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01-29-2017, 07:33 PM | #1 |
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BE Bearings - New Option - Standard clearance (+0.001's also available)
I found this new option confusing on the website.
What does standard clearance mean? The BMW clearance? or standard BE clearance which was + .001 when they first came out. Is this new option for even more clearance? or is BE now offering bearings with less clearance than the first batches I searched and didn't find anyone mentioning this, and this option wasn't available when I ordered mine.
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01-29-2017, 09:36 PM | #2 |
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I don't have the link handy but the BE website provides this information. Go to the product description for the non-standard bearings and there's a section titled something like 'when to choose +001 bearings'
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01-30-2017, 08:37 AM | #3 | |
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Found it, wasn't on any of the info pages (BMW Bearings, Calico/VAC/WPC)
It was on the product page for only individual bearings sets for 1 cylinder. It wasn't on all product pages which it probably should be. Quote:
Based on this info, the +0.001 provides less clearance, which sounds like it's more inline with factory clearance until you grind/polish the crank. For those not touching the crank and just swapping bearings, it sounds like the standard bearings are what everyone wants.
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01-30-2017, 09:43 AM | #4 | |
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01-30-2017, 06:01 PM | #5 |
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01-31-2017, 11:42 AM | #6 | ||
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01-31-2017, 03:20 PM | #7 |
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Most people will want standard (STD) bearings. These are the standard BE bearings with extra clearance.
People who want the advantages of BE Bearings, but keep factory clearance should order the +0.001's. People working with race shops who want specific clearances and dial them in on a cylinder-by-cylinder basis will want a mixture of each. Contact BE for details. |
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02-08-2017, 01:04 PM | #8 |
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I have a stupid question. I am replacing my bearings with the std BE Bearings. Do I need to replace the bolts, too? I have no intention of supercharging the engine. The shop the service is being done at says they do not need to be replaced but they also recommended going with the OE bearings. If replacement is recommended I'll go with the ARP ones.
Last edited by jagman; 02-08-2017 at 01:28 PM.. |
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02-08-2017, 01:30 PM | #9 | |
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The bolts most definitely need to be replaced. OEM bolts are one time use.
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02-08-2017, 01:37 PM | #10 | |
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This is not a job that I would trust just anyone to do.
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02-10-2017, 04:36 PM | #11 |
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Thank you. I called back later and talked to the shop boss. I asked him and he knew that the bolts were single use. I told him what the other guy said and he was not pleased. He assured me that the guy working on my car is BMW factory trained and one of his best mechanics. And that the other guy would be set straight. It sounded like the other guy was new and working on older track cars.
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03-10-2017, 06:54 PM | #12 |
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You sure about that???? Most of the builders have discarded using the ARP bolts because of distortion and went back to using OEM bolts. If you research it enough you'll see there is no longer any debate.
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03-10-2017, 10:08 PM | #13 | |
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BE shows evidence of similar bore distortion to OEM bolts using their version and their torque specs. The early non-be ARP versions had more bore distortion.
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03-11-2017, 09:27 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
http://wiki-diy.com/index.php/Engine.../S85_Rod_Bolts |
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