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      01-29-2017, 07:33 PM   #1
tdott
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BE Bearings - New Option - Standard clearance (+0.001's also available)

I found this new option confusing on the website.

What does standard clearance mean? The BMW clearance? or standard BE clearance which was + .001 when they first came out.

Is this new option for even more clearance?
or is BE now offering bearings with less clearance than the first batches

I searched and didn't find anyone mentioning this, and this option wasn't available when I ordered mine.
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      01-29-2017, 09:36 PM   #2
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I don't have the link handy but the BE website provides this information. Go to the product description for the non-standard bearings and there's a section titled something like 'when to choose +001 bearings'
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      01-30-2017, 08:37 AM   #3
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Found it, wasn't on any of the info pages (BMW Bearings, Calico/VAC/WPC)

It was on the product page for only individual bearings sets for 1 cylinder. It wasn't on all product pages which it probably should be.

Quote:
When to choose +001 Bearings?
  • Engine builders who want to dial in clearance 0.0005 inch at a time will love these bearings.
  • During installation, if you measured your cleaerance and were concerned about a little "too much" clearance, these +001 bearings will help close it up a bit.
  • Very minor crankshaft damage that didn't warrant a full regrind, but could clean up by polishing the bearing journal. If you're in that situation, you need these bearings.
  • If you prefer less extra clearance of standard BE Bearings, and also want the superior Clevite TriArmor coating.

Based on this info, the +0.001 provides less clearance, which sounds like it's more inline with factory clearance until you grind/polish the crank.

For those not touching the crank and just swapping bearings, it sounds like the standard bearings are what everyone wants.
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      01-30-2017, 09:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Based on this info, the +0.001 provides less clearance, which sounds like it's more inline with factory clearance until you grind/polish the crank.

For those not touching the crank and just swapping bearings, it sounds like the standard bearings are what everyone wants.
That was my understanding as well.
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      01-30-2017, 06:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
For those not touching the crank and just swapping bearings, it sounds like the standard bearings are what everyone wants.
Correct
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      01-31-2017, 11:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Found it, wasn't on any of the info pages (BMW Bearings, Calico/VAC/WPC)

It was on the product page for only individual bearings sets for 1 cylinder. It wasn't on all product pages which it probably should be.

Quote:
When to choose +001 Bearings?
  • Engine builders who want to dial in clearance 0.0005 inch at a time will love these bearings.
  • During installation, if you measured your cleaerance and were concerned about a little "too much" clearance, these +001 bearings will help close it up a bit.
  • Very minor crankshaft damage that didn't warrant a full regrind, but could clean up by polishing the bearing journal. If you're in that situation, you need these bearings.
  • If you prefer less extra clearance of standard BE Bearings, and also want the superior Clevite TriArmor coating.

Based on this info, the +0.001 provides less clearance, which sounds like it's more inline with factory clearance until you grind/polish the crank.

For those not touching the crank and just swapping bearings, it sounds like the standard bearings are what everyone wants.
So the standart clearance is be bearing standart not bmw standart ? I mean more clearance than oem bmw rod bearing?
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      01-31-2017, 03:20 PM   #7
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Most people will want standard (STD) bearings. These are the standard BE bearings with extra clearance.

People who want the advantages of BE Bearings, but keep factory clearance should order the +0.001's.

People working with race shops who want specific clearances and dial them in on a cylinder-by-cylinder basis will want a mixture of each. Contact BE for details.
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      02-08-2017, 01:04 PM   #8
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I have a stupid question. I am replacing my bearings with the std BE Bearings. Do I need to replace the bolts, too? I have no intention of supercharging the engine. The shop the service is being done at says they do not need to be replaced but they also recommended going with the OE bearings. If replacement is recommended I'll go with the ARP ones.

Last edited by jagman; 02-08-2017 at 01:28 PM..
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      02-08-2017, 01:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagman View Post
I have a stupid question. I am replacing my bearings with the std BE Bearings. Do I need to replace the bolts, too? I have no intention of supercharging the engine. The shop the service is being done at says they do not need to be replaced but they also recommended going with the OE bearings. If replacement is recommended I'll go with the ARP ones.
Find a new shop asap.

The bolts most definitely need to be replaced. OEM bolts are one time use.
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      02-08-2017, 01:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagman View Post
I have a stupid question. I am replacing my bearings with the std BE Bearings. Do I need to replace the bolts, too? I have no intention of supercharging the engine. The shop the service is being done at says they do not need to be replaced but they also recommended going with the OE bearings. If replacement is recommended I'll go with the ARP ones.
They sound like they have no experience with S65s and no experience with BMW motors in general. The OEM bolts are torque to yield, which are one time use only, the fact that they didn't know this is scary. ARP hardware is re-use-able within certain limits.

This is not a job that I would trust just anyone to do.
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      02-10-2017, 04:36 PM   #11
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Thank you. I called back later and talked to the shop boss. I asked him and he knew that the bolts were single use. I told him what the other guy said and he was not pleased. He assured me that the guy working on my car is BMW factory trained and one of his best mechanics. And that the other guy would be set straight. It sounded like the other guy was new and working on older track cars.
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      03-10-2017, 06:54 PM   #12
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You sure about that???? Most of the builders have discarded using the ARP bolts because of distortion and went back to using OEM bolts. If you research it enough you'll see there is no longer any debate.
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      03-10-2017, 10:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spr View Post
You sure about that???? Most of the builders have discarded using the ARP bolts because of distortion and went back to using OEM bolts. If you research it enough you'll see there is no longer any debate.
Where is your proof?
BE shows evidence of similar bore distortion to OEM bolts using their version and their torque specs.

The early non-be ARP versions had more bore distortion.
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      03-11-2017, 09:27 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Where is your proof?
BE shows evidence of similar bore distortion to OEM bolts using their version and their torque specs.

The early non-be ARP versions had more bore distortion.
Correct. The non-BE ARP bolts are the ones shown with bore distortion, while the BE-ARP bolts are the ones closest to OEM. All of the measurements and findings are documented at the BE rod bolts wiki page.

http://wiki-diy.com/index.php/Engine.../S85_Rod_Bolts
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