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01-31-2013, 05:19 PM | #23 | |
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Or simply disable the feature.
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01-31-2013, 05:27 PM | #24 |
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+1 for battery from Sears. Had it since October if I'm not mistaken. It was under $200.
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01-31-2013, 06:25 PM | #25 |
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The Sears battery is AGM right?
I'm assuming it's best to code for it too?
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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10-31-2013, 06:31 PM | #26 |
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10-31-2013, 08:59 PM | #27 | |
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also, how did you get it coded? The battery prices are quoted with a exchange. http://www.sears.com/automotive-batt...R&viewItems=50 Last edited by mdosu; 10-31-2013 at 09:06 PM.. |
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10-31-2013, 10:12 PM | #28 |
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You shouldn't need coding if the battery is close to the stock battery's CCA.
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10-31-2013, 10:27 PM | #29 | |
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Had Benvo reset my battery, and I got coding done while he did it. To me, no seatbelt warning, rolling up windows with keyfob was worth it. And no, my car is not on a tender. I drive it about twice a week and no problems. But considering how little you drive your car, I'd definitely get one for sure.
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10-31-2013, 10:32 PM | #30 | ||
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http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=884504 You will need the battery, coding cable, and the software linked in the thread to code it yourself. Takes all of 5 mins for the coding. Quote:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...20&postcount=8 Last edited by whats77inaname; 10-31-2013 at 10:38 PM.. |
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10-31-2013, 10:41 PM | #31 | ||
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10-31-2013, 10:45 PM | #32 | |
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I removed the battery and took it up there in my truck so I exchanged it when I purchased the new one. I coded the battery a couple months later after I acquired the cable and located the software. Sears will replace the battery for ~$20ish while you wait, if you'd like. Driving the car for a bit until coded won't hurt it. Coding via the BMWLogger software consists of booting up the machine, plugging the OBDII cable into the computer and the OBDII port, starting the software, and selecting the "Battery reset" option from the menu. You get a confirmation message, unplug, and you're done. Last edited by whats77inaname; 10-31-2013 at 10:52 PM.. |
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10-31-2013, 11:35 PM | #33 | |
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I forgot what I paid, but I brought it at home, didn't do a core exchange. I didn't know about it. It was prob $200 for me.
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11-01-2013, 12:28 AM | #34 | ||
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11-02-2013, 12:48 AM | #35 |
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+1 I'll go the Sears route as well. Looks like this is the battery:
http://www.sears.com/diehard-advance...3&blockType=G3
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11-02-2013, 12:50 AM | #36 |
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I wonder what BMW would charge to reset/code my battery if I were to install one from SEARS?
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11-02-2013, 01:20 AM | #37 |
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11-02-2013, 06:57 AM | #38 | |
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11-02-2013, 06:44 PM | #39 | |
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I will, however, verify w/him and post what he says. Last edited by whats77inaname; 11-02-2013 at 07:11 PM.. |
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11-02-2013, 06:50 PM | #40 |
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What is all this talk about having to code/reset a battery? First I hear of it and I just replaced my battery today. Everything seems to work okay... So why reset/code or whatever?
Am I using same inpa software to reset it that I used to code the seatbelt and other minor crap?
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11-02-2013, 06:54 PM | #41 | |
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.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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11-02-2013, 07:02 PM | #42 | |
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11-02-2013, 07:07 PM | #43 | ||||
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My question to him: "Question regarding battery registration: The BMWLogger software has a "New Battery Registration" option that I used to register my new battery. Do I need to do anything else?" MB's response: "You would have to ask them as I didn't write the software, but I presume that's all that is required." Last edited by whats77inaname; 11-02-2013 at 08:03 PM.. |
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01-16-2015, 10:44 PM | #44 | |
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This battery is now BAD according to my local Auto Zone and their testing equipment. That is just 1 year and 2 months (I assume Boostin did not have it registered, EDIT he did, not sure of the problem). The installed battery is 80ah and 640cca. I have been seeing 90ah and 850cca commonly. I do not know how to determine which battery this car came with. The condition window is black which means insufficiently charged. I plan to replace it with an AGM battery (and have it registered/coded) which should hold charge longer and be considerably more powerful (cca and ah ratings anyways). Last edited by mxa121; 01-17-2015 at 09:29 AM.. |
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