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KEEP M3POST ALIVE BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER LINK! |
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06-22-2009, 08:18 PM | #1 |
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Dealer install price for swapping 18's with 19's?
Just wanted to get an estimate on how much bmw shops would charge to swap out my oem 18's +tires for oem 19's and have them aligned properly.
Do you think I should go to a bmw authorized place to get this done or can anyone do it? I've never swapped wheels on a car before so pardon my ignorance. Just looking for an estimate..thanks |
06-22-2009, 09:04 PM | #2 | |
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06-22-2009, 09:32 PM | #3 |
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You can buy a jack and a torque wrench for $100, and swap them yourself in your garage/yard as much as you want. That is rather simple. Transporting the wheels to the dealer is not worth the hassle either. No need for alignment as mentioned above.
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06-22-2009, 09:45 PM | #4 |
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I think he means he would like to trade-in his 18s toward dealer purchased 19s. I would go elsewhere for those and try to sell the 18s later on this forum.
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06-22-2009, 09:46 PM | #5 |
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I am assuming you own both sets right? If so do it yourself. It is not hard at all. If you not comfortable with doing it yourself then ask a friend or someone to help you. Like Lucid said all you need is a jack and a torque wrench. If you mean for the dealer to take your 18's in as a trade for their 19's then forget about it. They won't give you enough and will probably charge retail for the 19's that you can prolly buy here on the forum after you sell your 18's.
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06-22-2009, 09:51 PM | #6 | |
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I'm not looking to swap with the dealer. I just assumed they had to be realigned. I suppose I could just get the jack and torque wrench and go at it myself. |
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06-22-2009, 09:54 PM | #8 |
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got mine at autozone
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06-22-2009, 10:00 PM | #9 | |
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Sears "Craftsman-brand" is a good source for consumer-quality tools that tend to last. All should be available for about $150-200 max, and you need to own those tools anyway. Don't waste your money on the cheapest jacks and torque wrenches you can find. They stand a good chance of failing fairly quickly (ask me how I know), and you'll learn quickly you should have purchased better quality stuff initially.
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Last edited by foosh; 06-22-2009 at 10:18 PM.. |
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06-22-2009, 10:14 PM | #10 |
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I've heard of this many times, but don't really follow. You have to use the torque wrench to tighten the bolts, otherwise you can't use it (can't get a measurement). So when you torque the bolts, the wrench obviously experiences the spec torque. When you break the bolts--assuming they are torqued to spec--it will again experience the same torque. So what exactly is the issue? Why are people saying you need a breaker bar? (Again, unless you have reason to believe the bolts are way over torqued). Plus, if you look at the operational torque range of most torque wrenches, you wil see that they go way above 88 ft-lbs. Often up 150 ft-lbs or more. So why would a manufacturer rate an instrument at 150 ft-lbs if operating it at 88 ft-lbs to torque bolts will throw off the calibration?
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06-22-2009, 10:21 PM | #12 |
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88 ft-lbs. Don't over torque. More torque is not better/safer.
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06-22-2009, 10:29 PM | #14 |
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One more vote for doing it yourself. You can get a jack at Harbor Freight or Sears - I bought mine at the former for on sale ~$120 and it is very well made for the price. Torque wrenches vary in price but there are a lot of options out there for less than $100.
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06-22-2009, 10:29 PM | #15 | |
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However, I can't give you a definitive answer, and breaker bars are cheap. I do know that torque wrenches do go out of calibration fairly routinely, and there are services available to have them re-calibrated. I had a cheap one (Home Depot, "Husky") fail recently--it would loosen, but no longer tighten (spinning freely). I have several cars I swap wheels on, and when it failed, I don't recall where it was set previously. I had previously been using it for both loosening and tightening, and only set the calibration when tightening for a particular wheel.
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Last edited by foosh; 06-22-2009 at 10:49 PM.. |
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06-22-2009, 10:34 PM | #16 | |
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google a video for wheel change DIY before you do it. it's not hard but one could easily make mistakes as well. |
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06-22-2009, 10:34 PM | #17 | |
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0239000P?mv=rr Make sure the car is on a flat surface. You can use wheel blocks on the other side to make sure the car doesn't roll.
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06-22-2009, 10:37 PM | #18 | |
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Aren't there some digital ones? How do they work? If they use a strain gauge, it would be hard to throw off their calibration...
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06-22-2009, 10:42 PM | #19 | |
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06-22-2009, 11:03 PM | #20 |
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But why exactly? (see my post #10 above). I don't need to adjust my wrench for loosening bolts.
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06-22-2009, 11:05 PM | #21 | |
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To me, it's not worth the risk of screwing up a quality torque wrench by using it to break bolts loose, given we don't know whether that is an "urban-myth" or not. Moreover, the more you use a torque wrench, the more likely it is to go out of calibration. Quality shops get them re-calibrated. I do know that, or so I am told.
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06-22-2009, 11:08 PM | #22 | |
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If you had changed the torque setting (lower) for a different application, you should need to adjust it for loosening if it "clicks" in both directions. If it were 100% accurate, and you hadn't touched it since you had torqued something, you should need to increase the setting to loosen a bolt.
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Last edited by foosh; 06-22-2009 at 11:44 PM.. |
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