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01-04-2016, 01:52 PM | #45 | |
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They squeal a little bit going around the paddock at slow speeds though - the squeal/grinding sound is kinda scary when cold. DS2500 which is what I use for street don't seem to squeal at all. I think roastbeef runs DS2500 both track and street. If you're heavy on the brakes at the track I don't think you have much choice when it comes to having some squeal - you'll burn up your pads otherwise after a couple days at most.
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01-04-2016, 02:16 PM | #46 | ||
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01-04-2016, 07:28 PM | #47 | ||
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Plus...that used bottle of brake fluid you just topped off your reservoir with probably has a LOT more moisture in it that what's in your reservoir.
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01-04-2016, 08:30 PM | #48 | |
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i have the first essex ap kit for the e9x platform just on the front of my car. i'm running ferodo ds2500 pads (hybrid race/street), stainless braided lines, and castrol srf fluid. rear brakes are oem, but i have a set of ds2500 pads for the oem rears in the mail right now. the brakes feel phenomenal on the track and never quit. always consistent- on a hybrid pad with 275 nitto nt01's. these rotors are that good. the ds2500 pads are great, but i haven't used anything else yet. sounds like the op wants something that works and doesn't want to touch them again. the ds2500's don't squeak or make any noise on the street and you would never know there was a bbk with a hybrid pad when driving the car- it drives like oem. no additional noise, no rattles, squeaks, etc., and the peddal feel is a little better than before. not that stoptech isn't good, but if it isn't cutting it and the op doesn't want to mess with swapping pads- fluid and ducting may be wasted time/money when the real solution is a more serious bbk.
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01-05-2016, 08:18 PM | #49 | |
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Its not just the weight. I think it has more to do with the power. I'm traveling 6-7mph faster down the front straight at Road America in my E90 than in my E46 (only mod is an exhaust).
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01-06-2016, 02:25 AM | #50 |
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i agree. jeff ritter explains in the essex thread how a light car traveling faster than a heavier car can generate more braking heat.
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01-06-2016, 05:04 AM | #51 |
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I'm not sure why you'd top off...unless you're somehow below the minimum line, meaning the pads would likely need replacement and/or you've boiled your fluid. FWIW, I have no decrease in my fluid reservoir with SRF over the entire season.
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01-15-2016, 11:06 PM | #52 | |
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This is the side facing the pistons. Notice the gold color with slight bits of purple. This means that the backing plates on the pads (e.g. caliper side) are reaching approximately 750F (400C). Also notice the uncolored circular regions where the pistons are making contact. I didn't take a picture of the reverse (pad side), but it is solid gold in color with significant purple stripes. |
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01-16-2016, 03:48 PM | #53 | |
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Wow, really surprised the DS2500 has done double-duty so nicely! I used to run it on the street on my old Audi S4 (similar weight to the M3) and really liked it. The one time I got that car on track the pads were quite predictable, but that car wasn't as fast as the M3.
I may give these a shot on my ST40 kit if the included StopTech SP pads don't cut it. Quote:
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01-16-2016, 06:23 PM | #54 |
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01-16-2016, 07:35 PM | #55 | |
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02-15-2016, 10:52 PM | #56 |
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I run ST60/40 Trophy kit. Slotted Rotors.
I prefer Cobalt XR pads since they require little to no bedding. They are ready to go out the box or after the first warmup. They play nice with whatever transfer layer you already have on the disc. I pair them with 1mm Titanium shields. At COTA I consume 2-3mm front pads per 6-7 sessions. I run Slicks, so I'm sure this is a contributor of wear. I observed very little rotor wear over 20 track days. Less than .4mm all around. Pads are 18mm new. You should take measurements of where you are pad wise before you start the day. Take a look where you are after lunch. If you are down to the last 3mm of pad, don't go out on track. If you like to push the envelope, bring extra sets of 1mm shims. It may buy you one session, but I still wouldn't advise it. I always bring a spare set of pads to the track, no questions asked. I'm not a fan of Motul RBF 600 or 660. I run RT700, it's near SRF performance at 1/3 the price so you can offset the SRF wet boiling advantages by doing an extra bleed as needed. I recommend cooling ducts. The brakes are pretty much invincible with proper cooling. I use this for my caliper tool. It's about the size of a cordless impact driver: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Qu.../dp/B005GLQCKA Wheels off. Open Reservoir. I use a 5mm hex bit on my cordless impact driver (inch pounds) to get the bridge bolts out. You can use a small pry tool to get the bridge out. I have a 4" pry bar. Spread the pistons with the tool. Remove the pads (I keep a punch to grab the pads if they are still hotter than gloved hands can handle) Reverse order. It takes longer to get the car up and wheels off than it does to change pads. I don't go ham tightening the bridge bolts just the first click is enough. Last edited by MasterP; 02-15-2016 at 11:01 PM.. |
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