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KEEP M3POST ALIVE BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER LINK! |
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03-10-2011, 03:13 PM | #23 |
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That's exactly what comes with the car, not runflats. But, the fix-a-flat goop does not work with many punctures, and it usually screws up the TPM.
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03-10-2011, 04:23 PM | #24 | |
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As stated, M3's do not come with run flat tires. There's a sticky thread at the top of this forum started by Ben@TireRack that beats that one to death. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=463157. Using the goop is something to avoid if at all possible.
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03-10-2011, 04:47 PM | #25 | |
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http://patchboy.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...tegory_Code=ki |
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03-10-2011, 05:05 PM | #26 | |
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The Patchboy kit is a temporary fix, correct? It looks like it could be used long term in many situations.
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03-10-2011, 05:15 PM | #27 | |
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03-10-2011, 05:30 PM | #28 | |
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03-10-2011, 05:54 PM | #29 |
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Sure, just be aware your handling characteristics will change. Or, just get an M3 when your tires wear out!
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Greg Lake Oswego, Oregon, USA 2023 M2 Coupe - Brooklyn Grey/Cognac/CF, 6MT; 2020 MB GLE 450 |
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03-11-2011, 01:05 AM | #30 | |
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I have a 2008 335i that, because of bad wheel alignment (apparently) needs two front tires. The rear RFT's are fine because both were replaced under the warranty because of flats. Do I have to worry about any performance problems if I replace just the two fronts with new RFT's? I'm assuming not because each of the rear tires was replaced independently of the others so the treadwear isn;t even all around anyway. I also would like to get the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 ZP's from Tire Rack because I have had much better experience with Michelin's over the years than with Bridgestone. The car has the OEM Bridgestones on the rear. Again, any performance issues I should be worried about with the Michelins on the front and the Bridgestones on the rear? When the rears need replacing I'll replace them with the Michelin Pilot Sports. These tires are expensive enough without replacing two perfectly good tires on the rear right now! Any advice would be appreciated. |
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03-11-2011, 07:52 AM | #31 | |
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although i'm going to be riding on profile 30's for the first time this this summer and my car's a daily driver so i'm a bit freaked out... but i'm sure i'll get over it |
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03-11-2011, 08:37 AM | #32 | |
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Greg Lake Oswego, Oregon, USA 2023 M2 Coupe - Brooklyn Grey/Cognac/CF, 6MT; 2020 MB GLE 450 |
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03-11-2011, 10:46 AM | #33 | |
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03-11-2011, 11:01 AM | #34 |
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Replacing tires
Chaswyck, check out the Vredestein Ultrac Sessantas (search this forum for a couple threads). I think they're equal to PS2s for about 2/3 the price.
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03-15-2011, 04:56 PM | #35 | ||
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Hey gang, somebody resurrected my thread from the dead . But I'm glad since I have more input to provide.
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Learn how it works BEFORE you need it folks. And that works for ANY kit. Anyway, the most crucial step is to ram the hole with the file SEVERAL times, until it's relatively easy to pull file in and out. This will prevent the plug from being torn by sharp wires while pulling tool out of the hole. Then just follow the instructions EXCEPT the pulling on the plug part (DON'T DO IT; there's no need to) and you'd be done. As what to expect from it? It did way better than I thought. The first plug failed while pulling the excess to cut it. Didn't realize I needed to ram the hole better, so installed a second one, and cut it without pulling it, but I know it was also damaged by the cords when pulling the tool out, since half the stem is exposed. Anyway, drove about 250 miles with the first plug, most at the ton and above, and 30 miles of twisties. Then got the TPMS light. Aired the tire (manual pump) and traveled another 100 miles. Then TPMS light again, aired tire again, and arrived at my destination 400 miles later. Inspected plug and it looked mostly fine, but my guess is the head was partially into the hole due to centrifugal forces, allowing air to escape. Replaced plug and it failed 80 miles into the return trip, at mostly 90. Until here 2 things became obvious to me: the cords were damaging the plug, so I needed to ram the hole better, and temperatures were having an effect on maximum sustained speeds. It was 84ºF by now. At this point I made the final repair, ramming the hole well, then installing the 3rd and final plug. It was getting pretty hot, and I'd not have the luxury of a roof if anything happened in the next 200 miles, so I played it safe, and didn't exceed 80 in a sustained basis. Got car up to 94 by accident once, but pretty much stayed near 80. Zero problems the next 320 miles, and after 3 days here, zero pressure loss. Bottom line is assuming the plug is installed as described above, the plug maximum speed is dependent mostly on ambient and asphalt temperature, as the higher the temperature, the softer the silicon gets, and that eventually forces part of the head into the hole, just like it squeezed into the tool. The great news is even at triple digit speeds, and after airing it THREE times, it never blew out. I obviously tried this alone for the benefit of this forum . With TPMS, you're stopped before the tire fully deflates, even if plug was to blow out. But in my case, it was pretty gradual. Every time I stopped, pressure was near 30 psi, which is where TPMS triggers. This is one feature worth its weight in gold IMO. I'll gladly replace the sensors every 7 years for this piece of mind . To finish, it got up to 87ºF, and I'm sure the plug could still go many hundreds of miles more without exceeding 80 in hot conditions. With my jack, didn't have to remove the tire, and with a towel, gloves, and a hand pump, I was as clean as if nothing had happened. If I had a new flat on the left side and had to fix it on the highway, I'd definitely remove the wheel/tire and safely perform the repair away from traffic. THAT's why you want to carry a jack folks . RUNFLATS and compact SPARES. I used to think Runflat advantages outweigh their drawbacks up to this trip, but not anymore folks. And here's why: Runflats are typically twice or more more expensive than regular tires, they require special equipment to mount/dismount you're not likely to find in small cities and towns (where I mostly travel), and it clearly says on the sidewall they're NOT to be repaired. Since only large shops have the equipment to dismount them, good luck finding one that will plug one. And finally, they're supposed to be used only for 50 miles, but based on TWO accounts from Ferrari F430 owners, they collapse after 100 miles... and that car is a lot lighter than our M3s. So if I had had runflats on this trip, supposedly the 'best of both worlds', I'd have ended up stranded in the middle of nowhere, and would have needed a 200-mile tow. Oh, and who the hell stocks 265/35/19 runflats? NOBODY folks. Enough said. Will NEVER consider them again. And what about compact SPARES? They're good as a last resort if your car is such equipped, but they're dangerous, smaller than your other tires, have no TPMS, and you shouldn't really go above 60 max due to blowout risk, especially in hot temperatures. Therefore, the best solution for a flat IMO is a 'mushroom' kit, like Stop'n Go or Patchboy, but after checking Patchboy out, it apparently requires making a MUCH LARGER hole, plus the risk if glue dried out, you'd be SOL. At least 320 miles in your regular tire, with zero air pressure loss, with the piece of mind of TPMS, and your regular, strong tire, the Stop'n Go kit beats the hell out of all other alternatives IMO. Hope this helped folks. And no, I have nothing to do with them; just a satisfied customer sharing his experience. Oh, and forgot to say the number one 'defensive' line against flats: avoid construction zones and/or areas with a lot of debris, or not paved. Better travel a mile or two down the road and make a U turn in a safe (for your car) place. And if you must drive thru a construction zone, GO SLOWLY, as the typical flat scenario is the front tire kicking up a screw into the rear tire, which is exactly what happened to mine. Take care gang. Last edited by JCtx; 03-15-2011 at 05:09 PM.. |
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03-15-2011, 06:37 PM | #36 | |
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03-15-2011, 09:39 PM | #37 |
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Jacks
The E46 3-series jack pictured in post #4 weighs only 2.4 lb. and fits nicely under the trunk floor. It may not be as stable as some other designs, but considering BMW thought it adequate and I've never has to use it, I think it's the preferable option for carry-along jacks (except for the track).
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03-16-2011, 04:07 PM | #38 | |
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That worked perfectly ; thanks man. Don't know why I didn't try it before, because I thought about it; guess it looked too big . Plus the weight is in the middle of the car, still have the full trunk's space, and nobody rides on the back seat either. Since I also don't like the jack kit unrestrained in the trunk, I was only carrying it in trips; now I'll carry it all the time . I shoved it under the seat as far as it went, and now it doesn't move one bit sideways (for cornering), or forward (panic stop). I honestly feel much safer with this jack than the E46 one, and I already have it (plus it comes with the torque wrench, wheel chock, gloves, etc). The 10 extra pounds (or whatever it is) is minimal, and under the passenger seat it helps offset my 160# or so (we need to look at the bright side, right? ). |
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03-16-2011, 07:18 PM | #39 |
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That becomes an unrestrained heavy object if you should roll your car.
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03-16-2011, 07:23 PM | #40 |
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03-16-2011, 08:34 PM | #41 |
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Can anyone elaborate on the risk of a loose (unsecured) compact spare in the trunk? In a major crash, is the concern that it will injure the passengers/driver by traveling into the passenger compartment? If so, via the rear deck area?
Just wanted to confirm the risk. I do plan on strapping a spare in the trunk when/if I carry one (making a kit via the X6 spare wheel). Thanks.
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03-16-2011, 08:36 PM | #42 |
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Indeed .
The engine would also become an 'unrestrained heavy object' if you hit a wall at 100 mph . Come on man . But if you want to get technical, with the jack shoved under the front seat, the jack would only drop onto the roof (assuming car ends up upside down) with no forward acceleration, meaning it wouldn't hit a front occupant. Oh, and you could use it to break a window, if not already broken . And as a weapon against possible looters . See? You need to look at the bright side . |
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03-16-2011, 10:05 PM | #43 | |
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