trying to decide on a pump arrangement. The stock Bosch should either get some assistance from another Bosch or replace with an in-tank bilge pump like a Rule 2000gph or something.

I think there's a way to arrange it where the rear box can be removed and the front unit used when extra trunk space is needed.

In your design are you sticking with a 5 gallon box? I've often wondered if you could get adequate results with a smaller box...

[Sered]

Originally Posted by 81bear

In your design are you sticking with a 5 gallon box? I've often wondered if you could get adequate results with a smaller box...

Haven't decided yet, but there's plenty of 2.5gal boxes out there. I would think just putting the box in the trunk and running insulated lines would help immensely. But if I'm making it removable for space reasons; I'd probably go with a 5gal.

[Patrón]

Originally Posted by Sered

Damn that sucks. You said they're following the fuel lines to the trunk? I've been drawing up some ideas for the icebox setup. Trying to decide on a pump arrangement. The stock Bosch should either get some assistance from another Bosch or replace with an in-tank bilge pump like a Rule 2000gph or something.

I think there's a way to arrange it where the rear box can be removed and the front unit used when extra trunk space is needed.

that is exactly what i'm trying to create, something with easy dis-connects to run the original configuration.

[81bear]

Originally Posted by Sered

Haven't decided yet, but there's plenty of 2.5gal boxes out there. I would think just putting the box in the trunk and running insulated lines would help immensely. But if I'm making it removable for space reasons; I'd probably go with a 5gal.

Yeah I was thinking the same. 1.5 - 2 gallon tank that can fit on the side of the truck, similar to AA's meth canister location, maybe the ticket. It won't be as effective as a 5 gallon but will allow you to maintain 95% of your trunk space.

[Sered]

Originally Posted by 81bear

Yeah I was thinking the same. 1.5 - 2 gallon tank that can fit on the side of the truck, similar to AA's meth canister location, maybe the ticket. It won't be as effective as a 5 gallon but will allow you to maintain 95% of your trunk space.

Even better if it can fit E93s too