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      01-04-2016, 01:52 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
I opted for the drilled rotors for street use because they looked "cool". For the occasional track day they worked fine together with the Stop Tech street pads but anything serious and I will likely go slotted rotors with upgraded pads and fluid. I can't stand brake squeal even at the track so my options on pads are more limited.
The Ferodo DS1.11 pads I run on the track don't seem to squeal that loud at the track, certainly a lot less than the PFC08 that I used to run.

They squeal a little bit going around the paddock at slow speeds though - the squeal/grinding sound is kinda scary when cold. DS2500 which is what I use for street don't seem to squeal at all. I think roastbeef runs DS2500 both track and street.

If you're heavy on the brakes at the track I don't think you have much choice when it comes to having some squeal - you'll burn up your pads otherwise after a couple days at most.
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      01-04-2016, 02:16 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
There is a wide range of rotor options for the Stoptech kit because the rotors are the same size, shape and mounting flange as Brembo racing rotors. The key to picking the right rotor for a really demanding application is rotor weight. The heavier, the better. The higher thermal capacity keeps the rotors running at lower peak temperatures.

From what the OP has indicated, he should be fine with the Stoptech kit he's got so long as he runs slotted rotors, SRF, titanium backing plates and decent sprint pads, like one of the PFC options or a Raybestos ST43 or ST47
I opted for the drilled rotors for street use because they looked "cool". For the occasional track day they worked fine together with the Stop Tech street pads but anything serious and I will likely go slotted rotors with upgraded pads and fluid. I can't stand brake squeal even at the track so my options on pads are more limited.
If track pads are squealing at the track, they're either cold or don't have a good transfer layer on the rotor yet, or both. Those are both temporary conditions. After fixing those, they should be silent on track. In fact my PFC08s only squealed reliably on the road when applying medium braking force (by street standards) and slowing from about 30 MPH on down. The squeal was pretty awful, mind you, and I feel bad for pedestrians who were waiting at the crosswalks I pulled up to, but that and desire to avoid excessive rotor wear on the road is why I seldom had those in on the street. I've read that the new PFC 11s don't squeal even on the street and are nicer on rotors than 08s, though they don't last as long, whereas DS1.11s last longer but will squeal on the street, but I haven't personally tried either of them.
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      01-04-2016, 07:28 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
I opted for the drilled rotors for street use because they looked "cool". For the occasional track day they worked fine together with the Stop Tech street pads but anything serious and I will likely go slotted rotors with upgraded pads and fluid. I can't stand brake squeal even at the track so my options on pads are more limited.
I'd just keep the drilled rotors. They work the same as slotted ones. As they get worn and cracked you do need to watch them (look front AND back) but I wouldn't ditch perfectly fine drilled rotors for slotted ones. The OE rotors can take a lot of abuse...I'm sure the stoptech rotors will be fine.

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Bigjae is correct, although technically the longer the cap is open, the more moisture you're introducing into the system, so don't leave it open longer than you have to, but as long as you keep an eye on fluid level you should be fine.
I'd rather introduce a little moisture into the system for 15 minutes by taking the lid off. If you're counting on the fluid in your reservoir to save you by maintaining the optimal boiling point...you have much bigger issues.

Plus...that used bottle of brake fluid you just topped off your reservoir with probably has a LOT more moisture in it that what's in your reservoir.
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      01-04-2016, 08:30 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
If you want to step up from that level, then you can go with the AP Racing kit from Essex or the Brembo Club Racing kit. They are not particularly nice on the street, but they handle the heat better.
thats sort of what i'm getting at- if someone wants to forget worrying about brakes completely, then get the essex ap racing kit.
i have the first essex ap kit for the e9x platform just on the front of my car. i'm running ferodo ds2500 pads (hybrid race/street), stainless braided lines, and castrol srf fluid. rear brakes are oem, but i have a set of ds2500 pads for the oem rears in the mail right now.
the brakes feel phenomenal on the track and never quit. always consistent- on a hybrid pad with 275 nitto nt01's. these rotors are that good. the ds2500 pads are great, but i haven't used anything else yet. sounds like the op wants something that works and doesn't want to touch them again. the ds2500's don't squeak or make any noise on the street and you would never know there was a bbk with a hybrid pad when driving the car- it drives like oem. no additional noise, no rattles, squeaks, etc., and the peddal feel is a little better than before.
not that stoptech isn't good, but if it isn't cutting it and the op doesn't want to mess with swapping pads- fluid and ducting may be wasted time/money when the real solution is a more serious bbk.
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      01-05-2016, 08:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
but if it isn't cutting it and the op doesn't want to mess with swapping pads- fluid and ducting may be wasted time/money when the real solution is a more serious bbk.
I really think a BBK gets you by. A BBK w/ ducting should allow a very high limit of abuse. In my E90, I took off about 3mm of brake pad a weekend on the fronts. That's about 4 weekends on the ST60 kit. Didn't matter if it was pagid yellows, PF01s or Stoptech SR34s.

Its not just the weight. I think it has more to do with the power. I'm traveling 6-7mph faster down the front straight at Road America in my E90 than in my E46 (only mod is an exhaust).
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      01-06-2016, 02:25 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Its not just the weight. I think it has more to do with the power. I'm traveling 6-7mph faster down the front straight at Road America in my E90 than in my E46 (only mod is an exhaust).
i agree. jeff ritter explains in the essex thread how a light car traveling faster than a heavier car can generate more braking heat.
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      01-06-2016, 05:04 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Plus...that used bottle of brake fluid you just topped off your reservoir with probably has a LOT more moisture in it that what's in your reservoir.
I'm not sure why you'd top off...unless you're somehow below the minimum line, meaning the pads would likely need replacement and/or you've boiled your fluid. FWIW, I have no decrease in my fluid reservoir with SRF over the entire season.
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      01-15-2016, 11:06 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by ban25 View Post
After I cooked my calipers and had to get them rebuilt, I ordered a set of titanium heat shields for the fronts:

http://hardbrakes.com/

I've had these in for 7 track days and so far so good...if I do cook them again, I'll install a ducting kit, but this is a much easier and faster fix for the time being.
I thought I'd post an update here as I just changed out my front pads after 6 track days. Here's what the heat shields look like:



This is the side facing the pistons. Notice the gold color with slight bits of purple. This means that the backing plates on the pads (e.g. caliper side) are reaching approximately 750F (400C). Also notice the uncolored circular regions where the pistons are making contact. I didn't take a picture of the reverse (pad side), but it is solid gold in color with significant purple stripes.
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      01-16-2016, 03:48 PM   #53
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Wow, really surprised the DS2500 has done double-duty so nicely! I used to run it on the street on my old Audi S4 (similar weight to the M3) and really liked it. The one time I got that car on track the pads were quite predictable, but that car wasn't as fast as the M3.

I may give these a shot on my ST40 kit if the included StopTech SP pads don't cut it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
thats sort of what i'm getting at- if someone wants to forget worrying about brakes completely, then get the essex ap racing kit.
i have the first essex ap kit for the e9x platform just on the front of my car. i'm running ferodo ds2500 pads (hybrid race/street), stainless braided lines, and castrol srf fluid. rear brakes are oem, but i have a set of ds2500 pads for the oem rears in the mail right now.
the brakes feel phenomenal on the track and never quit. always consistent- on a hybrid pad with 275 nitto nt01's. these rotors are that good. the ds2500 pads are great, but i haven't used anything else yet. sounds like the op wants something that works and doesn't want to touch them again. the ds2500's don't squeak or make any noise on the street and you would never know there was a bbk with a hybrid pad when driving the car- it drives like oem. no additional noise, no rattles, squeaks, etc., and the peddal feel is a little better than before.
not that stoptech isn't good, but if it isn't cutting it and the op doesn't want to mess with swapping pads- fluid and ducting may be wasted time/money when the real solution is a more serious bbk.
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      01-16-2016, 06:23 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
i agree. jeff ritter explains in the essex thread how a light car traveling faster than a heavier car can generate more braking heat.
Kinetic energy increases by the speed to the second power but linearly to mass. Speed is a much larger driver
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      01-16-2016, 07:35 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Wow, really surprised the DS2500 has done double-duty so nicely! I used to run it on the street on my old Audi S4 (similar weight to the M3) and really liked it. The one time I got that car on track the pads were quite predictable, but that car wasn't as fast as the M3.

I may give these a shot on my ST40 kit if the included StopTech SP pads don't cut it.
keep in mind that this is my first bbk and first pad i've used in this bbk. so yea, i think its great, but its all i know so far. i've had to deal with fade from the oem brakes, and since i'm now enjoying no fade and consistent braking with this bbk may not mean that its the best. i'm just not in a hurry to change it up since it performs so well on the street and at the track. makes sense?
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      02-15-2016, 10:52 PM   #56
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I run ST60/40 Trophy kit. Slotted Rotors.

I prefer Cobalt XR pads since they require little to no bedding. They are ready to go out the box or after the first warmup. They play nice with whatever transfer layer you already have on the disc. I pair them with 1mm Titanium shields.

At COTA I consume 2-3mm front pads per 6-7 sessions. I run Slicks, so I'm sure this is a contributor of wear. I observed very little rotor wear over 20 track days. Less than .4mm all around.

Pads are 18mm new. You should take measurements of where you are pad wise before you start the day. Take a look where you are after lunch. If you are down to the last 3mm of pad, don't go out on track. If you like to push the envelope, bring extra sets of 1mm shims. It may buy you one session, but I still wouldn't advise it. I always bring a spare set of pads to the track, no questions asked.

I'm not a fan of Motul RBF 600 or 660. I run RT700, it's near SRF performance at 1/3 the price so you can offset the SRF wet boiling advantages by doing an extra bleed as needed.

I recommend cooling ducts. The brakes are pretty much invincible with proper cooling.

I use this for my caliper tool. It's about the size of a cordless impact driver:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Qu.../dp/B005GLQCKA

Wheels off.

Open Reservoir.

I use a 5mm hex bit on my cordless impact driver (inch pounds) to get the bridge bolts out. You can use a small pry tool to get the bridge out. I have a 4" pry bar.

Spread the pistons with the tool.

Remove the pads (I keep a punch to grab the pads if they are still hotter than gloved hands can handle)

Reverse order. It takes longer to get the car up and wheels off than it does to change pads. I don't go ham tightening the bridge bolts just the first click is enough.

Last edited by MasterP; 02-15-2016 at 11:01 PM..
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